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Starting my restoration of a 1975 DC - Bowie

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by 75DCResto, Oct 21, 2017.

  1. deeksy62

    deeksy62 Active Member

    Messages:
    632
    Location:
    Sawtell
    I'd love to know if anyone has written a step by step document on how to restore a dual cab 1975 kombi :)[/QUOTE]

    Not a dual cab, but a Kombi at least, it is a good read anyway. Has provided inspiration for me, my kombi is no where near as bad as the one restored in the book. Have to look for the silver lining sometimes. good luck with the resto!!

    [​IMG]
     
  2. 75DCResto

    75DCResto New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Clifton Hill, Victoria
    Yeah planning for the worst! The backs of the dual cabs are generally pretty swiss cheese with rust unless it has had a very kind life out of the rain. The tray bed and rear floor are full of holes, gates are cactus as well, the rear wheel arches look okay but I am assured by the guy who is doing the body work they are always rusted inside the panel where the seam is in the wheel arch. Anyway we will see, I have seen some examples of some early splitties being rebuilt from about 80-90% replacement panels!
     
  3. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,921
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Considerable bank balance of green panels on the floor. :D

    Interested in details of dipping process.
    Assume stripper then acid.
    HCl is aggressive so a mix of phosphoric?
    Any temporary coating to hold the surface while work proceeds ?

    Like your approach. Should turn out a long lasting resto.
     
  4. 75DCResto

    75DCResto New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Clifton Hill, Victoria
    Yes those green panels don't come cheap! SurfBus would be the one to talk to about this particular dipping process in terms of the chemicals used. I know its a two stage process with the second stage being some sort of phosphate based coating that prevents oxidation of the bare metal. Cost wise its probably 20-30%% more than sandblasting based on the quotes I got.
     
  5. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,073
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Do check your seat to the car as there is two types of fixings of the 2/3 seat at the back. My 76 SC Ute has one style and my 72 DC Ute has the other style. I also have two 2/3 front seats with headrests and its the earlier style .Take photos to show what style you have.
    Your rear door should have rear 1/4 windows the same as the drivers rear side. The best option if you want one piece for the door is to get some glass company to make the glass and toughen the glass. You could use the perspex as a template.
    Or you need to get a 1/4 window and the other fixed half glass for the door.
    Regards Wayne
     
    David H likes this.
  6. shaven

    shaven Active Member

    Build the internals with checker-plate.
     
  7. Poptop

    Poptop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    774
    Location:
    Clifton Hill, Victoria
  8. 75DCResto

    75DCResto New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Clifton Hill, Victoria
    Some photos of the ute being dipped. Its about halfway through the entire dipping process. The first step removes the old paint and body filler, then it goes into another tank to remove the rust. Nothing too unexpected yet, bit of bog down low in the sides which I knew about, floor has holes in the usual spots and the rear tray is caput. Will no doubt unearth some more one the rust is removed.


    Resized_20180725_092607.jpeg Resized_20180801_144032.jpeg Resized_20180801_144042.jpeg Resized_20180725_092544.jpeg Resized_20180725_092515.jpeg
     
  9. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,073
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Photos don't show it all,bit it doesn't look to bad rust panel damage wise,you may tell us otherwise.
     
  10. OSF

    OSF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Sutherland NSW
    Loving the fact you are doing something a little different and going down the dipping path instead of blasting.
     
  11. 75DCResto

    75DCResto New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Clifton Hill, Victoria
    I had a few questions about colours. I found this website - http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorco...kswagen&model=VW Bus&con=mo&year=1975&rows=50

    I want to repaint the ute in a colour that would have been available, is this list trustworthy, or is there some other source anyone could recommend. I also wondered what peoples thoughts were on going with a white roof, could that have been an original pain option on a aussie 1975 kombi ute?

    The colour it had looked very much like Chrome Yellow on that list, although it had definately had a paint job at some point in its life.
     
  12. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,073
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Most paint websites that are listed are normally overseas colour charts (ie USA) not Australian colours.:( some may be similar or the same colour but with different names or shades:confused:. The first list is from VW club in Sydney website. The colour chart is one of mine that are Australian colours that where used by Volkswagen using Dulux(Dulon) paints. Some colour charts don't have a chip if they where used in earlier years ,which they are listed in the middle of the chart under exterior colours. (I'll give them if you need them)The only colour I can see that isn't on the chart that should be is Antarctica White.:rolleyes::oops:
    I don't think white roof was used on commercial vehicles like Utes.:( They where used on microbuses.:) Having a white roof is a personal touch of your own. :DAs others will say "it is your bus do what you like to it"o_O or along them lines.;)
    Personally I don't like white roofs on DC Ute ,As mine 72 Dc had a white roof and half the reason why it is getting a full resto know is because of a white roof. Second reason is nearly everyone has one done with a white roof.o_O:( (It is the norm) The last reason is a friend has a Nissan blue bird:eek: ,in metallic blue. It had rust in the roof .:eek:He had it fixed:) but didn't what to pay extra for a metallic blue roof o_Oso went the cheaper option (white roof ) on a metallic blue car . It looked tacky and cheap:eek:. My $2.10 cents worth including g.s.t. :rolleyes:As mentioned in the quote above YOUR CAR do what you want to it:rolleyes:. You want see it from my place:p but i'll still like to see it as it's a DC Ute:D.

