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The Type 2 Heating System Explained

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by rays76bay, May 20, 2007.

  1. Box Car Jones

    Box Car Jones New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Warburton Vic
    I ran mine "on" and disconnected the tubes for a few months but still have an unpleasant oily smell when I reconnected. Is there anyway to treat, clean or mitigate the oil residue in the heater boxes?
     
  2. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    3,002
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    The heater boxes will still have oil in them so you need to clean them, or replace them. You could try spraying degreaser in the air holes and letting it sit a while, then wash it out and run the engine to dry them. Taking the casing off is risky as most are old and can be impossible to fit back correctly.

    Adrian
     
  3. jaybay

    jaybay Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    sydney
    The backing plate on the alternator seems to be able to be installed with the vent facing up or the vent facing down.
    I can't seem to find any info on which way it should go.
    I can't rely on how it was when i pulled it apart because lots of other stuff on the van had been installed incorrectly.
    Any clues?
    Thanks IMG_0574.JPG
     
  4. jaybay

    jaybay Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    sydney
  5. DoZy

    DoZy New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    Victoria
    Since this thread is sort of alive again-
    I'm working on the heater system myself now (its winter in Melbourne!)... I actually bought some 2nd hand cables years ago and am just getting around to it. I'm relieved to find these cables do work!

    Now, everything has gone OK up to the point where I need to remove the old cables from the conduits (tubes) under the van. And they are STUCK :eek:( Both of them. The inners are frozen and the outers just will not move.

    Digging around and it seems 71whitewesty over at TheSamba had the same problem (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=322553 <- some good info & pics here). rustbus had the same problem and ended up breaking the cable. The solution was to cable-tie the new ones on the outside.

    Are there any other suggestions for getting these cables out? If its hard to get out, how hard to get the new ones in?

    Cheers
    DoZy
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2015
  6. chewtah

    chewtah Guest

    These sort of things can have exhaust leaks that go into the heater system and quickly end up in the cabin. Is there no 12 volt fan heater available?
     
  7. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,995
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    Had one frozen some time ago. squirt CRC or equivalent into the tube and leave for a while. Pull and tug then CRC and leave for another while. It should come out eventually.
     
  8. chewtah

    chewtah Guest

    12 volt heater.jpg Are these sort of things any good ? 12 volt truck heater
     
  9. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,904
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Power = Volts x Amps

    If you have 12 Volts then at 1 Amp you get 12 Watts

    12W wouldnt keep a flea in the Sahara warm

    So - lets go to 120 Watts. and now you are chewing 10 Amps. Thats a LOT of Amps

    What is the Watts of the truck heater?

    OK - just found one on Ebay - 300W - has heavy duty fused wiring and comes with a 30 amp fuse and holder

    You will want to make sure you have some SERIOUS wires to power that baby
     
  10. chewtah

    chewtah Guest

    Well they make a variety of them, and it would circulate the cabin air through it and each pass would make it hotter.
     
  11. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,477
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    in theory.
    unfortunately the reality is likely to be that losses from the cold windows and panels[to say nothing of incoming drafts] would be greater than the 300W from heater.
    Might give some comfort to the person its directed at ??
    Also means there is an additional significant constant electrical load.

    Most heater boxes have an insulated panel inside which contains a woven material[asbestos or fibreglass??].
    I would expect most have deteriorated somewhat and may continue to stink for some considerable time if contaminated with oil or degreaser.
    plenty of solvents that may get rid of the oil but obviously it will not be a job done in situ.
    Probably the pick of solvents for dunking to remove oil would be Trichloroethane111. Then air dry and heat to remove all traces.
    Its listed as a 'safety solvent' :rolleyes:??? that only mean it has a high flash point.
    Very hazardous if inhaled or consumed.
    safety gear is essential.
    But it does evaporate without leaving a residue if used correctly.

    Acetone should do a similar job and easier to obtain but has a low flashpoint so be sure to air the items fully before fitting:eek:

    probably worth degreasing the external casing first to limit contamination of the good [read ,expensive]solvent when dunking.

    also, most heater boxes are usually rotten on the ends or crimps so that would need repair as well.
    plus sort the oil leak.
     
    Mr Beckstar and john doherty like this.
  12. jobell

    jobell Active Member

    Messages:
    579
    Location:
    Walwa, Victoria
    Just found this thread. Didn't know that I could have heating AND de-misting as an added bonus. What a luxury! Sadly I'm pretty sure Miss D is missing some of the expensive bits needed for this little exercise, but I'll have to do a bit of a reccy and see what's actually there. I live in hope.
     
    Mr Beckstar likes this.
  13. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,612
    Location:
    newcastle
    Well here's a thread revival from me:). If your heater boxes stink of oil & the above fixes don't work just lay under your bus & find where the 'flap' that controls the heater function is & throw some air freshener gel blocks down into the heater boxes:D. Smells like a rose if that's the aroma you chose;).
    Cheers
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019
    Mr Beckstar and TeeBee like this.
  14. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,154
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Rejuvenation of heating system, including de-oiling of heater boxes, is also on Harry's to-do list. Hopefully I'll have it done by next winter :oops:
     
    David H likes this.
  15. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,154
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
  16. Cherry76

    Cherry76 New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    Aldgate, SA
  17. Nozza

    Nozza Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Location:
    Let out but unforgiving
    I'll chip in here, our heater system is a mystery.
    All the stuff is correct at the back, we have replaced all the cables, so everything should work.
    But, we have three levers on the dash, one blue and two red.
    In simple terms, what are they meant to do?
    It would be nice to have cool outside air coming in, no heat at times.
    At other times, it would be nice to have warm air coming in, mixed or not with engine fumes.
    Best I can get I always have warm air coming out on to the dash.
    I am sure this has been covered before, but for us newbies, what are the levers meant to do?
    Assuming everything is connected as Volkswaken intended
    I will narrow it down to
    1. How do I get no heat? - this is actauly the most important thing - I can put up with being cold.
    2. How do I get heat? - screen, floor, doesn't matter.
    3. How do I control heat between screen and floor? - not critical, better if I can stop heat all together.

    At the moment we drive along on 30 plus degree days with nice warm air coming out the dash vents - that's the best I have come up with from past research on the levers, and trial and error.
    Mostly error.
     
  18. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,995
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    Blue lever is front air vent. Cool air.
    Red levers control heater. One controls amount of heat and operates the valves at the heat ex-changers on the exhausts. On maximum setting the booster fan kicks in. The other red lever controls the distribution, feet, window demist, rear. Manual or drivers handbook will give more detail.
     
    Grantus likes this.
  19. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,625
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Worth checking that the spring clips are all there.......there should be one that locates all the cables together, just under the dash levers and another that holds the cables to the front chassis wall, interior. Both are easily seen....but if they aren’t there, the levers won’t actuate the appropriate flaps that direct the hot/cold air.
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  20. Nozza

    Nozza Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Location:
    Let out but unforgiving
    So assuming in the 45 years since the bus left the factory, the manual and the drivers handbook may have been misplaced,
    Blue lever - what does it do in the up position, what does it do when down.?
    Left hand red lever, what does it do when up, what does it do when down?
    Right hand red lever, you might be getting a feel for what I am asking here, but what does it do when up, what does it do when down?
    This should not be top secret stuff
     

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