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Tips for cleaning engine fan

Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by Chidori, Dec 5, 2014.

  1. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Not sure of ambient temp. Maybe 20-25c.
    So much better than it was. Guaranteed prior to new cooler would have been oil temp of 130+ so I'm a very happy boy. I ended up throwing out the exhaust heat shield because it was rusted through with exposed asbestos. Looking for a heat shield alternative. Maybe a exhaust wrap or turbo tape.
     
  2. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,688
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    I have also noticed a dramatic reduction in temperature after sorting the oil cooler flap to the correct position. On a hard run up a long hill temperature goes to around a 105 and then drops back to just above the 100 mark, where as on the trip down the highway and reasonably level we were topping 120+ and around town 115 to 120. Ambient temp was a couple of degrees lower at around 20, and the previous time was around 23. I will have to try some trips over a longer period to confirm the official improvements but this is definitely heading in the right direction.

    Adrian
     
  3. Barra

    Barra Member

    Messages:
    264
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Hi Folks,

    just two question in relation to the atatched photos:
    1: in the photo with the oil cooler flap is 30mm the right opening at operating temp (if you could read the tape that is what it says)?;
    2: in the second photo, as I don't use the heaters, should I seal these openings?
    Thanks again for your time


    Barra oil cooler flap 30mm in fixed position (small photo).jpg Opening for heater pipe (small photo).jpg
     
  4. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,688
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    Its a bit hard to tell with the pic, as the flap need to be sitting in the pivots mounted in the fan housing. The basic idea is at operating temp the cylinder side should be touching the area on the cylinder side of the oil cooler. With a thermostat fitted the flap is raised when cold, thereby limiting the air from the fan by reducing the amount of air "under" the flap (because of the 20mm section on the other side of the pivot, or below the pivot clip in the picture) and directing any air going under the flap through over the oil cooler through the now around 30mm gap at the other end of the flap and then over the cylinders.

    As for blocking those heater outlets, fit a couple of the original risers to the exchangers with the heater valves fitted to them as it will restore the right amount of resistance to the bleed air off the bottom of the fan housing. This also helps to reduce the heat in the exchangers which also reduces the heat load up the exhaust pipes and into the head. The original valves have a venting system to redirect the air from the heater tubes to the front when the valves were shut.

    There was a lot of thinking went into the design.

    Adrian
     
  5. Gordon D

    Gordon D Active Member

    Messages:
    270
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Thanks for this post being here - have dropped my motor to do a bit of 'reconditioning' so thought I better clean everything while it's out and the inside of my fan casing looked like yours ... scrapers, degreaser and effort at least has made it presentable ;)
     
  6. Gordon D

    Gordon D Active Member

    Messages:
    270
    Location:
    Brisbane
    One question I have (and can't find an answer anywhere else so far) - when reassembling the fan shroud/case, is it worth gasket goo or something to create a good seal?
     
  7. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,688
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    As long as the 2 halves go together pretty snugly I wouldn't bother. We aren't talking a huge amount of pressure, just volume of air being fed through the engine. The gap behind the fan is quite large so there would be more leakage through there than you would get through the joins in the 2 parts of the housing.

    Adrian
     
    Gordon D and Barry like this.
  8. Gordon D

    Gordon D Active Member

    Messages:
    270
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Excellent - thanks Adrian ... it looked in good nick after the cleaning so should go back together nicely :)
     
  9. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,886
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Check that you have lower flaps between housing and heater boxes.
     

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