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Tinware heat seals..?

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by Ian and Shelley, Aug 21, 2019.

  1. Ian and Shelley

    Ian and Shelley Active Member

    Messages:
    347
    Location:
    Umina Beach
    Hi again


    Can anyone advise a simple and permanent fix to replacing the heat seals around the heater tubes / Alternator and other small areas where tinware is either bent and distorted or leaking hot air through small gaps.

    I see its possible to buy rubber grommets for all of these area's but is there a simple cheap fix?
    I have previously purchased and replaced the air hose seals but they fell out due to bent tinware which didn't hold it all in place.

    Can we not simply tape or install a flexible rubber or foam to seal these gaps?

    Also...Do these small gaps really effect the cooling of the engine?

    Thanks

    Ian and Shelley
     
  2. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,154
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Sealing the tinware is definitely good for your engine. All the recommendations from all the experts are to make sure the tinware is sealed well.
     
  3. Ian and Shelley

    Ian and Shelley Active Member

    Messages:
    347
    Location:
    Umina Beach
  4. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,154
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    It should be fitted, but it’s a part that had a particular problem with rusting away so it’s missing on a lot of them. I found it didn’t make a lot of difference to engine oil temperature when I fitted mine, but I’d suggest that all these components are small pieces that go together to make a bigger difference. Everything needs to be right to get the best out of your Kombi.
     
    David H likes this.
  5. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    986
    Location:
    Canberra
    Hi Ian, there's a lot of Kombis getting around without that heat shield...but best to find one or make one... For the rest of the gaps, either grommets, bend the tinware back to original shape or high temp silicone should seal up fine. Patrick
     
    David H and Mr Beckstar like this.
  6. Ian and Shelley

    Ian and Shelley Active Member

    Messages:
    347
    Location:
    Umina Beach
    Thanks all

    I had no idea about the exhaust heat shield, I often thought it gets very hot around the exhaust and where did all that heat go?

    Looks like a few purchases are needed..

    Thanks again
     
    Mr Beckstar likes this.
  7. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,519
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Without the heat shield the foam engine seal deteriorates quickly.
    Spending a bit of time straightening tinware is worth the effort.
    It pays to be pretty anal about keeping the hot air out.
     
    Mr Beckstar, David H and rstucke like this.
  8. Ian and Shelley

    Ian and Shelley Active Member

    Messages:
    347
    Location:
    Umina Beach
    Thanks again...

    Extra question...does having the engine bay heater fan blower turned on blow out hot air to assist with engine cooling..

    I have already disconnected hoses to interior due to previous engine fumes issue (now resolved) so I won't be heating the interior and gassing or cooking passengers..

    I once owned a Mk1 ford escort and often needed thetheheater heater on full to reduce the engine water temp..does a similar effect occur with the kombi heater fan?

    Thanks
     
    Mr Beckstar likes this.
  9. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,519
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Not really.
    The fan is to boost hot air flow to heater, primarily at low revs.
    It blows thru heater box .
    There are already ducts off the engine fan housing that bleed air off thru the heater boxes when heater is off.
    This vents thru the " mushrooms" on ducts near forward of heater boxes when heater is turned off.
    This reduces radiated heat from heater boxes to heads etc.

    It is worth checking that the flaps on the engine fan housing are in position and operational.
    Blanked off means no cooling air to boxes.
    None means that there's a remote possibility of blowing boosted hot air into engine cooling air .
    I would be dubious that enough air from booster fan could exist to overcome the main fan flow but the suggestion has been made.
    Clarification would be handy if anyone has seen evidence to support either .

    Also check that flaps in booster fan are in place
     
    Mr Beckstar likes this.

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