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Valve adjustment for smarties!

Discussion in ''How To' & 'Handy Hints'' started by Schmoburger, Jan 20, 2007.

  1. torquenut

    torquenut New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Metric Age

    For those of us with metric feelers, .20 = 0.006inch. On the inlets of my type 2, 1800, we run .20mm on both inlet and exhaust in winter. In summer, we run the Exhaust at 0.25mm. This extra gap allows the valve more contact time with the head and (my theory) allows the valve to cool a bit more. You may loose a bit of performance, but a loose tappet is always better than a tight one. If they are tight, hot gasses can slip past the valve edge and burn them out.
    Go Kombi:)
     
  2. kombicrazy

    kombicrazy Member

    Messages:
    59
    Location:
    Derrinallum
    valve setting

    im no expert, but i set mine at 6 thou, but when travelling in hotter conditions, ie summer in melb or up in NT or QLD, i set them out to 8 thou.......makes a slight chatter but still get enough power and no chance of pulling a valve thru....
     
  3. Schmoburger

    Schmoburger Active Member

    Messages:
    4,381
    Location:
    Nowra/Jervis Bay area, NSW.
    I get the felling mine are around 12 right now... the noise driving up Black Mountain is terrible!

    have to adjust sometime soon!
     
  4. BrianK

    BrianK Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,238
    Location:
    Mount Gambier, SA
    Baz im the same as you i think, totaly confused. but now i have it under control, i think. :lol: to much reading over and over. I also think i set to the wrong mark that was on there, there was white, purple and yellow. i think i have it all correct as well, with just white only. Now to start all over again. no skun knuckles yet, just a blood blister from those darn covers. :lol:
     
  5. GypsyWannabe

    GypsyWannabe Active Member

    Messages:
    3,032
    Location:
    Quakers Hill, Sydney
    Brian - I've gone with the John Muir book - I find it very easy to understand. I refer to the Bentley manual if I need photos.

    Cheers,

    Baz
     
  6. dbs

    dbs Member

    Messages:
    949
    Location:
    Melbourne
    and if you do this,.... be careful to turn it ssslllloooowwwlllyyyy,.... last thing you want is for it to fire with a spanner attached. Yes it is not likely to happen, but it can,... and you don't want that.
    ;)
     
  7. BrianK

    BrianK Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,238
    Location:
    Mount Gambier, SA

    Baz, i got a bit lost with kierens post. i finished up finding what to do in the samba forum. i even done it mate. I have manuals but to hard to read.
     
  8. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
  9. spearsy

    spearsy Active Member

    Messages:
    1,112
    Location:
    sydney
    once you have set no.1 cylinder you can rotate the engine 180 degrees in an anti clockwise direction and do no.2 cylinder which is on the same side as no.1 so you cando one side at a time.you then do no.3 when you turn anti clockwise again 180 degees and so on for no.4.
    the engine fires as 1 4 3 2 so by going anti clockwise you are doing it as 1 2 3 4.
    cheers,hope this helps.
     
  10. jon ward

    jon ward Active Member

    Messages:
    5,759
    Location:
    Travelling Australia
    Thats how I learnt to do it.

    Quick and easy.
     
  11. Split 1

    Split 1 New Member

    Messages:
    7,037
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Chro-molly no gap

    Dave
     
  12. Split 1

    Split 1 New Member

    Messages:
    7,037
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Yep if you can spin it in your finger's is good

    Dave
     
  13. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,339
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
     
  14. london_mike

    london_mike New Member

    Messages:
    350
    Location:
    VIC 3071
    Got to step 10 then had to put it all back together again and go and buy a feeler gauge.:rolleyes:

    Heh. Not really. :lol:
     
  15. wowkombi

    wowkombi New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Brunswick, VIC
    Hi all, from nom on I will always check the wear on the tappets before adjusting! Actually, I will not assume anything anymore with my 2 ltr CJ engine, thanks to PO.

    I discovered the exhaust valve tappet screw on cyl 2 had EXCESSIVELY worn out. The valve had actually hammered a depression in the screw! As I was short of a replacement and needed to get going, I filed the screw back to a flat(ish) face. After driving 250 km, I checked and replaced all screws: The same screw had a ~1mm depression again (noticed the loss of power compared to 250 km ago).

    There was similar wear on the cyl 4 exhaust screw. The other 8 screws showed some form of wear, but nothing like those 2 exhaust screws. (photo attached)

    So, I was wondering why the exhaust tappet screws could wear out so much more than the others? All exhaust valve stem ends had minor pitting on them, but all inlet valves ends looked smooth.

    Apart from the source of excessive wear issue, I'm concerned I have replaced the screws with the WRONG type and I need help to figure out which ones are right. The old screws look like the ones used with hydraulic lifters. The ones I put in are for the 1.8-2ltr engine.

    How can I find out what cylinder heads / cam shaft I have. The engine code is CJ, but I think the PO had heavily modified the engine...
     

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    Last edited: Jan 2, 2016

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