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Tappet Adjustment

Discussion in ''How To' & 'Handy Hints'' started by emby, Feb 19, 2011.

  1. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    I said I'd stick this up for Markus. Apologies if it's duplicating another thread. If you can spot any deliberate mistakes, or have altenative suggestions can you please comment. Cheers

    My "new" rebuilt motor has now done 20,000km. Big service today to make sure everything is sweet. Started off by checking the tappets.

    The biggest tip I've got here is when you're planning on doing your tappets think one day a ahead and park the bus where you have easy access to everything the night before.

    To those new to doing this I've taken a few photos so hopefully it's easier to understand.

    The first thing I do is pop the distributor cap off so I check that I'm adjusting the right valves. I have a Vacuum Advance distributor (check out the mushroom can on the side of the dizzy). In the photo you can see the lead going to cylinder No. 1 is different to the others. I had two kombis and swapped the leads over on each one so it was easy for me to identify number one on each of the kombis. For the 009 distributor the firing sequence is the same but the plugs on the distributor cap are all rotated 90 degrees clockwise.

    [​IMG]

    In the next photo you can see the rotor arm is just before firing on No. 1. This rotor arm is a 5400 RPM limiter (Don't ask me why, it just is). There's a notch on the distributor body that shows where No. 1 is. You can't quite see it in this photo, but a later one shows it up better.

    [​IMG]

    Using a 22mm combination spanner on the alternator (mine's 22m, but my other bus was a 21mm) I rotated the engine anticlockwise until the rotor arm lined up with the notch on the dizzy.

    [​IMG]

    I know this is the right position now because I've marked the fan wheel on the engine and it lines up with TDC (0 on the timing scale)

    [​IMG]
     
  2. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Next job is to get to the tappets.

    To those new to this they're located behind the rear wheels, just above the heat exchanger

    [​IMG]

    This is the rocker cover

    [​IMG]

    As you can see from the first photo I don't have mudflaps. The other bus has got them. I'll be honest, they can be a pain in the arse working around when you're doing the tappets. Also, as opposed to working inside the bus I love working on the right hand side when I'm doing this, but hate working on the left hand side. I always scrape some skin off my hand somewhere when I do the left hand side.

    OK, getting the rocker cover off is easy. I use an big screw driver, pop it under the bail arm and lever down.....

    [​IMG]


    ... and off it pops

    [​IMG]
     
  3. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Inside the rocker cover is a cork gasket. This one's been on for aboot 4,000km and needs changing.

    [​IMG]

    So what's under the rocker cover??? These are the tappets and rocker arms.

    [​IMG]

    This is the right hand side of the bus. The two on the right are No. 1 cylinders exhaust and inlet valves, the two on the left of No. 2 cylinders exhaust and inlet valves.

    As I've set the firing sequence to top dead centre (TDC) on #1 I'm going to be checking / adjusting the right hand pair. First the Inlet valve... (I think this is the right way round, but will stand corrected if I'm wrong. Not thiat it matters because you're doing both and they're both set the same)

    [​IMG]

    This one is good. I can get the .006 feeler gauge in between the stud and the valve spring with just a little bit of drag between the two on the gauge.

    Now the exhaust valve..

    [​IMG]

    This one is good too.
     
  4. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Now on to cylinder #2.

    Again, with the combination spanner on the alternator nut rotate the engine ANTICLOCKWISE. I've put this in caps because it's very easy to go the wrong way. If you do then you won't be able to adjust the tappets beacuse the valves will be closed.

    [​IMG]

    Remember the firing sequence on a kombi is 1-4-3-2 and this is in a clockwise direction around the distributor, so when you're adjusting the tappets you work in the opposite direction. Going ANTIclockwise starting at one turns it into 1-2-3-4. (Also remember that 1 and 3 are the front cylinders on the bus, i.e. towards the front of the bus)

    To get the engine firing on #2 you need to rotate the engine 180 degrees ANTIclockwise. (I didn't have a mark on my original pully so took the timing scale off, moved the pulley until top dead centre was at the bottom of the pulley and then used a plumb bob to mark the top. There are other threads around that can show you how to do this).

