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Sliding Door (Will Not Pull In)

Discussion in 'Body' started by Sleeper, Oct 16, 2018.

  1. Sleeper

    Sleeper New Member

    Messages:
    21
    Location:
    Avoca Victoria
    Hi All,
    Hoping some one can help? I have a 72 Lowlight Crossover. The sliding door will go flush if i give it the old two hand slam. I have tried using the gentle method. I can get the door to slightly pull in when lifting the handle but the handle only goes to 45 degrees. On the mechanism the wear mark indicated that there is another 5mm of travel which makes me think the handle should go 90 degrees from the horizontal. I have tried adjusting the front plate which is attached to the B Pillar. All tracks have been cleaned and lubricated. New seals were done after the respray. The closing mechanism was working before the respray .
    Hopefully some one can give me an insight. I have trawled all the sliding door posts, watched the Youtube's and RTFM?
    Thanks in advance for any advise:)
     
  2. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    9,620
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Pull the door card off the inside and check the rod/latch mechanism....
    (Handle actuates the rear mechanism by means of a threaded rod that runs the length of the slider)
    Not sure why the setting would have changed from before but you might need to tweak the tension in the rod.
    Good luck, let us know how you go.
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
    David H likes this.
  3. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,883
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Does the door look correct fit all round..To close to back or front ,top or bottom adjustment.
    check make sure your rubber is in the right way around.
    Did you ever have a spacer on the front adjusting plate,as it might not be going over enough IE. the adjusting plate on the B pillar might need to come further out towards the back of the car,There is a spacer for this purpose.
    You might need to adjust back striker as well.
    As oldman has mentioned :rolleyes:you might have to tweak the tension in the rod. You should have one cable and one rod .
    One thing did happen to me when I got mine back from painter and it wasn't working. Is where the cable in the back of sliding door enters the front mechanism there should be a nylon block holding the cable in place in the mechanism, if that nylon block isn't in place you will have all sorts of problems,I did. I was lucky and found the block in the bag of loose bolts the painter didn't remember where he got them from.:eek:o_O
     
    David H likes this.
  4. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,180
    Location:
    newcastle
    I agree with Mark & Wayne. Check that & ...
    The handle only goes up/down 45 degrees;).
    New seal for what ever reason may be the culprit:oops:.
    Check the 'strike' on that rear catch ;). Sometimes the smallest movement of door changes how the back catch on the slider engages with the catch esp if rubber a bit thick.
    May need a new spring in the return mech or some packers under the rear latch to move it forward so the lug on the catch doesn't impede the latch mech:confused:.
    Some 'chalk' be your friend now to see which surfaces are contacting:cool: & where!
    Cheers
     
  5. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,180
    Location:
    newcastle
    So we are both answering this from the same spot Sleeper;).
    Both front & rear 'strike'. The gap needs to be right for both latches to engage:rolleyes:.
    Cheers
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2018
  6. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,883
    Location:
    Seven hills
    There are a lot of parts on a sliding door that needs to be right for it to work:) Front and back striker the front rollers at the bottom and height can be adjusted ,then you have the rear middle roller,nylon block and the adjustment where that all bolts to the sliding door.You have also adjustment in the top front as well to get the door laterally correct. Adjustment in the opening locking position as well.
     
  7. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,180
    Location:
    newcastle
    Stop confusing Sleeper with your knowledge Wayne:p. Let's bring him 'up to speed' slowly with the knowledge he needs;). One step at a time my friend:D.
    Cheers
     
  8. Sleeper

    Sleeper New Member

    Messages:
    21
    Location:
    Avoca Victoria
    Wow thanks for all your responses. Hopefully i will answer all the questions in the order that i have gone through the elimination process. As they say a picture says a thousand words. When i do the two hand slam you can see that the door closes quite well. If i go to close the door as i should i push the back so the front sticker engages but as you can see i can only get he handle to lift 45 degrees and will not go any further. I had a play with the metal adjuster rod. I wound it all the way to the left from its original position and it made no difference so i put it back to were it was originally as per the image. You can also see that the wear mark on the connecting rod into the mechanism and when i go to lift up the handle i still have a good 5mm of wear mark which is making me think it was the front striker. I moved it up, then across and found that when i did that i could not push the back of the door closed. There is a shimmering in there. I will have a try at moving the back striker. As a side note i can lock the door with the key but not the latch inside the bus IMG_1137.jpg IMG_1138.jpg IMG_1134.jpg IMG_1135.jpg IMG_1136.jpg
     
