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Tight Valve Clearance?

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by GypsyWannabe, Jul 31, 2007.

  1. chellejohno

    chellejohno Member

    Messages:
    209
    Location:
    Boorowa, NSW
    tis the season all right!

    at least i know i'm not alone. bought a 75 camper a month or so ago with a seized motor(1800). so yesterday i pulled it out and today started stripping it.pulled off heads and barrels but motor still won't turn more than about 10 degrees. so looks as if i'm going to have to split it. what i can't get over is the amount of tinware thats now sitting in a pile on the workbench! Man, i don't think i'll ever remember where all that goes! great to know theres others in the same boat as me, we can all drown together.LOL cheers John
     
  2. Organichead

    Organichead New Member

    Messages:
    232
    Location:
    Adelaide Hills, SA
    Righto Baz, it appears you may be slightly ahead of me as I'm in the process of doing some bits and bobs to the missus beetle.(no engine stuff)

    No reason to take the 'thing' out yourself cause I'm in. May need a bit of backup on the tech but I'll be very useful on the eating and drinkin' !. Oh and i'll have 'the book' soon too. Give me a shout when its a goer, or perhaps blood and ale will start in the mountains first.

    I bet we'll end up thinking we should have had the gonads to do this a while ago. Looking forward to it.

    Kommodius: Yep, you called it and I quote," Feel the force".............. Hmmm!....new things afoot!

    Kombikid76: Thanks geezer, sounds as though you can do this with your eyes shut. As Baz said "some photo's would be handy". I guess we'll let you now what photo's when the engine has been located!!.

    Righto Baz my bbq's warming up, and so is the ale.
     
  3. Organichead

    Organichead New Member

    Messages:
    232
    Location:
    Adelaide Hills, SA
    John, how you doing. Sounds asthough your well started judging by the ammount of 'tinware' you've got laying around. But, you really should be drinking out of bottles or glasses. Look forward to your comments in this thread to see how its going.

    Don't forget to recycle your tins.
     
  4. kombikid76

    kombikid76 New Member

    Messages:
    652
    Location:
    sunny sydney
    dont really need any special tools to take the engine out

    just a trolley jack some bits of wood (if you have a small jack) and some bricks.

    I put my bus up on ramps, gives you a bit more room to work underneath it but the trade off is the angle the engine sits at. before you start playing with the wiring disconnect the earth lead from the battery.

    Anyways, what you do is disconnect everything running from the body to the engine ( wiring ontop of engine, fuel line from tank, accelerator cable, brake booster line, heaters, ground strap on transmission and the wire running from the alternator to the starter... i always seem to forget this one till the last minute). Now you have to remove the rear left piece of the tinware, the coil, the oil filler and rear bumper ( all of these unless you taking the transmission out at the same time) and put your jack (with bits of wood if its small) under the engine and jack it up so that the engine is mainly supported by it.

    Then you take off the 4 13mm bolts holding the cross member in. These will slide out when you have the engine weight supported but no more (ie pushing the car up).

    Then you remove the 2 17mm bolts above the flywheel (will need to remove the air cleaner for this unless you have tiny hands) the one on the passenger side of the car will need to have a spanner on the gearbox side, the one on the drivers side has a half moon sorta shape so u just need to push it into its hole with your finger to stop it spinning. Then pull the bolts (shud slide out remember).

    Then you remove the two nuts from the studs below the flywheel (17mm).

    The engine is free now, so do one last final check that you have disconnected everything (ive probably forgot some things here so feel free to add to the list)

    You want the main supporting bit of wood to extend past the heat exchangers, stack you bricks up slightly rearward of below this bit of wood.

    Now start to roll the engine back using the exhaust to wiggle, keep a keen eye out for anything still connected to the engine. When the 4 main engine bolts clear the gearbox you will feel the engine become very unstable if your using a small jack so be ready for it. Once youve got it clear and balanced get another helper to slowly let down your jack (be careful with hydraulic jacks they tend to drop real quick with only 1/8th of a turn on the bleed bolt). Then slowly let it down and guide it so the wood is resting on the bricks. Then you can remove your extra pieces of wood you used to get extra height from you small jack. Jack the jack back up and now you shud clear the rear valance and the engine is out.


    This is a very brief description of what to do. a few points not to forget are: *once you have your engine bolts undone its a good idea not to get under the engine... think about where it will fall and if you will be hurt.

    *keep checking for things you havent disconnected, it can be an expensive mistake.

    * the engine weights about 150 (type 4)
     
  5. GypsyWannabe

    GypsyWannabe Active Member

    Messages:
    3,030
    Location:
    Quakers Hill, Sydney
    Wow! Thanks for that - some great info there! I'm sure with that post printed out, the John Muir book (from the library or I finally get around to buying one), the Bentley manual, maybe a Haynes or Gregory's manual thrown in for good measure, the online help here at the KC forums and the Sydney KC members helping drink my ale and share Kombi blood, we just might get there!

