Tips for cleaning engine fan

Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by Chidori, Dec 5, 2014.

  1. Barra

    Barra Member

    Messages:
    264
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Hi Folks,

    the hot weather is here and Marmalade doesn't like it. Might be time to check the oil cooler also. Is it "just" a matter or removing the foam seal, the tinware and fan housing or does it get really difficult? I can't/won't take the motor out, way beyou my abilities.

    Barra
     
  2. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    876
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    I ended up taking out the exhaust, heat exchangers and alternator as well as the bits that you mentioned.
    You might be able to see the top of the oil cooler by just removing the left tinware. Can't remember.
    Or try an inspection camera. About $25 on eBay that connects to a laptop.
     
  3. Barra

    Barra Member

    Messages:
    264
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Thanks for that, did it take very long to take all that stuff off?
     
  4. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    876
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Not really. I had one but get stuck that took hours to get off. But apart from that it's pretty straight forward.
     
  5. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    876
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Fan, shroud alternator and new oil cooler back in. New oil filter port gasket and new rear oil seal in. Hopefully this weekend the heater boxes, exhaust and tin ware go back in.
    Hard work when you're working on the street 500m from your house! You try not to drink too much water otherwise I keep having to run home for toilet breaks!!
     
  6. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,671
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    good work.
    dont forget to replace bolts with new ones unless they are very good nick. Anti seize on threads. New studs on heater boxes [you knew you would have another use for that stud remover ]
    guess the floor of kombi looks like a garage tool bench :)
     
  7. Barra

    Barra Member

    Messages:
    264
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Hi folks,

    I've got the fan out and the tinware, does the exhaust have to come out (does that mean heater boxes too?) and with the lower part of the oil filler tube, do I have to take that off (and should I have drained the oil before I started)?

    Well, it's good learning experience, I'm glad you folks blazed the trail:)

    Barra
     
  8. Barra

    Barra Member

    Messages:
    264
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Good news,
    Fan housing out, gave it a good clean, oil cooler looks fine. Doesn't seem to have the standard cooling flap set up as described in the Bentley Bible. There's no flap on the right side and the flap over the oil cooler is riveted into place (hopefully at the most effective angle?????

    As I don't run the heater (fan isn't even connected) are there any places I should be blocking off in the tin ware / heat exchanges etc?
    I'll have to order the dip stick rubber thing as mine has a hole in it. So won't be reassembling until until next weekend :(

    Have a good week, any suggestions always welcome.

    Barra
     
  9. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    876
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Good work mate! Halfway there! Might as well order a few more seals while you're there. Oil filter port gasket, rear oil seal, you could replace the engine mounts, oil cooler seals and oil pump gaskets.
     
  10. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,671
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Barra shouldnt need those as engine hasnt done many miles. check with Pete.

    check that the heater boxes into engine bay are sealed tho. expect they are.

    what temps are you getting?

    with weather around 40c last few weeks its bound to elevate temps a bit
     
  11. Barra

    Barra Member

    Messages:
    264
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Hi CBUS,
    It has been hot and temps got just over 110c, even after an extended sump. Which bits do I need to seal? Anything to stop hot air going where it isn't required. As mentioned, never intend to use the heater. :)
     
  12. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,671
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    If the 110c was on days over 35 and at 95-100klm/hr but lower to around 100c on days up to 30c and at 90km.hr i wouldnt be too worried
    The ideal, in my view,would be closer to 90-100c on 30c day at 100km/hr but all engines are different.
    just check that the tinware is an effective separation between hot underneath and cool inside engine bay.
    ie bungs in all holes. the riser pipes that come up from heater boxes should be blanked off and seals around them to tinware. [air cooled engines can benefit from having the fan and hoses connected to the heater boxes and cold air blowing thru them but flap to front heater closed . air bypasses but it cools the heater boxes and its another hot spot near heads lessened ] usualy this isnt done because the heater flaps and cables need sorting.
    Ensure air filter is getting cool air. Makes a big difference to power on a hot day.
    Have a shield in place between exhaust and tinware . you will notice that the tinware under /to rear of fan intake is directly over the exhaust. I have ceramic turbo shield between the exhaust and tinware , then reflective insulation inside the same area. think original temp on inner of tin was around 80+ but now its about 40c or less. has to help?
    Keep your tyre pressures up.
    They are baggy so 40 rear and 36 front wouldnt be out of place.
    seals in place around alternator.
    spark plug rubbers sealing.
     
  13. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,636
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    Barra, Look for Kai's post regarding the dipstick bellows. If he hasnt got any left I am thinking I might do an order for some and some pushrod tube seals. The freight is expensive but the parts are cheap. The dipstick bellows is under $4:00 American for example.

    I just might add that there are some shortcuts for removing the fan housing if you want to clean the inside and inspect the oil cooler. You do not need to take out the alternator although it does make it easier, takes me 15-20 mins with the right tools (in a beach campsite) . If it is the right one the bolt on the bottom of the alternator is a special with a 13mm nut and should be easy as to undo with a ring spanner or ratchet spanner. You do not need to take off the muffler but you will need to make 2 cuts in the heater boxes once you remove the cover between the the fan housing and the heater box and then you can bend the back side down and slide the housing back. Bend it back up once it is all in place and the screw for the cover on each side will hold it closed.

    I have just done exactly this to fix an oil cooler flap that had been installed under the 2 shelves that it is supposed to rest on in the warm position. It now operates properly.

    Adrian
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015
  14. Barra

    Barra Member

    Messages:
    264
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Thank Adria,

    Sent Kai a PM.

    How far open is the flap for the oil cooler when at operating temperature?

    Barra
     
  15. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,636
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    It is actually closed at the cylinder head end of the when operating but opens to around 20mm when cold to let air bypass over the cylinders. It has a little link bar on the flap rod to move it.

    Adrian
     
  16. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    876
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Ah sorry didn't realise Barra's engine wasn't a crusty old has been like mine!

    I've just put my flaps back in and can't remember the correct settings for them. From the back of the engine if I'm twisting the rod back towards me, is that the correct way?
     
  17. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    876
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    So, I should also report that we got it all back together and took it for a test drive yesterday down to airey's inlet. Maximum temp at 100kph was 109c to which is 20c cooler than before! When off the freeway temps were about 90-100! So happy that I could fix something myself that 4 different vw specialist mechanics never even suggested could be a problem.
     
  18. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,671
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    yours was certainly an extreeme example. The excess of oil was a good indicator of cleaning needed but i didnt think of the cooler being that bad so its a good lesson learned for all of us.
    even tho Barras isnt a high mileage engine its common for rebuilds to have a flushed out cooler so its still a good check when all other items have been ticked off with no improvement. I would expect a new cooler to perform better than an old one under most circumstances.
     
  19. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,671
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    what was ambient temp?
     
  20. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,636
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    The tab that the thermostat links to should be straight up when at operating temp and moves forward by up to 45 degrees when cold and pulls by the thermostat.

    Adrian
     

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