The Type 2 Heating System Explained

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by rays76bay, May 20, 2007.

  1. Box Car Jones

    Box Car Jones New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Warburton Vic
    I ran mine "on" and disconnected the tubes for a few months but still have an unpleasant oily smell when I reconnected. Is there anyway to treat, clean or mitigate the oil residue in the heater boxes?
     
  2. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,604
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    The heater boxes will still have oil in them so you need to clean them, or replace them. You could try spraying degreaser in the air holes and letting it sit a while, then wash it out and run the engine to dry them. Taking the casing off is risky as most are old and can be impossible to fit back correctly.

    Adrian
     
  3. jaybay

    jaybay Member

    Messages:
    31
    Location:
    sydney
    The backing plate on the alternator seems to be able to be installed with the vent facing up or the vent facing down.
    I can't seem to find any info on which way it should go.
    I can't rely on how it was when i pulled it apart because lots of other stuff on the van had been installed incorrectly.
    Any clues?
    Thanks IMG_0574.JPG
     
  4. jaybay

    jaybay Member

    Messages:
    31
    Location:
    sydney
  5. DoZy

    DoZy New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Victoria
    Since this thread is sort of alive again-
    I'm working on the heater system myself now (its winter in Melbourne!)... I actually bought some 2nd hand cables years ago and am just getting around to it. I'm relieved to find these cables do work!

    Now, everything has gone OK up to the point where I need to remove the old cables from the conduits (tubes) under the van. And they are STUCK :eek:( Both of them. The inners are frozen and the outers just will not move.

    Digging around and it seems 71whitewesty over at TheSamba had the same problem (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=322553 <- some good info & pics here). rustbus had the same problem and ended up breaking the cable. The solution was to cable-tie the new ones on the outside.

    Are there any other suggestions for getting these cables out? If its hard to get out, how hard to get the new ones in?

    Cheers
    DoZy
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2015
  6. chewtah

    chewtah Guest

    These sort of things can have exhaust leaks that go into the heater system and quickly end up in the cabin. Is there no 12 volt fan heater available?
     
  7. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,196
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    Had one frozen some time ago. squirt CRC or equivalent into the tube and leave for a while. Pull and tug then CRC and leave for another while. It should come out eventually.
     
  8. chewtah

    chewtah Guest

    12 volt heater.jpg Are these sort of things any good ? 12 volt truck heater
     
  9. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,253
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Power = Volts x Amps

    If you have 12 Volts then at 1 Amp you get 12 Watts

    12W wouldnt keep a flea in the Sahara warm

    So - lets go to 120 Watts. and now you are chewing 10 Amps. Thats a LOT of Amps

    What is the Watts of the truck heater?

    OK - just found one on Ebay - 300W - has heavy duty fused wiring and comes with a 30 amp fuse and holder

    You will want to make sure you have some SERIOUS wires to power that baby
     
  10. chewtah

    chewtah Guest

    Well they make a variety of them, and it would circulate the cabin air through it and each pass would make it hotter.
     
  11. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,570
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    in theory.
    unfortunately the reality is likely to be that losses from the cold windows and panels[to say nothing of incoming drafts] would be greater than the 300W from heater.
    Might give some comfort to the person its directed at ??
    Also means there is an additional significant constant electrical load.

    Most heater boxes have an insulated panel inside which contains a woven material[asbestos or fibreglass??].
    I would expect most have deteriorated somewhat and may continue to stink for some considerable time if contaminated with oil or degreaser.
    plenty of solvents that may get rid of the oil but obviously it will not be a job done in situ.
    Probably the pick of solvents for dunking to remove oil would be Trichloroethane111. Then air dry and heat to remove all traces.
    Its listed as a 'safety solvent' :rolleyes:??? that only mean it has a high flash point.
    Very hazardous if inhaled or consumed.
    safety gear is essential.
    But it does evaporate without leaving a residue if used correctly.

    Acetone should do a similar job and easier to obtain but has a low flashpoint so be sure to air the items fully before fitting:eek:

    probably worth degreasing the external casing first to limit contamination of the good [read ,expensive]solvent when dunking.

    also, most heater boxes are usually rotten on the ends or crimps so that would need repair as well.
    plus sort the oil leak.
     
    john doherty likes this.
  12. jobell

    jobell Active Member

    Messages:
    580
    Location:
    Walwa, Victoria
    Just found this thread. Didn't know that I could have heating AND de-misting as an added bonus. What a luxury! Sadly I'm pretty sure Miss D is missing some of the expensive bits needed for this little exercise, but I'll have to do a bit of a reccy and see what's actually there. I live in hope.
     

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