    Antarctica White 12330 911
    Blue Green Metallic 30005 CLR625
    Bronco Brown 17868 CLR205
    Copper Metallic 30004 CLR206
    Harbour Blue (Taubmans) S5-4304 CLR530
    Maya Metallic 17418 CLR723
    Quartz Metallic 17294 CLR030
    1975 1976.jpg
     
    David H likes this.
  13. OSF

    OSF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Sutherland NSW
    Here's the link to the VW Club Sydney - Paint Colours reference that Wayne was talking about. Just in case you decide to go with something from a different year.
    http://www.clubvw.org.au/vwpaint

    My thoughts/comments when it comes to VW colours (and a quick look at my resto thread will show you I spent a fair bit of time working through this when I was trying to decide on a colour for my DC):
    • Wayne is the master - seriously, he has charts and charts and charts of the things and knows what he's talking about;
    • I'm also petty sure the commercial vehicles all originally came in one colour only (i.e. no white roof or two-tone);
    • I think utes actually look good with a white roof (esp if the body is a darker colour), but I don't like them in two-tone to the waistline;
    • Wayne will be able to give you a formula for a colour if you decide on one you like;
    • The formula may not actually help you though (even if your paint shop has old charts and conversion info), as modern paints and tints are totally different to what they used back then;
    • You can get a formula developed in modern paint for the original colours through the Dulux Lab in Melbourne;
    • By far the quickest way to get a colour you like is find one you like and take it to your painter to match;
    • If your painter is good and you can get him to care, he should (in conjunction with the local paint shop) be able to match the colour for you to a sample you provide and develop a code for you (if you want/need this). Note: This is a very time consuming process however (weighing every single little change made when mixing/matching the paint) and not something most painters are all that happy to do. Matching paint is what they do and no problem there, but ask them to weigh and record every little change they make when doing so doesn't always get the best reaction in my experience. Personally I love applying Science to Art, but getting and Artist to work like a Scientist can be a challenge;
    • It's yours to do with what you want so from this point of view there is no right or wrong way to do it;
    • Good luck.
     
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  14. Poptop

    Poptop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    774
    Location:
    Clifton Hill, Victoria
    Mines Antarctica white and the roof is white!
     
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  15. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,073
    Location:
    Seven hills
    ha ha Good one Poptop :):D
     
  16. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,555
    Location:
    newcastle
    No confusion with that Poptop;). Cheers
     
  17. Poptop

    Poptop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    774
    Location:
    Clifton Hill, Victoria
    Hi Brenton
    Any updates.
     
  18. 75DCResto

    75DCResto New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Clifton Hill, Victoria
    Hi Guys,

    Sorry haven't done an update for a while I've been away for work and we have been waiting on parts to arrive so it has just been sitting around for the last little while.

    So Paul at Autoshape is now getting stuck into it, I've added some of the photos showing the bits of floor and tray that are getting replaced/repaired. Hes putting the photos up on his facebook page as work progresses so would recommend checking it out if you like that sort of thing, he's working on a few other cool splits and other assorted cool cars as well.

    Once it was dipped we uncovered all sorts of horror like previous repairs but not a lot of extra rust that wasn't already known about, he has done several bay dual cabs and found that they rust in very consistent places as you all know. Mine did have a few hilariously bad bog jobs.

    Anyway should have some more regular updates as work progresses and bank balance decreases.

    Cheers

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  19. OSF

    OSF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Sutherland NSW
    Based on what I've seen before, I think you are in good hands with Paul at Autoshape. I'm looking forward to the progress. Keep the pics coming.
     
  20. slobus

    slobus Member

    Messages:
    189
    Location:
    NW Tassie
    Having recently replaced the floor on my ute I found when it came to trial fit the rear seat pedestal that there were two plates that sat about even with the floor ribs. The pedestal sat on this plate and it raised the front of the pedestal by a few millimetres. Not a huge issue, but the wing nuts on the pedestal don't sit down as far on the body brackets. Mine was quite an old reproduction floor purchased 10 years ago, yours might be better quality and not have the plates?
    Goodluck with your resto!
     
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