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Tappet Adjustment

Discussion in ''How To' & 'Handy Hints'' started by emby, Feb 19, 2011.

  1. Volksy85

    Volksy85 Member

    Messages:
    403
    Location:
    Melbourne
    hi guys

    just wondering what the relevance of adjusting the crank a certain amount between checks/popping dizzy cap off is?

    my (noob) take on it was always that if the valve isnt 'engaged' and the rocker can be moved, then the gap is ready for check/adjustment?
     
  2. VolksVair

    VolksVair New Member

    Messages:
    414
    Location:
    Geelong VIC
    One trick with the removal & re- installation of rocker covers is to piss of the screw driver and get hold of a baby crowbar, Yeah thats right CROWBAR!! You can get hold of a mini one at most hardware stores, the curved hook is the best thing for VW rocker cover clips!! For removal, slide the curved end downwards in between the cover & clip, grasp the other end of the bar ( which is hanging down below heater box) and just lightly push away from you. Presto, clip has just popped over the ridge and is now hanging down. I stallation is the opposite, but this is where this little crowbar becomes the gem in the tool box!! Place rocker cover on head and with your fingers, just slide the clip until it makes contact with the cover, then place the curved end of jimmy UP between the clip & cover. Now the opposite end of jimmy is facing up (almost in your face) now, by pushing lightly on the end of jimmy, you will find that the crowbar does two jobs at once!! it puts pressure on the rocker cover as to not allow the cover to slip & dislodge gasket, it then flex's the clip out & away from the cover and as quick as a blink, POP its on. Try it!! bet you will never use a screw driver again cheers Frank
     
    onetrackwonder likes this.
  3. spearsy

    spearsy Active Member

    Messages:
    1,112
    Location:
    sydney
    I've been using mine for a while now and as volksvair says it works a treat.:) :)
     
  4. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    7,937
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Just a thought....howzabout marking the 2nd mark - the one at 180 deg to TDC, in a different colour. That way you know that the white mark is the one you time to & the other colour is the one for setting the valves...........great post & agree about the use of pics. - makes it very easy to understand. Cheers, Mark
     
  5. Trav&Ren

    Trav&Ren Member

    Messages:
    423
    Location:
    Melbourne
    I think it was 1500king who posted about how to adjust your tappets with only No.1 & No.3 on TDC. This is the method I use and it eliminates the need of trying to work out exactly where the second mark should go.

    Trav
     
  6. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    7,937
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    I hear you Trav. The suggestion was more for those that like to go step by step, nice & easy rather than trying to take in a lot of info at once.
    The sytem that Andrew posted is def. more efficient time-wise & dead accurate too.
    People need to have alternatives that they can choose from I think & Emby's post is nice & simple - imo- Cheers, Mark
     
  7. DakDak67

    DakDak67 Guest

    This is fine for a set camshaft those with dialed in cams need to measure valve lift to do it properly, I recently tuned mine this way to set at loose zero. Reckon I've picked up 10 hp.
     
  8. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Great idea. I guess I've done mine that often now that I actually know which is the right mark by where the rotor is pointing. But for the first few times it was a bit confusing which was the right mark.

    What I really need though is someway of reminding myself which sequence it goes in when I move over the left hand side of the engine. I still have to stop and think about it.:eek:
     
  9. tombi

    tombi Member

    Messages:
    157
    Great info' fellas and for those of you,who like me, needed to see the video version before tackling this job, check out youtube of course.

    Yes, small pichbar is a must. No more skinned knuckles.

    Great vidoes at Shoptalkforums.com on tappett adjustment and also static timing.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2012
  10. 77dual

    77dual Member

    Messages:
    196
    Location:
    Canberra
    Thanks for posting this up, I spent a good part of today doing my valves for the first time, it was a huge help.

    They're still making a bit of noise though so I might have to have another go tomorrow and see what I can do.
     
  11. GRACIEPOG

    GRACIEPOG Member

    Messages:
    254
    Location:
    Calga, Central Coast NSW
    If you adjust to 6thou which is the spec for a type 4 engine you WILL have a bit of tappit noise. The spec for a type 1 is 4thou. They say 6 thou for the Kombi so you don't have to adjust them as often. If you do it to 4 Thou you'll be forever adjusting them.
     
  12. 77dual

    77dual Member

    Messages:
    196
    Location:
    Canberra
    Ok thanks mate, yeah they're adjusted to 6thou (.15mm). It seems to be running fine so I'll leave it for a little while and see how it goes.
     
  13. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    7,937
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Hey Jared, I'm pretty sure that 4 thou. is for pre-71 engines.
    6 thou. for engines with prefixes: AB,AC,AD,AE,AF,AH,AJ,AK,AR,AS...
    Could be on type 1 or type 4 engines. Best to know the engine number & adjust to suit.
    Cheers, Mark
     
  14. DakDak67

    DakDak67 Guest

    With The thermal expansion 6 thou cold turns into around 12 thou hot, I'm now setting mine to "loose zero" , look it up , just to add more confusion.
     
  15. Kai

    Kai Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,676
    Location:
    Eastlakes, NSW
    I just follow the mantra. do mine first thing in the morning set them all to 6 thou with the method I've explained here or elsewhere. (muirs method).
     
  16. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,915
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    Here is the correct specs from Volkswagen for setting valves

    Valve clearances
    Type 2 1968-1979

    Intake 0.15mm (.006")

    Exhaust 0.15mm (.006")

    *Sodium filled exhaust valves 0.20mm (.008")

    For identification see sticker on engine.

    Type 1 (Beetle) All


    Intake 0.15mm (.006")

    Exhaust 0.15mm (.006")



    There is no 4 thou setting on any engine. This was changed in a 1960s technical bulletin.

    Sodium filled exhaust valves are for the Kombi type 4 engines.

    Reference " VAG Service - Technical Data Tightening Torques" February 1986 edition (Volkswagen Aktiengesellschaft, Wolfsburg)
    Reference "Volkswagen Official Service Manual - Station Wagon/Bus" Volkswagen of America (Bentley) 1979 edition
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2012
  17. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,915
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    As the valve stem expands and the pushrod expands, wouldn't the gap be reduced?
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2012
  18. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    7,937
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    ......that just doesn't help anyone Dak....c'mon most of us post to help, rather than confuse or baffle.

    I'm a builder, but I wouldn't post something along the lines of,
    " I use the backing angle on a skew gable rafter to ensure that the tile battens are adequately supported at the barge....wanna know more? look it up "

    get my drift.....:wtf:
     
  19. DakDak67

    DakDak67 Guest

    Yeh it's odd, but that's how it is ,seems to go against common thinking..
     
  20. DakDak67

    DakDak67 Guest

    No i disagree . Changed my thinking, grab a beer and read this, some of the USA's best engine builders contribute to this thread.
    http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=109813&highlight=valve setting loose zero
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 29, 2012

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