    One thing... if I put the bus up on ramps (I will have to buy some), how would I get the bus back down off them after I've removed the engine? (So I can get the garage door closed). Or would I be better just using jack stands?

    How long does the whole job take, including getting bits re-machined or whatever you have to do and putting the motor back in? I will probably have to multiply the time by 7.5!!!!

    By the way, I can't see myself tackling this until after the soccer season, around mid-September.

    Baz
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2007
  6. kommodius

    kommodius Active Member

    My current heart surgery doesn't really count 'cos I was on my own and had no working trolley jack, but the last engine removal had working trolley jacks and other hands and perfect tools.
    Tiprat, ttmck and I (okay, mostly ttmck and his air tools!) pulled the engine, did the pushrod seals, had the flywheel machined, and replaced the clutch in 24 hours real-time, with 4 & a half hours actual working time on the car, from 1st jack to raise her up to last jack to lower her down for the road test. The delay was due to waiting for the machining. (ttmck's machinist offered to do it that night but we said no because it seemed too rude!)

    It doesn't take long Baz. I'll pull the engine to do a job that's just easier to do with the engine out even though some manuals will suggest doing it with the engine in.
    I don't know what the record for engine removal is for a Type IV but for a Type I it's under 2 minutes!
    My personal best is two Type 1 engines out and one in (engine swap) in 2 hours, on my own with a trolley jack.

    If your bus is on ramps without a donk, you can push it off, but think about putting the engine back in again. If you pulled the donk using ramps (I don't) then you may need to leave it on ramps to but it back.

    Take your time mate. Think it through. Plan your procedures and GO FOR IT!!

    Ray & da Boyz

    ps only use a recommended machinist
     
  7. GypsyWannabe

    GypsyWannabe Active Member

    Messages:
    3,030
    Location:
    Quakers Hill, Sydney
    Well, I'm not exactly sure what a machinist does, or how to find one. I assume a machinist is needed to remachine the heads? If so, do they need to be a VW specialist? Cos I have a contact through soccer who has a local business called Sam's Head Shed or something. S'pose I could give him a ring.

    Anyway at the moment, I still can't start it, so I can't turn it around to drop the engine anyway. :)

    Baz
     
  8. kommodius

    kommodius Active Member

    C'mon Sydneysiders, who's the best machinist for Baz to talk to?
    Move to Adelaide Baz. You'll have no troubles! :D

    Ray & da Boyz
     
  9. kombikid76

    kombikid76 New Member

    Messages:
    652
    Location:
    sunny sydney
    the hard thing about doing rebuilds is you really dont know what needs doing until you have it apart.

    i think the first rebuild i did we waited like 2 months for some heads after the first guy stuffed them...

    if your bottom end is fine and you just want to get it running you could just slap some new heads on which would take very little time if they are all ready to go.

    I use stands because its easier to get under the bus (lowered) to play around with connections etc and it means i dont have to pull the carbys off.

    Since your going to be doing a rebuild you will be taking the carbys off you cud do without stands/ramps.

    I leave my bus up on the ramps until ive got the engine back in (double garage makes it easier). Getting the bus off the ramps would be the easy part, getting it bak on would be very hard.

    as for head machinist's in syd i dont have any contacts, but im sure some other on this forum or some other vw forums would be able to recommend who they use.

    heads dont weigh much so postage around aus to get the work done wouldnt be too expensive (relative to cost of work). But make sure they have good rep in the vw world... dont just use the corner machinist who cracks your heads trying to hammer out the valve guides!!!
     
  10. Bay_Buddha

    Bay_Buddha Member

    Messages:
    395
    Location:
    Berowra Heights,North of Sydney
    Give me a call!

    Hey Baz... I sent your a PM!

    Phill.
     
  11. GypsyWannabe

    GypsyWannabe Active Member

    Messages:
    3,030
    Location:
    Quakers Hill, Sydney
    Thanks Phil,

    I have replied.

    You guys are going to twist my arm until I drop this motor, aren't you? :) :)

    Wait until the wife finds out!!! :eek: :eek:

    Baz
     
  12. GypsyWannabe

    GypsyWannabe Active Member

    Messages:
    3,030
    Location:
    Quakers Hill, Sydney
    I rang Custom Bugs and Buses at Penrith today.
    http://www.cbbvw.com/index2.html
    For a reconditioned 1800 they quoted: $2090 (+GST) for the engine and $880 (+GST) for labour and said to allow $100 or so for things like oil, filters etc.

    So, all up, under $3500.

    Baz
     

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