    As above, I now have a mark 180 degrees opposite the notch in the pulley that you use to find top dead centre. Line this mark up with 0 on the timing scale

    [​IMG]

    Check the clearances on #2 exhaust valve (the right one of the pair)

    [​IMG]

    As you can see, this is a bit tight and the feeler gauge won't slip through between the stud and the spring (sorry if these aren't the technical terms, but a photo says a thousand words).

    This tappet needs adjusting (opening a bit). I use a socket wrench to loose off the nut. It's 14mm.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2011
  5. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    You only need to loosen the nut a bit. I usual only go about a quarter of a turn. Once you've loosened it you can adjust the gap between the stud and the spring with a screw driver in the slot on the stud.

    [​IMG]

    It's only a very slight adjustment. I leave the feeler gauge in palce so I can see when it slips down abit as the gap opens. If your gap is too wide then you need to tighten the stud.

    [​IMG]

    This is better.

    The next bit can be a bit tricky. You've set the gap to the right distance (as I've said I set mine to .006 in), but you need to tighten the nut to make sure it doesn't move. This is where you need a 14mm ring spanner. Hold the stud in place with the screwdriver and tighten the nut with the spanner.

    [​IMG]

    Once it's tight check the clearance again with the feeler gauge. Sometimes the stud can move a bit when you tighten the nut. If this happens you need to undo the nut and readjust the gap again.

    Once you're happy I also give the nut a final tweak with the 14mm socket wrench. (only a fraction though)

    I checked the inlet valve on #2 and the gap was fine. Every time I've done this I've hardly ever had to adjust the inlet valves. It's always the exhaust valves and there's usualy only a slight adjustment needed because they've tightened slightly.

    That's the driver side done (Cylinders 1 and 2). Time to put the rocker cover back on. As I said earlier the cork gasket needs changing

    [​IMG]
     
  6. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Using a cloth I wipe away all of the oil (there's only a verylight coating inside the rocker cover)

    [​IMG]

    The new cork gasket sits in the cover perfectly. I don;t use any sealant of any kind here. It just fits snugly.

    [​IMG]

    A very very thin coat of multipurpose greass is applied the outside of the cork gasket (the bit that contacts the head). This isn't for any other reason than to get the thing to stick to the head and ensure it doesn't fall off when you offer up the rocker cover.

    [​IMG]

    Rocker cover goes back on. Funnily enough the VW sign on the rocker cover should be upside down. I don't kow why this is. Someone told me to do it this way, so that's the way I do it and I've never had any problems.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Finally you need the get that bail arm back into place. This is a pain in the arse if you ask me and is a good reason to have solid heat exchangers. I usually lever that last bit off the exhangers. :eek:

    [​IMG]

    So that's one side finished, now on to the side that I scrape my knuckles on. Again, rotate the engine 180 degrees ANTICLOCKWISE until the mark on the pully lines up with 0 on the timing scale

    [​IMG]

    The rotor arm is now firing on cylinder #3

    [​IMG]

    There's that notch in the distributor body I was talking about earlier that shows where cylinder #1 fires. See it's directly opposite the position of the rotor am at the bottom of the picture just above the red wire
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2011
  8. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Remember you're now doing Cylinder #3 which is towards the front of the bus. I always have to check this cos I'm a bit of an idiot. Luckily VW help me out a bit here as they've marked which cylinder is which on the tinware. This is the first thing I see when I look at the tinware. A big number 4, which means that #3 must be the front one

    [​IMG]

    Again, checking Inlet (left hand side of left hand pair) and exhaust (right hand side of left hand pair). As usual #3 exhaust was a little tight and needed a minor adjustment

    [​IMG]

    Moving on to #4 is that same again. Rotate the engine ANTICLOCKWISE through 180 degrees until the mark lines up with 0 on the timing scale.

    Mine was fine and I didn't take photos this time, but it's the right hand pair of the photo above. I changed the gasket as I did earlier and popped the rocker cover back on.

    The final photo I took was a reminder to myself.

