Step by step engine removal

Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by kombi, May 7, 2007.

  1. kombi

    kombi Member

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Gday all just woundering if there is a post on here that has a step by step for removing an engine for a bay. Iv herd its quite an easy engine to drop out but as iv only ever removed engines from bonnets and up out of the car, just woundering if there was some guidence. cheers chris:)
     
  2. Van Housing

    Van Housing Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,365
    Location:
    Williamstown Vic
  3. kombimatt

    kombimatt Active Member

    Messages:
    1,768
    Location:
    Dodges Ferry, TAS
    Great post thanks Woz.

    Half inspired to give it a go with Mervyn.

    Matt
     
  4. Split 1

    Split 1 New Member

    Messages:
    7,037
    Location:
    Adelaide
    It is easy, I gave Zuespig instructions over the phone and he whipped his out ( engine that is)
    I can see Big Dave laughing at this.

    Dave
     
  5. ModelJets

    ModelJets Active Member

    Messages:
    1,264
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Extraction

    Hi kombi
    I have just done this job and found it tough. mainly because I'm not a mechanics a@#hole. Mine is an 1800 flat motor and this is what I did. Raise the rear of you kombi on car stands till your back wheels just leave the ground. This is enough for clearence when you extract the motor. Remove the battery terminal wires. Remove the rear tinware, take off the air cleaner and tubes to carbies. Remove the accelerator cable, heater cables and the heater tubes and the fuel tube from the fuel pump while you are upside down under there. Also disconect the red wire from the starter motor, it goes from the alternater. I removed the rear bumper and tow bar. Dissconect the wiring that runs from the alternator to the regulator and also to the coil then the reversing wire that has a fuse on it. I tagged the wires with masking tape folding back on itself and wrote where the wires came from (mainly because some dick had butchered the wires up) I will get around to replacing them one day. Remove the 2 upper engine mount bolts on the bell housing (bit hard to get to but persist, you will get them). I have the use of a big floor trolley jack so i placed it under the oil strainer cover plate which is a good balance point and raised the jack to just give some pressure under the motor. Then I removed the 2 lower engine bolts on the bell housing and seperated the rear engine support from the mainframe (support comes out with the motor). I chocked up the back of the gear box with timber to support it when I drew the motor out. Drag the motor rearwards until it nearly touches the back section of the engine bay and clear of the clutch spindle. Tilt the back of the engine down while your mate lowers the jack. when the jack is flat so is your motor and can then be rolled out ontop of the jack. Mate, I am no mechanic but this is how I did it and it worked fine. Hope I didn't forget anything but you will check if there is anything connected before you extract. Best of luck. Dean
     
  6. StevieVW

    StevieVW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,473
    Location:
    Somerset, Tasmania
    If it's a type one engine it's dead simple. (i haven't done any up rights so i won't comment on them.)


    This is for my 69 beetle but should be the same as for your bus if it's a type one motor.

    From memory:

    1. Disconect your battery negaitive(earth strap).
    2. Disconnect the wires on the alt/gen-erator and LABEL THEM.
    2a. Remove the fuell line from underneath where the fuel line where it comes out of the chassis.
    3. Undo your throttle cable. Push it back throug so it wont get caught up.
    3a. Jack up the kombi and put the kombi on jack stands.
    4. Undo the two bottom nuts that are at the bottom of the trans (they're usually hidden by a lot of crud)
    5. Get a piece of 4x2 thats long enough to go the width of the sump so your jack won't damage the sump.
    6. Now that you've got your jack taking a bit of strain from the engine reach around behind the fan shround and undo the two nuts, they're a real pain to get out on bug's bus's i don't know about.
    7. When you get these off store them safely with anything else you took off.
    8. Pull the engine backwards so the motor parts with the trans. Pull back with the jack back by the handle and lower it down as you come making sure nothing is still connected.
    9. Tilt it back for a beetle and lower it (a bus engine should just about drop down).
    10. Pull the motor backward our from under the bus on the trolley jack.

    Just get a verification on what i've said before you rush in and do anything.
     
  7. StevieVW

    StevieVW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,473
    Location:
    Somerset, Tasmania
    All that typing when i could have went and found a stite with that on it already.
     
  8. Purple Martin

    Purple Martin New Member

    Messages:
    118
    Location:
    Canberra
    That's a great page, but... you don't need to remove the starter motor ;)



    Some other little hints I learned when removing a 2-litre engine...

    There are a total of 8 bolts holding the engine in place (once you've got all the wires, cables, hoses etc disconnected): two at each end of the crossmember, two at the bottom of the bellhousing (go under the kombi to reach the nuts), and two at the top of the bellhousing (lean all the way into the engine bay to reach these nuts).

    The engine comes away from the bellhousing really easily. If it's not moving, you've missed a couple of bolts.

    The books say to support the tranny, but that's not necessary because it has its own supporting bolts at the rear (above the bellhousing) which attach it to the body and prevent it sagging.

    Because the tranny won't sag, there are only two movements needed to get the engine out: straight back as far as it'll go, then straight down.
     
  9. paul

    paul Member

    Messages:
    217
    Location:
    Epping, Melbourne
    Hi Chris.
    Set a date and I am sure some of the locals should be able to come and give you a hand. I've done it and it's not too hard, just depends on how you want to go about it, ie engine only or engine and gearbox together. If you do them both together you don't need to pull tinware but you do need to disconnect the drive shafts. It also depends on the year as the early bays and splits have a removable rear valance which makes the job so much easier but don't have the top hatch which makes it harder :) Go figure. Seriously though, if you want a hand I will be there to help out as long as I am not working and we will have it out in an hour or two.
    All the best.
    Paul.
     
  10. Van Housing

    Van Housing Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,365
    Location:
    Williamstown Vic
    Hey Chris, count me in too... I can bring some ramps, stands and a floor jack... Maybe the Sat after next?

    Does your 79 have an 1800 or 2litre?
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2007
  11. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,126
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Just been though it and found the ratwell info very helpful. Was lucky and had a mate who done it heaps of times do most of the work I just apprentice :)
     
  12. kombi

    kombi Member

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Yeh sounds good guys i have work on a saturday till about 1 or so. I dont have a trolly jack so that would be a great help. PM me your deatails VanHousing or anyone else that would like to help and well arrange a day to whip her out. Ye its a 2lt aswell
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2007
  13. Gordon D

    Gordon D Active Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Love this forum and finding these tips as I embark on my first solo engine removal. One tip is to remember that Ratwell is for left-hooker buses. Took me a good ten minutes to cotton onto that while looking for something on the "driver side" o_O:rolleyes::D
     
  14. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    878
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    The engine removal process isnt hard at all... I used an ATV jack to lower it down... however even then I found balancing the engine on the way down (and back in) the most difficult part. Good to have someone else there to help you keep an eye on everything, to check if you're snagged on anything and to help balance the engine on the way down.
    All that said - it's surprisingly easy to remove, once you've disconnected everything. Dont forget to label everything and where it's supposed to go once it's back in!
     
    Gordon D likes this.

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