1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Terrys Transformation- 76 Kombi

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Campervanstu, Jun 1, 2018.

  1. Campervanstu

    Campervanstu Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    PERTH, WA
    Hi all. Making some progress on Terry. Fixing the previous owners repairs and removing bog in readiness for new metal. I have found some 1975 doors for sale, but read somewhere that 1975 doors were changed for that year. Does anyone know what the difference is between 75 and 76 cab doors?
     
  2. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,889
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Check hinges.
    Some had hex head bolts and others a countersunk Phillips head

    Each attaches to opposite side of base plate.
    There is a conversion kit that changes at hinge pin available.

    Lowlight doors ( earlier again) have different handle and lock positions.
     
    Campervanstu likes this.
  3. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,996
    Location:
    Seven hills
    75-76 didn't think there was any difference at all. As cbus mentioned :rolleyes:the change is countersunk to hex head bolts that was later more 77 on .I have a 76 Sc ute with countersunk heads
     
    Poptop likes this.
  4. Campervanstu

    Campervanstu Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    PERTH, WA
    [​IMG] Got the doors and hinges are different. Apparently on late bus 75-79 the hinges are smaller. But as the doors were only $150 a pair it’s worth getting the hinge pin kit. Anyone got tips on hinge pin removal? Thanks
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2018
  5. Campervanstu

    Campervanstu Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    PERTH, WA
    Tried to add a photo to explain and share. Set up a photobucket account to help.[​IMG] Here goes
     
  6. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,637
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Don't need photobucket - they'll charge you or delete your photos from here as it's 3rd Party Hosting. :eek:

    Use the Upload a File tab when posting a reply - the UaF tab is next to the Post Reply in the lower right corner. Allows you to chose a picture from your computer - has to be under 1MB otherwise it won't post as too large. If posible with photos make the setting VGA - digital camera.;)
     
    Campervanstu likes this.
  7. Campervanstu

    Campervanstu Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    PERTH, WA
    Thanks for the advice. Does that work from iPhone as well or do I have to be on a PC?
     
  8. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,637
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Process different from iPhone ...... but can still be done as some doing it but I don't use iPhone so can't advise any further o_O:rolleyes:
     
  9. Campervanstu

    Campervanstu Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    PERTH, WA
    Decided to continue with the bare metal plans and stripped the rear left quarter. Some panel beating needed around the bottom to fix previous repair. (Photo to follow)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2018
  10. Campervanstu

    Campervanstu Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    PERTH, WA
    410F2513-FF1F-414B-9D87-1EFF15A44F14.png 48A8F1E4-7154-48F6-AACC-5A931DE7EB3F.png 6945F1CE-442C-4F36-81D6-B4249F674B11.png 030660BB-8ADD-4580-8AF9-18F0FA5285E3.png Made some more progress this weekend. Removing the PO bog from the front panel and the cab step. Before and after are in reverse. It was in primer and I’ve removed it along with a few kilos of bog.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2018
  11. Campervanstu

    Campervanstu Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    PERTH, WA
    40770AF0-E8CE-47E3-A2BE-A77E804BE711.jpeg E07AA5D8-4851-49A8-A756-CF60AA221144.jpeg So after patching the front steps I turned my attention to the nose again. I removed the headlight bowl to get better access to the dents. But I fear my panel beating skills cannot match the damage already done. As the middle is still full of bog and the right is rusted I am convinced a new panel is the way to go.

    Appreciate any comments on previous experiences of New front panel fitting.
     
  12. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,889
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Fitting a new front skin is probably easier than shaping the bog.
    Not hard if you are methodical.
     
    Campervanstu likes this.
  13. Campervanstu

    Campervanstu Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    PERTH, WA
    Thanks @cbus . Yeah , I was trying to be nostalgic and save the original panel. (And a bit of cash) will order a new skin when I’ve done the rear panels I’ve just bought and keep the wife happy for a while.
     
  14. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,889
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Be nostalgic about the new panel being as per factory :)

    Good luck on the last bit ;)
     
  15. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,889
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Takes a bit to bite the bullet but going by photo I think you will be happy with the choice.
     
    Campervanstu likes this.
  16. Campervanstu

    Campervanstu Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    PERTH, WA
    [​IMG] It’s been a while since I posted any updates. But i have a few on an off weekend here and there.

    Finally got the rear (inner) valance fitted and lines up all the gaps with the rear engine lid fitted. Moved onto the right corner curing out rusty metal. Found some more rust behind the rear arch and fabricated some patches. Happy with the results so far, ready to tackle the Rear arch panel and corners over the next few weeks.https://photos.app.goo.gl/BqiBJD8ZNgLq2ioH7
     
    David H likes this.
  17. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,439
    Location:
    newcastle
    Nice fabrication:). Keep at it. Great job.
    Cheers
     
    Campervanstu likes this.

Share This Page