Straightening an A pillar??

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by mr happy, Jan 7, 2018.

  1. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,591
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Pretty good in there.
    A cold chisel and hammer is handy to work out wrinkles and rework folds etc.
     
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  2. mr happy

    mr happy Member

    Messages:
    87
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Other than the obvious metal distortion, only very minor surface rust so will remove and hit it with some weld through and a good coat of something to keep it protected. Got various clamps and a few hammers and dollies to try and straighten things up, bit of a novice right now but learning as i go,

    Mr h
     
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  3. gazman

    gazman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,757
    Location:
    Perth WA
    Good work so far :)
     
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  4. mr happy

    mr happy Member

    Messages:
    87
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Ok peeps,
    With a mixture of wooden bracing, bottle jack and various hammers ranging from joke to sledge i'm very close to aligning alfies offside cab door / a pillar. I still need around a mil or 2 movement forward and down for the passenger door to have an almost identical fit to the drivers door. I've spent a huge amount of time getting it to this point and was thinking 'Can i do the final touch with the use of shims around the hinges and perhaps even squaring off of the hinge holes (late bay) to get that last little drop i'm after to make the alignment match on both sides?'
    Has any body else done any hinge alterations to get the alignment ideal?
    Is my idea of shimming / alteration acceptable as i feel i have got to the point where i'm chasing my tail to get that final precision alignment without venturing down these lines?
    Let me know your thoughts, i feel so near yet so far!!
     
  5. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,591
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Go for a few minor mods.
    Maybe a wack on the mounting plates or heave on the door if that helps.
    Factory wasn't perfect. No guarantee the drivers door is perfect.
    A block of wood on floor at base of pillar and sledge hammer may drop the pillar ? Check top andvbottom for any slight distortions , although unlikely by now.

    Main thing is the lines are constant on each face and appear reasonable.
    Door latches can engage accurately.
    And front skin dry fits ok with good lines.
    Windscreen will fit ok.
    Check both.

    Can only see one side at a time. :D
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2018
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  6. gazman

    gazman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,757
    Location:
    Perth WA
    Yep, Col summed it up! I've often realigned doors by opening them slightly, grabbing the bottom corner and pulling up Hulk-style (never turned green though...) until it shuts properly...
     
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  7. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,761
    Location:
    newcastle
    Know nothing of panel beating but admire your tenacity & work so far;). I'd refit door & start to chase movement in regard to lock plate connection. If the door catches the lock plate I'd call that a win & walk away:D. My LH door on my 76 needs shims & expanded screw cage holes under the lock plate to move it froward/right position & my A has never moved:oops:
    .
    Seems pillar down (optomistic but agree with Cbus option) or latch up if frame position okay. There seems to be some funny door base things from 75/6 models as the door base rear, both sides, sat out from the wheel arch. In DanSa thread.
    Cheers
     
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  8. mr happy

    mr happy Member

    Messages:
    87
    Location:
    Brisbane
    [QUOTE="David H, post: 626337, member: 9159]
    Seems pillar down (optomistic but agree with Cbus option) or latch up if frame position okay. There seems to be some funny door base things from 75/6 models as the door base rear, both sides, sat out from the wheel arch. In DanSa thread.
    Cheers[/QUOTE]

    Front edge of door is slightly high so pillar down is what i really need although i do think its wishful thinking. Was thinking if i square out the holes on the a pillar hinges and shim between these and the door hinges i'll be able to get the fit almost spot on. Just feels a little bit wrong to elongate the hinge plate to acheive best fit. I'm a little bit finicky and probably need to get over that because as you guys have already mentioned the factory finish was not always great!!
    Will try and post some pics when i get a chance,

    Cheers for your input,

    Mr h
     
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  9. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,761
    Location:
    newcastle
    Nah..done that big time on the LH front rear catcher (not hinge plate). They weren't perfect ex factory & despite your wish it will never be;) but give it a 'red hot go' if that's what you want:p. 'Bout time to talk of Kombi ethos;). Close enough to the kombi groove is good:D. Relax the 1 mm:cool:.
    Cheers
     
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  10. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,832
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Bays wern’t manufactured with the robotic precision like the next generations of Kombis.

    Gotta smack them into shape to equal something similar to what they were, when they left the factory.....;)
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2018
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  11. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,761
    Location:
    newcastle
    Some CKD's so assembled in Aust. I like the Aust approach as it does fit the 'groove' ethos. It's close & I'll be there whenever/sometime/soon/Tuesday 12th. Not me but I love the laid back bit & do my best pretend;) as the builder in Aust did;).
    Cheers
     

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