Discussion in 'Kombi Club' started by kyznet, Jul 14, 2008.
i think (dont know for sure) it ran from 68 to 73/4, Quite prefer the flap to a visible petrol cap
ty for the cap response
ok heres another i got an email with lots of crazy vdubs and kombis,, but cant save to post
so..if anyone wants it email me for a fwd
TRY PHOTBUCKETING THE PICTURES - save them in your documents on your computer then upload - then put in post
cant its a flash presentation
To put it into terms that Doc and yon self may comprehend.
Its like getting a DOA thats still breathing.
I prescribe same response as A&E dept. Sharp crack to head or smother with pillow to save re-doing the paperwork.
No!! Just kidding.
Premium as we all know has a higher octane rating than normal ulp, therefore ulp does not burn as effeciantly as pulp. Its possible that your timing was done with pulp and now that you have ulp your timing may be a tad out causing the motor to run on.
If you go to your local REPCO store and ask them for 'upper cylinder cleaner',for horizontally opposed motors. Subaru use it every service to clean all the carbon build up around the valves.
this upper cylinder cleaner jon.....is it for the fuel tank?...or the sump?
do i need to worry mate
will it involve paperwork or engine damage
i can't afford heart surgery!
point taken re inefficient burning jon - however the engine runs better on ULP ??? i don't know why but it does
The upper cylinder spray has all the instructions on the can but basically,
- start your kombi up and let idle for 10 mins
-turn kombi off and remove air cleaner box to spray the cleaner stuff directly into the throat of the carby/s.
-Spray approx 50% of cleaner into the carby/s
-let sit for 5-10 mins
-start kombi up(will be a bugger to start so have a friend to start it while you are at the engine
-rev engine to about 2500 rpm and while motor running spray the rest of the cleaner down the carby/s
-expect ALOT of white smoke coming from the exhaust,best to go for a fang around the streets to get rid of all the nasties in the cylinder head.
The longer you leave the cleaner sitting in your carby/s the better it will work.
You may also need to repeat the process to get the full advantage.
this "fanging" you speak of - sounds like the fun part !!
Advanced timing can cause veh to ,run on,.If the kombi was timed to run on premium it may be set at more initial advance than standard. Ie maybe 12 deg. The extra advance on unleaded can give a better 'feel' and higher idle when driving.
No problem as long as there is no preignition[pinging] while driving[usually noticeable under load and lower revs.]
The othe result of too much adv or retard ign can be overheating.
To check if timing may be the cause do a static time and set somewhere between 7.5 and 9 deg btdc. Think your bus is1800/2l isnt it?
If timing not the problem then carbon in heads a poss as suggested but be careful with the cleaner as I have set a kombi on fire with that stuff in the past.
The valve saver you are using will also act as a upper cylinder lubricant and cleans the combustion chambers in a more gentle fasion.
Check that your fuel cutoff solenoid on idle circuit is operating by pulling the electrical wire off while engine idling . Ifengine stops when you do this it is working. If not touch wire ti solenoid contact a few times and listen for clicking [which indicates its working]
If clicking and engine doesnt stop then remove solenoid and check that someone hasnt chopped the needle off.
Another option coul be that carbs are running on mains ans not the idle circuit at idle. This needs a readjustment if the case but could heve been done to keep things running if idle circuit is blocked
Good Post Col
very thorough col - thanks
i thinks my first step is to put in Premium next fill up (as i have always done in the past)
if the engine stops running on then the timing is set for premim - i presume
you're right about the "high" feeling whilst driving on ULP
spose most KCers feel that when driving there kombi anways LOL
OK...heres my contribution to the stupid question thread...
How does an engine seize?...i mean if a perfectly workable engine is pulled out and it sits in a garage...then does it become seized at some point?..and if so...just how?
In the case of a working engine left alone for thirty years ......... rust or the equivalent there of with the metals involved (oxidation ) could cause the engine to seize (stop being able to be turned)
I have certainly seen engines that haven't seen use for prolonged times not seize secondary to the oil and lubrication.........
Not really an answer to your question, but I had an engine seize and cost me dollars... I worked away for a couple of weeks, managed to get home to Launceston on a particularly cold frosty morning in Tassie winter, decided to take Cliff for a drive.
As I started up, starter kicked in, rattle rattle rattle bang - blue smoke....bugger.
Drove straight to the mechanics, he reckons it had frozen up, or the barrels had shrunk a little, becoming too tight on the pistons, leading to my bang. Bugger bugger bugger. Not happy.
Ever since then, whenever I go away for a few weeks, I always pull the spark plugs, squirt a little oil in the holes and turn it over a few times by hand, just in case.
Hard to believe an engine would "seize" while sitting, (apart from the rust issue stated above), my engine seized, but was due valvehead jamming, and the piston ended up with a rather large hole, caused by the extreme heat and repeated hitting of the valve head..... ouch. (I've kept the head as a momento of how not too treat your VW.. there is a picture in my gallery if your interested..)
Are rock n roll bed/seats bolted to the floor? Or how are they held in?
ooops sorry that wasn;t helpful at all i got this mixed up with "the stupid answer thread"
i would like to know how to fix them down too as i will need one in my camper which is off to the spray painter soon
I saw an engine for sale on here...and i just have to ask...What is a turn key 2 litre engine?....i just know its going to something simple.
Separate names with a comma.