The wheels on my bus go.......

Discussion in 'T3 & T4 Tech Help Clinic' started by BUS_TER, Feb 16, 2018.

  1. BUS_TER

    BUS_TER Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Hey there fellow T3 experts,
    I need some direction. Ive ordered my Gowesty springs and compatible Fox shocks (haven't arrived yet) so now I am looking at rims and tyres. I've read previous posts and with no experience tried to understand the Jargon spilled out in those threads.

    Researched other sites and have found pictures with the look that I want but are unsure of how to proceed with suitable rim size and tyres. I want 16" rims (happy with alloy) but will I really find it that hard to get a matching stud pattern? I was told by Eastern Wheel Works that I would need a 5 x 112 stud pattern and 6" or 6.5" with +35 or +38 offset.........again Jargon!! Or that they could convert a 114.3 pattern to a 112 pattern.

    I just want 16" rims that look awesome with BFG AT KO2's. Found a website in the UK that do 16" Rims but they're UK and my shipping bill for this month is out of control.
    https://www.wheelbasealloys.com/alloy-wheels/volkswagen/transporter/t3-t25/16-inch

    Bob Jane said they have found me a 17" Rim with a Yohokama AT.......but hang on 17"!!! Opens a can of worms for my small mechanical brain....Would these effect my speedo, put strain on my engine (2.1), clearances and so on.

    Bloody struth flamin hell.........The wheels on my bus go............wait! Aint goin no-where at present let alone round and round. This guy has 17's. 17 Rims.JPG 17 Rims 2.JPG
     
  2. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,717
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Learn the jargon or most likely suffer the consequences.

    You are changing from stock so need to be sure the new combination fits.

    Check out relevent sites.
    Ratwell prob has some for starters.
     
  3. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,893
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    If you go 16" you will have to upgrade the brakes and first gear will be very tall. Speedo would be out as well.

    215/75x15 would be the largest that I would go without changing anything.
     
  4. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,767
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    If you are going 16"wheels go with 215 /60/ 16's or at largest 215 x 65 x 16.

    My Merc wheels fit perfect with 215/ 60 tyres and clear everything but they are ET23.

    I have seen alloy wheels of the 16 Merc variety up to Et37 but they just fit.

    Remember the larger the offset the further in the wheels come into the wheel arch - which is very confusing.

    In NSW you are not allowed to fit spacers to correct the offset.

    You will almost certainly need longer rear studs and longer front bolts to ensure your wheels stay on your T3 whilst in motion.

    Merc wheel centre bore is 66.7mm so will comfortably clear the hubs. Audi wheels wont and will need machining but the Audi PCD is 112 same as VW and the hole bore is 14mm same as VW.

    Merc wheel bolt holes are only 12mm so will need drilling out. Easy job.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2018
    Grantus likes this.
  5. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,151
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    And further to Scott’s valid advice, ^^^, you will also more than likely need the Centrebore enlarged to fit over the huge front grease caps.
     
  6. BUS_TER

    BUS_TER Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Right.....learn jargon...OK.
    Ensure wheels stay on whilst in motion.......sounds pretty important.

    Has anyone done the 114.3 to 112 stud pattern conversion. If so is it expensive or a big deal?

    Was told today that I can have the speedo re-geared. Will ask my mechanic on Monday about the brake upgrade for 16".

    Took a photo of my placard, could someone please fill in the blanks. I assume the top is 5 1/2 J x (14??) Rim. No idea what the second tyre option is.

    IMG_1534.jpg
     
  7. BUS_TER

    BUS_TER Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Thanks Grantus, I did read that and once I have found a wheel Im happy with, will ask about the Centrebore. Being that I am new to this whole restoration / T3 love affair I am noticing / learning that nothing is easy. My mechanic today after spending all day yesterday stripping down my engine said that there was basically nothing worth keeping. Case is shot, head studs - shot, Heads -Fkd, Cams, big bearing and shafts no good. He did say my exhasut was good - wowee.

    Said that he had found hammer beaten and filing marks and silastic all over the head. Surprised he didnt find a dead gopher in there. Oh well, hopefully it will be a brand spanker in a few weeks time.
     
  8. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,893
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    Is this a syncro or a 2WD?

    There are very few wheels that can have the PCD changed. In NSW it must be done by an authourised wheel repairer the same with any machining.

    16" wheels with BFG ATs are going to be a tight fit. You will need to have a good offset.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2018
  9. peter915

    peter915 Active Member

    Messages:
    634
    Location:
    Sunshine coast
    Mate you need to be careful here with the wheels, it might look trendy but big wheels and tires will make the vehicle undriveable. You won't enjoy driving it.
    Ditto what Scott has said.
    Apart from that, the transaxle in these vans is the weak link in the equation, they were never a strong box with just standard wheels let alone with large rims.
    Just get the thing mechanically sorted then worry about appearances.
     
  10. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,151
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Haven’t, and personally wouldn’t. Not only the expense, but it has to weaken the rims.

    Look for a 5 stud 112 PCD as a starting point, and an ET between 25 and 39. (less things to do to make them fit), before then investigating the cost of the rest of the work to make them safely “stay on whilst in motion”. ;)
     
  11. nils

    nils Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,358
    Location:
    newcastle
    I have done the 114.3 to 112 conversion.
    Most engineering shops can do it, really not a big deal, 14 years ago it cost me $50 a wheel.
    Most earlier ford rims (114.3) are ET35 which is pretty good for a 16" rim. But be aware of the center bore otherwise your machining cost will soon get out of control.

    Stick to looking for mercedes rims bewteen ET 25-35 and you'll be happy
     
  12. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,893
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    It is illegal in NSW. It must be done by a wheel manufacturer/repairer.

    I went to a repairer get some T4 steel wheels modified to fit a T3 in 1991. I was told that it would be unsafe so he would not do it. If that had of been a machinist he would not have known. It is a sensible rule.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2018
  13. Kombi Dad

    Kombi Dad Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,400
    Location:
    Bungendore, NSW
  14. BUS_TER

    BUS_TER Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Cheers. Seems like there's enough warnings to not go overboard. I'll be taking functionality and safety over appearances. The right solution is yet to come but its there.
     
  15. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,151
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Perhaps an engine that works first.......to make those wheels go round and round? :(
     

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