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Rust Inhibitor / Primer Questions

Discussion in 'Body' started by Peaches and cream, Apr 10, 2008.

  1. Peaches and cream

    Peaches and cream New Member

    Adelaide SA
    (Before we start - the Structural rust (back corners, battery tray, bulge panel is being cut and welded by a pro - NOT ME !)

    But.... Once my panels are sanded back.... to remove the crusty paint and surface rust spots.

    What is a good product to use that will prevent the re-appearence of rust ? (it will be a month or so before paint can go on)

    POR 15 doesnt sound like the best for painting over the top of....??

    I was always told that standard primer was porous and so no good at rust prevention ??

    Will Etch Primer do the trick ? (I thought that is for only on top of stripped bare metal)

    There is a product called "Rust fighter primer" .... that sounds like it wouldd do the trick, anyone had any experience.

    Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks a million.

  2. splitbus07

    splitbus07 New Member

    Sydney NSW

    i did not quite get this post, but have you thought of rust converting the meatle and then primering

    once you convert the rust and primer it theres a 99.9999% chacne that the rust wont come back

    My advice if ur gunna rust convert: Dont take short cuts and read the instuctions...


  3. JHB88

    JHB88 Member

    Ipswich, QLD
    Have a look here:

    I just finished off this post because I forgot the last 2 lessons!

    You don't need etch primers unless you are painting plastic or aluminium etc.

    You don't want to leave a car in primer for too long as it is not desinged for exposure.
    Maybe 2 weeks at the most.

    You just have to watch the solvent curing time and basiclly you can just keep painting.
  4. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    sunshine coast

    Right on most scores

    Quick answer is
    Rust converter ok under most paints except epoxy[adhesion problems]

    2 pac chromate etch good but apply according to instructions. Any primer and paint for top coats. Epoxy is more chemical and abrasion resistant. 2 pac poly u also good
    Dont like enamel or lac as not so resistant, but just a preference.

    Prefer penetrol as it has very good capillary action and gets into seams and remaining rust which u wont get at in batt area without blasting first
    Only problem is it is alkyd based so you will need to let it dry for a day or so and use a tie coat such as Sigma Rapid Prime which will go over alkyd but allow u to use any paint type over top.

    To clarify . Alkyd ,oil based, is like enamel. It will fry [crinkle/lift] if u use a paint with strong thinner type [Lac, GP thinners]over top
  5. Peaches and cream

    Peaches and cream New Member

    Adelaide SA
    Thankyou Col...

    Seal (Mrs PB) is a big fan of Penetrol..... do you roll it on ???


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