    [​IMG]

    Once you've finished make sure you put the distributor cap back on. I nearly always forget this and try and start the bus, then wonder why it won't start. :eek:

    Hope these photos help a few newbies. Saves me a fortune on servicing doing this myself. Particularly as you should do it every 5,000km. personally I do it religously every 4,000km and a few times in between to. I tells you what's happening to the valves and heads if you check it regulalry engough.

    Next jobs is to get rid of all that dust in the engine bay. Bloody unsealed roads....lol
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2011
  9. BrianK

    BrianK Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,218
    Location:
    Mount Gambier, SA
    Top job there mate.:cool:
     
  10. Ozzie

    Ozzie Member

    Messages:
    694
    Location:
    Sydney
    Nice work there Emby :)
     
  11. SunnyJim

    SunnyJim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,401
    Location:
    carindale Brisbane
    emby

    that is a very nice job
     
  12. BryceBusDriver

    BryceBusDriver Member

    Messages:
    119
    Location:
    Southern Adelaide
    Fantastic tutorial if only law professors could teach like that too!!
     
  13. john doherty

    john doherty Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    798
    Location:
    adelaide
    Emby....that is a most selfless and thoughtful contribution of inestimable value to idiot luddites like myself who regularly peer hopefully at the engine before patting it tenderly and with much love but too s..t scared to do something so radical as actually administer a spanner to somawhere where it fits and then "heaven forbid"..actually loosen a nut. I am emboldened and empowered by your deeplyconsidered and empowerering post.On behalf of I and the beloved...thank you! JD in Adelaide
     
  14. GypsyWannabe

    GypsyWannabe Active Member

    Messages:
    3,032
    Location:
    Quakers Hill, Sydney
    Good effort Emby. I know there's already a sticky on this from Schmoburger I think but this is also good, with piccies too!

    I think it deserves a sticky, too!

    Baz
     
  15. KombiMadness

    KombiMadness Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,702
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast
    Hey Matt,

    Great post and photos. As you say, a picture tells a thousand words.

    One question though. Rotating the engine 180 degrees (always anti-clockwise, right) each time (cylinder) so that the mark lines up with 0 - is this the same mark every time or are there different marks. Also, what if the mark is not there??
     
  16. Seany

    Seany Member

    Messages:
    206
    Location:
    VIC
    Agreed!

    [The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 10 characters.]
     
  17. KombiMadness

    KombiMadness Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,702
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast
    OK, I just re read your post and read the bit below which sort of answers my question but if you could clarify, 'cause I'm a bit thick when it comes to mechanical stuff, that'd be appreciated...




    Remember the firing sequence on a kombi is 1-4-3-2 and this is in a clockwise direction around the distributor, so when you're adjusting the tappets you work in the opposite direction. Going clockwise starting at one turns it into 1-2-3-4. (Also remember that 1 and 3 are the front cylinders on the bus, i.e. towards the front of the bus)

    To get the engine firing on #2 you need to rotate the engine 180 degrees clockwise. (I didn't have a mark on my original pully so took the timing scale off, moved the pulley until top dead centre was at the bottom of the pulley and then used a plumb bob to mark the top. There are other threads around that can show you how to do this).

    As above, I now have a mark 180 degrees opposite the notch in the pulley that you use to find top dead centre. Line this mark up with 0 on the timing scale
     
  18. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    No worries Markus. I'll pop a photo up tomorow. There is mark both sides of your pulley but if I remember right the bottom mark has a bit a smudge (previous owner, not me), although once you get used to it you know where it is (you can sort of see the TDC notch so you can pretty much line up 180 degrees)
     
  19. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Bugger. I think I see what you mean now Markus. I wrote you must go ANTICLOCKWISE and then carried on writing clockwise. What a pillock. Ill go back and edit the original. :eek:
     
  20. london_mike

    london_mike New Member

    Messages:
    350
    Location:
    VIC 3071
    Thanks loads for this. I just used it (along with Muir) to adjust the valves on my Beetle for the very first time. So ridiculously simple I can't believe I never did it before.
    Now to test the compression!! :eek:
     

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