  9. 77/kombi/surfer

    77/kombi/surfer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,867
    Location:
    Budgewoi N.S.W. AUSTRALIA
    Have you tried lifting the chrome door handle right up when you close the door? it pulls the back edge of the door right in and locks it in position.
    That's why you have that pressing in the door were the handle is.
    Ive show plenty of people who have lowlights the same thing.
    If you still have the shiny sticker on top of your steering colum that's what its showing you on lowlights only.
    cheers
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2018
    David H likes this.
  10. Sleeper

    Sleeper New Member

    Messages:
    21
    Location:
    Avoca Victoria
    Hi Kombi /Surfer i can only get the handle up 45 degrees. I moved the back sticker plate and found that it did not make any difference the the handle. When i had the door completely using the two hand slam i noticed that the handle still does not move any higher that the picture. Oh well looks like it will be a case of removing the handle and the locking mechanism :(. I was really trying to avoid this last resort. Thanks for the input :):)
     
  11. 77/kombi/surfer

    77/kombi/surfer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,867
    Location:
    Budgewoi N.S.W. AUSTRALIA
    O.k. then ,try this .
    on picture number 4 it shows the two parallel rods linked to the front handle.
    On the top cable undo the locking nut an wind the longer one back a few turns .
    This should loosen up the rear locking a allow adjustment.
    Looks like its been adjusted before by its position.
     
  12. Sleeper

    Sleeper New Member

    Messages:
    21
    Location:
    Avoca Victoria
    Thanks' again. I originally started there. I had moved the longer one to the left and it still did not change. Curious though; when you say it "Should loosen up the rear locking and allow adjustment" i am not sure what you mean. Are you talking about adjusting the rear sticker. Soooo close o_O
     
  13. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,180
    Location:
    newcastle
    Not striker plate position. Doesn't change that engagement. About the cable interaction with the lock & handle position re rear striker;).
    You know this stuff 77/kombi/surfer:). Explain again for us both;).
    Cheers
     
  14. 77/kombi/surfer

    77/kombi/surfer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,867
    Location:
    Budgewoi N.S.W. AUSTRALIA
    Its a learning curve thats a trial an error experience more than knowing alot David.
    Been a while since ive fixed the same door issue so im just guiding ideas.
    That striker plate in the picture stays in a fixed position . You can adjust it an they do have shim packers behind them as well from factory.
    Adjusting the cable adjusts the timing for the opening of the locking jaws to open an close an its postion.
    Have you tried the bottom cable adjustment yet?
    Its kind of hard to explain without being there in person.
     
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  15. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,180
    Location:
    newcastle
    Thanks 77. I've made it my mission to understand these door mechs & your comment
    Makes me think more about what Wayne & I have posted. So we went with 'square in the frame & lining up latches height wise & width wise.
    So now to include latch timing?
    Is that peculiar to that year (lowie) model? Handle position doesn't change my 76 close mech. Throw it & stow it!!!
    Just slide & close ...no handle bit needed. So what changed between these years?
    Cheers
     
  16. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,883
    Location:
    Seven hills
    He is right it is a trial an error,to get it to work correctly and to diagnoses whats wrong isn't that easy without being there, I have to take a photo of the spare one I got ,I'm still sure there is a nylon block missing ,It looks like it's doing nothing but I'm sure it helps keep the cable tension when the handle is lifted.Well that's what sort of problem I had with mine.

    The earlier models are different in the way the doors shut ,with lifting the handle to bring the rear of sliding door to shut. The earlier models had to rods in the door they then changed around 71-72 to one cable one rod and not 100% but I think they changed to two cables some time after that.
    The inside locking mechanism has been moved or changed as well as the location of the inner door handle. What actually changed with inside the front mechanism I don't know .
    The most obvious change is that the locking mechanism on the outside is separate to the handle,where the earlier models the lock was in the handle.[/QUOTE]
     
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