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Sopru Camper Roof Removal

Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by Elsie 76, Mar 27, 2016.

  1. Elsie 76

    Elsie 76 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    242
    Location:
    Caves Beach
    Hi Fellow KC Members. I am about to start my restoration of my '76 Bay and would like to know any tips on removing the fibreglass pop-top completely before starting on the body work. The body is in very good original condition but needs some TLC, the pop-top is in good condition also, but needs a repaint and minor repair, eventually the canvas replaced and hood lining. I'm also interested in any hints and/or advice on how best to reinstall the pop-top when finished? Thanks
     
  2. chayle

    chayle Active Member

    Messages:
    242
    Location:
    Crestmead
    Not sure about the sopru tops but with my camper I just drilled out the rivits and uses a heat gun to loosen the glue and a scraper to pop it off.. definitely handy if you got a few people buy doable on your own just takes some architectural genius hahaha but do able
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2016
  3. tomhic

    tomhic Active Member

    Messages:
    349
    Location:
    Glenelg Nth, SA
    My Sopru poptop was fixed in place with self tappers from the outside and wood screws from the inside, it then lifted off (no adhesive). Best to have two to lift it off but I was on my own so lifted each end and placed a piece of wood from side to side across the hole to rest the poptop on. I then used ratchet tie down straps placed each end and suspended from the carport roof to raise the top bit by bit. Then push the kombi from underneath and lower top to ground. Installation is just the reverse procedure.

    tom
     
  4. Elsie 76

    Elsie 76 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    242
    Location:
    Caves Beach
    Thanks chayle, the glue thing was a concern for me. I appreciate the advice.
     
  5. Elsie 76

    Elsie 76 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    242
    Location:
    Caves Beach
    Thanks Tom, great advice with yours being a Sopru. Where abouts were the wood screws? Under the hood lining or on top? Really like your inguinuity on removing the whole section on your own. Fortunately, I will have a few hands around to help. Another question, when you did the reinstall did you change anything from original like more fasteners or larger bolts? Craig
     
  6. tomhic

    tomhic Active Member

    Messages:
    349
    Location:
    Glenelg Nth, SA
    From memory the wood screws were under the lining. I replaced all the self tappers with larger stainless steel ones. I also replaced the tie down straps with stronger ones and replaced the lining with wood panels made by Tony from Kombi Cabinets (see photo). Before putting the top back on I painted the roof with 3 coats of POR 15 then primed and painted it. I did not use any sealer or Sikaflex as I thought it might trap any water that made its way in.

    tom

    PC110011.jpg
     
  7. Elsie 76

    Elsie 76 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    242
    Location:
    Caves Beach
    Thanks Tom, I appreciate the heads up in particular the comment on a sealer or Sikaflex. Your bus looks brilliant as does the cabinetry and finish. Thanks so much for your help. Craig
     
  8. tomhic

    tomhic Active Member

    Messages:
    349
    Location:
    Glenelg Nth, SA
    You're welcome Craig; I imagine you may get more comment when other members get back from Forbes.

    tom
     
  9. Muso Em

    Muso Em New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Brisbane
    This is a great thread - I'm just embarking on pop-top repairs! I've got a roof (see pic) and need to replace the cross-lifters, add a hatch lid and purchase seals. Then I need to work out some way to transport it to my Kombi (at the panel beaters). They're going to repaint it while doing the van, and tend to those spots that need some minor repairs. Although, if there's any tips on DIY fibreglass repairs that could be great!

    Tom - did you attach any seals to the receiver when you put it back on your roof? I'm looking at purchasing this seal for the top section and wondering if I should be getting one for the bottom too. http://www.justkampers.com.au/8-5m-pop-top-seal-for-dormobiles-devon-moonrakers.html
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,570
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Chuck up a couple of photos of areas needing repair.
    Can run you thru process.

    Do you want a smooth or textured finish?
     
  11. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,694
    Location:
    newcastle
  12. tomhic

    tomhic Active Member

    Messages:
    349
    Location:
    Glenelg Nth, SA
    Couldn't remember so just had a look. I cleaned and refitted the beading that was already fitted to the front and rear between the pop top and the kombi roof. It looks like beetle fender beading.

    cheers, tom
     
  13. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,694
    Location:
    newcastle
    Front & rear base rubbers are 'pinch welds' from Clarke Rubber. Various sizes widths/rounds available.
    Cheers,
    David H
     
  14. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,694
    Location:
    newcastle
    Hi Muso Em,
    It's a pinch weld from Clarke Rubber. Various base widths/curve rolls available.
    A further point on Sopru roofs with the horizontal bit that sits into the gutter. Second Kombi rotted out gutter. No drying. (First Sopru died at telepole). Third Kombi got the horizontal gutter bits cut off it 29 years ago. Does leave you with 'floppy sides' as it doesn't sit on a 'base' (the gutter) to support the sides.. ... but does keep gutters clear so they may dry out & work!. Floppy sides dealt with by white wedges from Bunnings locked in to the gutter bead (not sole). Absolutely no gutter rust at all. Top or bottom but it's a 76 & I reckon Aussie steel & I've given it a chance by using fish oil every few years as I can get to the gutters with that bit removed. I see other 76's that don't have this mod & gutter is rusted!
    Cheers,
    David H
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2016

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