Transmission removal question

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by kool_kombi 79, Sep 17, 2017.

  1. kool_kombi 79

    kool_kombi 79 Active Member

    Messages:
    310
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Just a general question on removing the transmission. T IV engine, 091 gearbox.

    I am interested to know if it is better to remove as one or do it as a two part exercise?

    I have limited space to work and am thinking of dropping the engine in situ then the gearbox?

    Any advice would be appreciated.
     
  2. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    459
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Engine and transmission removal together are very, very heavy.
    If your going this way, you need the right gear.
    Engine out alone can be done with a floor jack (quad jack is better).
    Transmission is easy by its self
    My 2 cents
    Might be differing opinions by others
     
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  3. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    7,670
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Done it both ways....
    Personally, I think it's a lot easier to lift and install when they are both together....particularly if you don't have access to a hoist and engine lifts...
    The wriggle room, required to mate the engine to the gearbox, is limited in the engine bay of later kombis.
    With the selector shaft disconnected and the back half removed, there is ample room to lift, adjust, align bolt holes etc.
    Sure, the balance is critical to make this an easier job but if you go slowly it's a lot easier than trying to mate a slightly misaligned engine to a gearbox in place....
    Just my opinion and I have only done this about 4 times, so I'm sure others will have their "systems" too.
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
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  4. kool_kombi 79

    kool_kombi 79 Active Member

    Messages:
    310
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I now have my engine and trans out, after a few late nights after work,.

    This was my first engine pull, gearbox pull, also I was on my own, there is a few things to add that I didn't see or maybe I skimmed over that could help somebody else. This may be elementary to the experienced but can easily be over looked by the uninitiated.

    * Remove the rear bumper bar and tow bar arrangement to use a ATV jack, this will allow you to get right under the engine, I used treated pine sleeper offcuts, for weight spread on ATV jack.

    * Remove the starter motor, for access to gearbox top bolts, and rear tin 3 pieces near the fan to give pull back room.

    * Support the gearbox with a jack, towards engine end and remove top two gearbox bolts, there are 6 bolts, 4 for the engine, 2 for the top of the gear box.

    * Pull the engine back, but when going down and out, let the gearbox come down with things aswell, I got a little hing up at this point.

    * Engine needs to be out of the way for gearbox removal, as it needs to move to the rear to come out aswell, it has the shifter attachment coupling sticking out the front, you need to clear the frame.

    They were the main things that I was unaware of after reading lots of material.

    The gearbox didn't sound good, the oil wasn't in good condition, only about 15000km old.

    Some pics of a kombi, a engine and a gearbox.

    DSCN6191 15%.jpg DSCN6192 15%.jpg DSCN6193 15%.jpg DSCN6194 15%.jpg
     
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  5. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    517
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Good job
     
  6. kool_kombi 79

    kool_kombi 79 Active Member

    Messages:
    310
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I now have the gearbox back, and a few replacement parts.

    One of the issues found was a large crack in the bell housing where it bolts to the body, we were able to get another, but I was told this was the first time he had seen that.

    Looking to reassemble and fit in the next week or two.

    DSCN620915%.jpg DSCN621015%.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  7. kool_kombi 79

    kool_kombi 79 Active Member

    Messages:
    310
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Well heres a update:

    All is in and running.

    A couple of things that slowed the install down that I would like to share, these few things may seem stupid to the seasoned veteran but easy to overlook for the first timer.

    Space: As you can see in the picture it is tight in my shed, the main issue was when the van was lifted in the air and I let the jack down the van came down in a slightly different position (moving toward the shelfs in my case) which caused a issue of space and a reposition of the van a few times.

    Engine: All in all the engine went in as expected but one thing I didn't check before offering up the engine to the gearbox was the ratio of the gearbox shaft spline the the turning of the rear wheel.
    What I mean eg:
    A quarter of a turn of the rear wheel moved gearbox shaft one spline or whatever it was.
    Not knowing this I was unable to have a guess how far to rotate the spline, all this is very difficult on your own in a shed at 40 Deg C. Once things lined up I'm glad my fingers were out of the way because it came together faster than the beer to my lips that afternoon (believe me that is Fast).

    Due to the above issue I took the engine bar ends off thinking that they may be stopping things Don't take the engine bar ends off as once the engine and box are together they wont fit back on.

    Take your time and fit new matching bolts washers, hoses clamps, fix wires do all that stuff, anybody who says that they can do this in a hour is not going to do any of this sort of maintenance.

    Alternator: All wires are HOT on the starter motor, all wires to go onto the outside bolt of the solenoid.
    It did my head in trying to work out that one.

    ATV Jack: Best thing ever, combined with a couple of bits of wood to spread the weight, just be very gentle on the lowering, these things are faster than Flash Gordon on the way down.

    Fuel pump: leave the top outer screw off the heat duct that runs right next to the pump, you will thank me when the pump has to come off and the engine is in. Doing this allows you to remove the bottom two screws on the heat duct and swing it out of the way, allowing access to the top pump bolt.

    When fitting a fuel pump hook up all the hoses, NEW, then pump the lever to prime everything, or you will be taking it apart and priming after the engine splutters to a stop. Take the hose off at the TEE in the engine bay and put a tuna tin under it to catch the fuel when you prime it.

    That is about all that comes to mind, I'll add some more if I remember anything else.
     
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  8. SunnyJim

    SunnyJim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,386
    Location:
    carindale Brisbane
    Did you look at the shiftrods and bushings?
    Perfect opportunity when the gearbox is out
     
  9. kool_kombi 79

    kool_kombi 79 Active Member

    Messages:
    310
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Gearbox coupling was done, did the set screw up nice and tight then wired it on using the small hole in the set screw.

    One thing I did't count on was the rubber belows that went onto the end of the gearbox selector shaft, I didn't have one, I machined up a plastic end cap so I could put a oring onto the shaft grease inside the cup knock it onto the gearbox housing then clamp it, this should keep the dirt out of the seal.
     
  10. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,604
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    Only one little note about the Alternator heading, you really mean Starter motor and there is one wire in that are that doesn't go on to the outer bolt, the slide connector to the solenoid itself.

    Well done, nice and comprehensive.

    Adrian
     
  11. kool_kombi 79

    kool_kombi 79 Active Member

    Messages:
    310
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Yes you are right it is talking about the starter.

    The story goes 6 months before when the gear box exploded I was looking around under and found the alternator wire touching the heat exchange and the outer protective sheath was melting, in a rush I took it off put a new sheath on and repositioned, this then created what I call the "great alternator wire mix up of the decade", I was rushing and put it on the wrong side of the starter.

    6 months down the track and 500 pictures later to make sure all wires go on in the correct position.

    You can see where this is going, I'm not a auto electrician's big toe, so a lot of head scratching and problem solving, and so the comment still stands in the alternator/starter section ALL RING LOOP WIRES ON STARTER ARE HOT AND TO OUTSIDE BOLT.

    But yes this info is starter related aswell. :)
     
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