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SunnyJim Lowlight Restoration

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by SunnyJim, Jun 16, 2009.

  1. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,735
    Location:
    Goulburn
    I just dug my Bentley out for a Squiz I'm thinking they are referring to what I was calling anti squeal shims but just looking at the orientation of your pistons I would say they need a bit of a spin. The backing plates /shims in mine have a cutout which line up with the shape of the piston face.

    I could be wrong here but My understating is that the piston does not push square on the pad hence the semicircular face because as the wheel rotates it "pulls" the pad in between the disc and the piston if that makes sense so it needs more pressure on the trailing edge of the pad to create a more uniform pressure on the disc.
     
  2. SunnyJim

    SunnyJim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,401
    Location:
    carindale Brisbane
    Bernie
    Yes i think you are saying the same thing as Bentley.

    Do you think this would be the reason for the bus pulling to the right? The rust mark at the outer of the left disc clearly shows only 2/3 of the brake pad has been pressing against the disc.
    The disc doesnt seem to have any grooves. As a result it seems to me it would not need machining.
    I don't want to go off on a wild goose chase.
     
  3. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,735
    Location:
    Goulburn
    If your not getting enough pad pushing on the disc on the left than it's not going to stop as well as the right so you will pull to the right.

    The rust band also lines up nicely with the cut out in the face of the piston that needs to be rotated around.

    I'd need to check but I'd say it needs to be at the leading edge. So if you had a mark on your disc as you rotated the wheel forward the mark would travel past the cut out first.

    I'll try and pull one out tomorrow and have a look which way it goes
     
  4. SunnyJim

    SunnyJim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,401
    Location:
    carindale Brisbane
    Well the problem solved by buying a brand new caliper, complete with new pads pistons and new piston plates.

    Theoretically once i did this i should also do the right side but for now if stops straight and on a dime.
     
    Syncro27 likes this.
  5. SunnyJim

    SunnyJim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,401
    Location:
    carindale Brisbane
    Braided anyone?
    No, I'm not talking about getting yer hair done on kuta beach.
    I mean has anyone replaced the rubber brake hoses with braided steel ones?

    Do they make a difference ?
     
    Syncro27 likes this.
  6. DanSA

    DanSA Active Member

    Messages:
    486
    Location:
    Adelaide Hills
    Used them on fast cars before for track work etc, less of a need on a Kombi really.
    They are meant to prevent any expansion in the line to give more accurate pedal feel, consistency etc, whilst also affording a bit more protection. Be careful to ensure they are ADR compliant tho. Usually would uprated fluid to one with a higher boiling point and some more aggressive pads - however not really needed on a Kombi methinks..
    OEM FTW.
     
    Syncro27 likes this.
  7. SunnyJim

    SunnyJim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,401
    Location:
    carindale Brisbane
    Dan
    Yeah that is what i was thinking but don't have any direct experience .

    However on a lighter note, the president of the usa also has no prior experience :D
     
    Pomboy64, David H and Syncro27 like this.
  8. SunnyJim

    SunnyJim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,401
    Location:
    carindale Brisbane
    20170620_113427_zpsuf5qunyp.jpg Sunnyjim has a squeaky back end.....

    So a few people have suggested to have a look at the spring plates and rubber bushings.

    See pics below. I went and bought some new ones.

    Now i am having trouble getting the cap to go back and on . I can't align the bolts with the 4 holes as it was under some tension.
    I am wondering if i should pry the spring plate out of the lower stop?

    Anyone done this before?

    Rubber stuck to it
    20170620_113416_zpsuxczdjnb.jpg
    Oh what a mess!


    Yep its buggered
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2017
    Syncro27 likes this.
  9. Borgey

    Borgey Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    534
    Location:
    Helensburgh
    Was looking at something similar on YouTube today....try there. By memory I think he lined the 2 top ones up then used a jack to raise it and line the others up.
     
  10. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    616
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Book says put longer bolts in, pull up the plate then use the original bolts to tighten . I had this experience recently. Don't use anything but talc to lubricate.
     
    SunnyJim and Syncro27 like this.
  11. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,592
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    That is how I did my beetle
     
  12. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,836
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    You need to do inner inner as well so plate needs to come off.

    Getting it back on a jack under lower is helpful to align as is longer bolt if necessary.
     
  13. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    616
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
  14. SunnyJim

    SunnyJim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,401
    Location:
    carindale Brisbane
    Phase 1 completed outer rubbers done.

    The objective was not to yet fix a sagging rear because it hasn't caused any issue yet. Main objective stop the squeaking.
    Thx all for advice. I also was on the wrong path having greased the rubbers. I now realise that is a Dr no no.
    Grease removed and talc inserted.

    So i was able to replace the outer rubbers and using the extra long 10mm Bolts i got the caps back on. Once it was on i could then swap out each long bolt with the original smaller ones.
    A quick test drive proved that i had fixed the squeaks.
    However when it is parked and i shake the bus side to side i still get some squeaks. (Would that be the shagged inner rubbers? ) but the most important thing i have solved it when driving.
    I assume because the outers were so shagged the inners could be the same?
    Sunnyjim will be driven again and if we start hearing the torsion bar rubber banshee scream i guess we will have to do the inner rubbers;)
     
  15. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,836
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Don't be a lazy sod..
    Considering state of outers its a given the inners are stuffed to some degree.
    Fix both n they will last longer.
    You love tricky jobs. :)
     
  16. SunnyJim

    SunnyJim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,401
    Location:
    carindale Brisbane

    Thanks cbus ... i was looking forward to living in denial but you came all looking and ruined it:rolleyes: i guess the inners are on the list.

    Now i am wondering.. the fact that the arse end has sagged just a little would be due to the actual torsion bar itself slightly fatiguing and nothing to do with the rubber bushing?
     
  17. SunnyJim

    SunnyJim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,401
    Location:
    carindale Brisbane
    Who knows about inner rubbers?
    Now that i have solved the squeaky bum problem by replacing the outer rubbers i may as well replace the inners.

    Just looking at bentley it looks like if i take the spring plates off i can replace the inner rubbers? As i don't want to change the rear height I was thinking all I have to do is to mark tbe spring plate position and the torsion bar position and then return the parts to this position.
    Is this right?
    I cant see from bently how exactly the inner end of the torsion bar is held into place?

     
  18. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,833
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    I thought the inner side of the torsion bar goes into a spline at both ends.

    If you take the spring plate off you will see.

    To do the inner rubber the spring plate/ arm thing needs to come out.
     
  19. SunnyJim

    SunnyJim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,401
    Location:
    carindale Brisbane

    Scott
    As bentley doesn't show it removed i was struggling to see the overall picture . I assume if i work on one side and remove springs plates and the rubbers it cant spin or move around because the other side is still held into place?
     
  20. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,833
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    From what I understand Paul, is you just wiggle it out once the cover plate is off and it comes out from the centre cog and you can then get to the inner rubber.
     
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