Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Hutchie, Aug 25, 2019.
Spot welds down the back all plugged up
Rear seam weld.
Lots of plug welds.
Welding was completed back in June. All finished …... I wish
Westy Roof sitting on for the first time.
By now we are up to the start of August.
The original Westy PopTop had this dimpled finish to it which is well past its use by date.
After a day with an 80 grit block, both top and luggage rack (the bit that goes over driver/passenger head) were looking pretty good for re-spray.
About a week ago I started removing the original "flocking" material on the underside of the PopTop as it was pretty stained and dirty.
After trying a few different things; combination heat gun/scraper, multi tool with blade attachment, I finally settled down to using a large blade scraper.
The hard to get places I've been spraying on acetone and letting that rest for 5 minutes to soften up the glue, and then scrape of the sludge. The fibre glass seems fine with the acetone.
OK We've finally caught up...its now 25 Aug.
This weekend was spent back on a sanding block getting all of the old contact adhesive off the floor of the van, and getting the inside ready for a re-spray.
I’m sending it off tomorrow for some minor rust repairs (underneath both rear quarters). I will also get the guy to blast out the seams and re-seal.
Here is the back of one the seams just fwd of rear wheel arch. My intention is to get the old seam sealer blasted out, then treat for rust from both sides.
Question to the experts out there what do you use to treat your rust and re-seal your seams ?
Regards to all ... the adventure continues
Good quality work going on there.
Much cleaner inside the boxed sections than the average bay.
Confirm that acetone wont hurt cured fibreglass.
Where you can't access seams I would blow tannic acid type ( fertan) rust converter thru .
Rinse and blow out with air and metho then a few hits with penetrol aerosol Can with nozzle with 24 hrs between coats.
Then seal with a seam sealed like sika.
If access is difficult for the sika then tannic rust converter , blow out , then a heavy duty lanolin or tectyl 506.
For external seams I blast, tannic, rinse and dry,
Penetrol, sand or blast again then phosphoric acid prep external surfaces ,rinse and wipe dry with metho immediately.
epoxy primer. Seam seal with sika bead,after at least 24 hrs- prime.
Thanks for the info cbus.
Yes I am being cautious with the acetone, I was put onto that by the local fibre glass suppliers !. On the few times that I have used it the gel coat underneath seems to be fine.
What type of Sika seam sealer do you recommend ?
I meant that I confirm acetone being safe
It won't hurt.
Even safe to clean polycarbonate glasses whereas gp thinners destroys them instantly.
The only issue with it when used on metal is that it evaporates so fast that it creates condensation.
Any urethane sika will do.
227 probably the pick for light glueing or in place of drip check in seams.
Most impressive Hutchie
cbus I have some "Rust Bullet" and was thinking of using that on the inside seams in places where I could get to....would that be beneficial in keeping the seams free from rust for a while ?
I haven't used it but have checked the specs and recon it would be better than penetrol so a good choice.
The Van left this morning to get some rust repairs done. While it is away for the next few weeks I'm going to turn my attention to cleaning up some of the interior bits n bobs. I was going to order new window seals all round but I've now realised that most (if not all) of the seals are still on the windows. They don't look to be in bad condition, do you think that I could re-use them, or buy new ?
I replaced all the 30 year old rubbers with new, only coz it’s hard to tell if they are actually sealing like they should, until it’s too late, no matter how good they looked....but that was just me.......
You did well with the spot weld drill. It’s not hard to go just .8mm too deep, to render the second panel a complete hole. I learn’t lots with that toy, on the SC.
Sound advice Grant, it's off to Gunzl then !
My other concern, was although I had no rust, I wondered if they had just comfortably moulded into a tight seal over 30 years, and would they still do that if disturbed, by removing and refitting them?
By scrapping them mentally before I started, I was then happy to just cut them away, ensuring no risk of breaking the glass on removal....
Van is still in with the "rust man" so while I had some time I thought I would finish off removing the flocking on the PopTop.
I still need to give it a light sand to remove the last of the residue, but just about done, and I don't want to do it again that stuff was a PITA to remove.
Made a trip into check on the Ol Girl yesterday, and things seem to be moving on pretty well. The rust patches behind both rear tail light assys have been cleaned up nicely with some new metal.
Seams are just about done also
The old body liner material had started to crack in some areas under the guards so I've bitten the bullet and had it all removed back to bare metal.
It's off to the paint shop in just over a week ... can't wait
Well things are still moving along, all of the underbody, seams and minor rust repairs are now all complete so we've moved onto getting the interior ready for re-spray.
My preferred new colour is "Orly Blue" metallic (LP5Z) which is an original US VW Carat colour from 89. For some reason my local paint shop is having trouble looking up the paint code, he keeps turning up a blank for LP5Z with the nearest being LP5U (Dark Blue metallic). Is anyone able to offer any advice here ... can I point him to a US/European database ?
Looks great - I would just go the local colour.
I have had this issue before and just changed to something more common.
Otherwise later touch ups could be very hard to match.
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