1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Steering Box assessing wear

Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by Doob, Jun 12, 2021.

  1. Doob

    Doob Member

    Messages:
    52
    Location:
    Perth
    I know there have been a number of previous posts about steering boxes, but I am hoping someone can offer advice on how to assess the wear, and what is considered acceptable?

    I have a 1971 Kombi, with the steering box removed, and on my work bench.

    The box part number is 214 415 049F (I think). I have not disassembled the box but from an external visual inspection there are no oil leaks and there is no obvious play in shaft bearings. I have adjusted the worm shaft torque at centre position to approximately ~ 8 inch-lbs (as per Bentley Manual Chapter 2 Section 9.9 page 33).

    There is a small amount of rotational play in the peg shaft when off centre. I estimate this to be approximately 0.2 degrees (~12’ mins) of shaft rotational play. (Measured using a dial gauge at the end of the pitman arm – see attached photo). There is no rotational play in the peg shaft when the worm shaft is in the central position.

    Is this normal/acceptable? Can anyone offer comments on how to assess steering box wear and what is considered acceptable?

    Does anyone have any update on who can currently service & repair these steering boxes?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,947
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    According to what you've posted, the steering box is in good condition
    It is normal for the box to have play away from centre from new
    That is why it is important to have the box centralised when the front wheels are straight ahead.
    if the worm shaft feels graty when you turn it, it is an indication the angular ball bearings are corroded from water entry
    the adjustment screw should be above the locknut

    79 Bay, worm and roller steering box repair | KombiClub Australia Forums

    Reconditioned steering box (72 -79) | KombiClub Australia Forums
     
  3. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,947
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Just realised you have a cast iron housing type box
    same comments go.

    The 2 links aren't useful to you
     
    Elsie 76 likes this.
  4. Doob

    Doob Member

    Messages:
    52
    Location:
    Perth
    Many thanks for the prompt reply.
    Yes - mine is a cast iron housing - I assume it is the original - 1971 vintage.
    When off centre the worm shaft turns freely - no 'graty' feeling.
    The adjustment screw remains above the locknut by about 3 threads - see photo.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,743
    Location:
    Seven hills
    I've brought components to rebuild one of these boxes, the only components they don't make (yet) is the RHD worm drive and the individual taper rollers that go around the peg. Everything else I've sourced. Even when you build one it might not completely fix all your problems as the worm drive is still worn.
     
  6. Doob

    Doob Member

    Messages:
    52
    Location:
    Perth
    Thanks Wayne - are you happy with the quality of the components you got for the box ?
    Where did you get them from?
     
  7. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,743
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Most components seem good but the pegs I'm not happy with the two pegs I've brought. Both of them need to be modified to make them work.
    One has the thread not cut deep enough and also there is a flat section on one side of the thread section, to stop the washer and lock nut from turning isn't cut deep enough either stopping the washers from sitting flat against the section that would hold the taper bearings in place. The other peg has the same problem where the flat section not deep enough like the other peg. Easy to fix with the grinder but to me these shouldn't need to be done.
    I've also brought the die to cut the thread on the other one but yet to work out how to do it.
    One is from Custom and commercial in England and the other is from Alan Schofields from England and some also come from Das resto in Australia
    The out put shaft from Alan Schofields looks really good and they have made it 0.1 mm bigger so you have to ream your box out.
     
  8. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,947
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Wayne
    Don't grind or run a die down the peg
    I think it's supposed to be like that
    Once the tapered rollers are loaded into the peg and arm they hold the top part away from the bottom part of the peg
    This allows a slight preload by adjusting the nut and bending the lock tab over.
     
  9. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,743
    Location:
    Seven hills
    I was comparing the new pegs to an original and measure different in those few spots that I mentioned,that why I thought it needed to be done.
     

Share This Page