Terrible door seal

Discussion in 'Body' started by rstucke, Aug 11, 2018 at 4:30 PM.

  1. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    557
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    12 months ago I purchased the dearest door seals I could find, thinking they would be a good fit (mistake number 1). They had all the corner moulds nicely formed and when trial fitted to the door they were the correct size. I should have checked them against the original seals but they were binned years earlier when I stripped Blitz ready for blasting (mistake number 2). Because the original seal had let go at the front part of the door I glued the new seal in with poly urethane adhesive (mistake number 3). When I closed the door it stood proud of the rest of the panel work because of the greater thickness of the new seals so I adjusted the striker plates in as far as I could and still slam the door shut. I left it for 12 months while I got on with the rest of the resto thinking the seals would settle in (mistake number 4)

    So now that I’m driving the Kombi around the seals are giving me the shits.

    So I did something about it. 1.jpg 2.jpg
    I removed the passenger door seal (mistake number 5) and realised that the poly urethane (which held the seal no problems) didn’t hold them any harder than contact cement. The same can’t be said for the paint in the channels that the glue was attached to. It pulled the paint in some places when scraped. So rub it, prep it, prime and paint the areas with 2 pack and a brush.

    3.jpg 4.jpg
    Now to start over.

    Bought the cheapest seals I could. Trial fitted, they’re too long! But I,ve got a plan

    The original expensive seals came off in one piece. All the corners were moulded and super glued to the rest of the seal. I was determined to find what part of the seal makes the door stand outside its alignment. I suspected the moulding top and bottom of the back part of the door so removed them with a razor blade and trial fitted the seal (taped on). They don’t cause the problem. I removed the strip along the back section of the door and the door still stuck out.

    Turns out it’s the lower seal between the front and back part of the door. On close inspection I found there was no room for that type of seal when the door was closed so it bunched up and compressed as much as it could but obviously not enough (I could see where the seal was starting to be damaged along its edge).

    I used super glue (gel type) and put the seal back together except for the bottom runner. I used the front section (along the front of the door) even though it was a bit thick and made the door a little “springy” (nowhere near as much as before) because the cheapy seal was much thicker in that area specially the bottom front corner. This time I used contact cement to glue in (masked it up and sprayed it in.

    5.jpg 6.jpg
     
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  2. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    557
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    The lower section of the cheap seal was thinner and a little softer so I cut it off the rest of the seal and found it was hollow inside. I trial fitted it to the rest of the expensive seal on the door, didn’t fix the problem (still not enough room). I went home with the shits and sampled a few bottles of cab merlot before during and after dinner. Anyway this allowed me to think outside the box.

    The answer was simple. Turn the lower seal upside down (lip pointing up). That way it won’t foul on the flat section of the guard and jamb in the corner, but the rubber will still seal against the lip of the door way.

    So on Friday after 3 Panadol and a litre of water I raced into the workshop and trial fitted the seal upside down.

    Success!
    7.jpg 8.jpg

    I used the paper trick to make sure the seal does what it needs to do all the way around the door.

    10.jpg 11.jpg 12.jpg
     
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  3. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    557
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Door closes flush now. Time to celebrate with a nice cab sav.

    13.jpg 14.jpg
     
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  4. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,146
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Isn’t the procurement of such items so frustrating? :confused:

    Remember the days when price generally indicated better quality?

    Now it’s very easy to pay top dollar, for poor quality.......:mad:



    Glad you’ve sorted it! :)
     
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  5. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,131
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Nice work Rick :D

    Re quality, I've bought items from Mick @ Mick Motors and he's said to me he's ashamed to charge the price he has to for poor qaulity product these days :eek::rolleyes::confused:
     
  6. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,670
    Location:
    Seven hills
    I found some that I've seen it is normally the hinge side that is to hard and compression on the door preventing the door from closing or the use of excessive force to close the door.
     
  7. peter915

    peter915 Active Member

    Messages:
    631
    Location:
    Sunshine coast
    Rick - very fortunate timing I found this thread - I too am about to fit the new rubbers to all my refurbished doors.
    Very interesting -
    On the front doors - on the front leading hinge edge - did you use the small Tee buttons which hold the rubber in 3 or 4 places in the centre section?
    Any further tips ?
    Peter
     
  8. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    557
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Not sure what the Tee buttons are. The seal at the front of my doors is just held by glue and the rubber around the door stay has hooked ends that catch in the hole that the door stay goes through.
    As for tips
    I would only use contact adhesive to hold the seals and only where necessary
    front of the door, curve at the bottom, corners and bit near the door handle

    I'd fit the seals with no glue to start with (hold them on with masking tape) and see how they fit and how the door sits, specially around the lower seal area.
    If you need to cut the seal and reglue it use the jelly type super glue
     
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  9. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,146
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    I don’t know if bay window seals have the Tee buttons. :rolleyes:

    T3 door seals have 4 holes in them, for the clips to fit the seals into holes in the door frames:

    020D18EA-3339-4042-8111-470B7266EA0B.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2018 at 2:25 PM
  10. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    557
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    bays don't have the tee buttons
     
  11. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,670
    Location:
    Seven hills
    There is a metal bracket (spring steel) that helps hold the rubber on around where the stay goes through the hole in door. Most clips stay onto the door rubber and get thrown out.
     
  12. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,279
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    Cheers Rick. So Cab Merlot is the inspirational fluid? Cab Sav or Shiraz is my usual tipple.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2018 at 2:24 PM
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  13. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    557
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    love em all (maybe too much)
    enough of it takes you to a higher plane.
     
  14. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    625
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Thanks for the tips Rick. This is a job for the future on Harry. Great to hear you’re driving around in Blitz now. I saw him parked outside the unit on a weekend about two or three weeks ago whilst driving Harry past, but had no time to stop grrrrrrrrrr!

    I too tend to sample the odd Merlot or Cab Merlot on occasion :)
     
  15. Wattie

    Wattie Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    756
    Location:
    Mildura. Victoria. Australia.
    So it is true, Bays drive you to drink ? :cool:
     
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  16. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,279
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    My Bay drives me to Dan Murphy's so probably a true statement..
     
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  17. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    557
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    I would drive Blitz 500 miles and I would drive 500 m0re just to be the man that drove a thousand miles to get a cab sav at the bottle shop.
    and I'm not gonna haver for any one ……...ever.
     

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