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Red and White T3 Daily Driver

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Mellow Yellow 74, Aug 17, 2014.

  1. Mellow Yellow 74

    Mellow Yellow 74 Active Member

    Messages:
    813
    Location:
    Sydney
    I haven't posted on here for ages but since the last post I have done a few things:

    - Installed a VW Speedshop stainless exhaust. It gives noticeably more power up hills but is quote noisy and didn't stay "stainless" for long (yes I know stainless discolours etc)

    - Installed the Rocky Mountain Westy aluminium tank because the aftermarket plastic one started leaking after about a year.

    - Installed a new front heater blower because the old one seized up. What a fun job that is.

    The front suspension is starting to groan and wander so I have bought new bushings and am going to tackle this soon. After much research I went with Lemforder original style upper control arm bushes and Burley Motorsports urethane bushings for the lower control arm bushings (front and back), Febi rubber bushings for the radius rods and sway bar and Powerflex steering rack mounting bushes.

    Can anyone recommend somewhere in Sydney that knows how to do a T3 wheel alignment properly for when I complete this work?
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2018
    nils and Syncro27 like this.
  2. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,754
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    I use Paul at Tyresmart at Mortlake

    There ia another bloke that does good work st Tarren Point
     
  3. Mellow Yellow 74

    Mellow Yellow 74 Active Member

    Messages:
    813
    Location:
    Sydney
    Great thanks Barry, i did a search and the Taren Point place is called East Coast Suspensions so I will call them.

    I am waiting for a delivery of parts from Brickwerks - I only placed the order on Friday and according to the tracking they are already in Sydney after the following trip via UPS: UK - Germany - France - Philadelphia USA, Louisville USA - Hawaii - Sydney.
     
  4. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,617
    Location:
    Gosford
    Take the Wheel alignment specs from the Bentley with you otherwise you will get whatever they come up with, thats been my experience anyway. When I started taking the specs with me always get a good result.
     
    Dapom and Syncro27 like this.
  5. Mellow Yellow 74

    Mellow Yellow 74 Active Member

    Messages:
    813
    Location:
    Sydney
    Good call Phil
     
  6. Mellow Yellow 74

    Mellow Yellow 74 Active Member

    Messages:
    813
    Location:
    Sydney
    I installed the new suspension and steering bushings plus new upper ball joints, tie rod ends and steering rack boots - quite a big job. I got a front and rear wheel alignment done at East Coast suspensions - I gave them the specs from Bentley but noticed afterwards they did it slightly different. They reckon they have done heaps of T3's so hopefully it is ok.

    The only issue is the lower new control arm bushings are making some noise - I used the Burley Motorsports ones and he says not to grease the outside of the bushing so I didn't. The rear ones were a tight fit and seem to be ok but the front ones weren't quite as tight and must be moving slightly in the control arm bore. I might have to drop the lower control arm again and use silicone grease on the outside.

    I also installed new stainless coolant pipes, heater hoses and a new radiator - it turned out the old ones weren't too bad but the radiator and pipes had some external rust. I also installed Gowesty radiator baffles because mine were long gone - they aren't a great fit but better than nothing I guess. I had problems when refilling and bleeding the coolant system because nothing came out of the radiator bleeder so all the air in the system spewed back into the coolant tank.

    I used a dremel to make a slot in the bleeder bolt to try and make it bleed but still no air came out until the system reached full temperature and the pressure increased. My old radiator bled fine with the bleeder bolt loosened and I did it the same way with the new radiator but it didn't work the same. I am not sure why - maybe the old radiator had a taper thread in the bleeder and the new one doesn't?
     
  7. Mellow Yellow 74

    Mellow Yellow 74 Active Member

    Messages:
    813
    Location:
    Sydney
    It took a while for all of the air to bleed out of the system and caused the coolant overflow tank to spill a few times but eventually bled ok.

    An unexpected side effect of the stainless coolant pipes is that they radiate a lot mire heat that the original ones. This sounds good but is actually not great because it takes much longer for the engine to warm up before the thermostat opens.

    The lower control arm bushings and trailing arm bushings are becoming quite noisy so it looks like I will have to remove them and grease the outsides, which is massively annoying. Big waste of my time plus another $150 for a rear wheel alignment if I can’t mark the current settings some who will.

    Everyone on the Samba raves about how great stainless pipes and urethane bushings are, but if I knew what I know now I would have not have installed either of them.
     
  8. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,754
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    But there isn't an option to the stainless pipes?
    You can't get stock?
     
  9. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,879
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    Had a look at that first hand too. I have a heater fan and resistor set to replace in my caravelle but getting the heater unit out and apart is a hell of a job - they are well glued together and the unit top screws are a cow to get out.
     
    David H likes this.
  10. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,748
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    I also have a new blower sitting here in a box.

    It’s still in the box, for the same reason.......:D
     
    David H likes this.
  11. Mellow Yellow 74

    Mellow Yellow 74 Active Member

    Messages:
    813
    Location:
    Sydney
    If I knew the stainless steel was going to change the warm up time so much, the option was to just leave the steel ones in because they were in ok condition, a bit of rust at the engine end but I could have cleaned and painted.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2018
  12. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,617
    Location:
    Gosford
    I guess you could always Lagg the pipes. You had steel now you have stainless steel so I cant see the cooling effect of the pipes being much different, however a brand new radiator will greatly improve the cooling effect over a half clogged radiator. I have also done what you have done and not worried about the slow heat up but have noticed it is only in winter when I also have the heater radiator adding to the cooling effect. In fact I can watch the temp gauge drop when the heater is first turned on a warm engine. It gives a cool flush of coolant. The heater hoses and radiator hold quite a bit of coolant.
     
    David H likes this.
  13. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,879
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    I love those stainless steel pipes in my syncro. They work brilliantly with no rust coming through the system from them (at least) and my subie motor is very happy with them.
     
  14. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,754
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Dumb question #2,044

    What are "steel pipes"

    I thought the only options were
    1. the stoopid stock PVC? ones with the even stoopider steel inserts
    2. Stainless steel
     
  15. Mellow Yellow 74

    Mellow Yellow 74 Active Member

    Messages:
    813
    Location:
    Sydney
    Barry the early water cooled models had steel pipes which were smaller diameter than the later plastic ones.
     
  16. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,754
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Ahhhh................ you learn something new every day here

    Thanks
     
  17. Wattie

    Wattie Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    832
    Location:
    Mildura. Victoria. Australia.
    Mine too. :D
     
    Syncro27 likes this.
  18. Mellow Yellow 74

    Mellow Yellow 74 Active Member

    Messages:
    813
    Location:
    Sydney
    Does the Subaru engine have a bypass thermostat like the waterboxer? On the waterboxer the thermostat controls the flow back from the radiator rather than the flow to the radiator. So when the thermostat is closed there is nothing blocking the flow to the radiator and on mine the supply pipe now gets hot and gives off lots of heat even before the thermostat opens.
     

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