This is always one of the great posts. Everyone has an oil tip to tell you so you are still none the wiser.I have used valvoline xld for all my vehicles in the past 20 years or so. The funny thing is when you book your vehicle into a service centre for a service, you dont get what you want you just get what ever 44 gallon drum that they use, unless you tell them and buy your said oil. I finished up putting 20,50 penrite in bessie before we sold it. When purchased the now Max, the paper work from Grant said 10, 40 fuchs. Then checking through some of the receipts, i noticed 20, 50. on the invoices. So i have decided as seeing as how the motor has done heaps of ks, i am now using or putting 20,50 penrite into the fellow. I dont think any one can ever tell you the correct oil to use. just my 2 bobs worth.
Oil I use penrite hpr 40 Mick from Micks motors said it's a good oil for vws , I haven;t had any problems in my 2lt
Been looking into this a bit more and i think the ace 30 seems to be a good oil for aircooled. what i'm told is that aircooled oil should have a good level of zinc and ace seems to be the highest i can find so far. not sure of the price for this oil so i'll have to ring mick motors and see what they sell it for.
Hi my CJ 2lt engine has new pistons, cam, ect. Would Ace 40 (have run out of Ace30) be too thick to use? Am also pondering switching to a more readily available oil as i live in Tassie and have to ship it from the mainland. If so is a Penrite mineral ok?
On the assumption that you already have at least a few thousand km on your new build I would definately NOT be using Ace 40. Too thick. Just my musings... Being winter and new assuming close tolerances I would be looking at a 15:40- 15:50. Even a 10:40 for Tassie winter. Top end not critical but bottom number is. Problem is zinc I would be wanting numbers around .15. Can only find that in HPR30 and vintage light. 10tenths are ok but cost. Most of the thinner oils are around .10. The above are 20-60 which is same as Ace 30 ( 20;50 without checking) See what local using? Definately don't rev engine while cold if you have to run the 20;60
Have done about 500kms now. Still not running right however (but thats in another thread ). This will be my 3rd oil change with the new cam.
Thanks cbus, was worried it was too thick. Id thought high zinc was the go?Does the need to increase zinc content increase as the engines clearances increase?
No. Roughly put, zinc just assists and protects high pressure contact surfaces , especially during the work hardening phase. it protects the cam and lifters where they are contacting under pressure , assisting the oil. Other areas are protected by oil film. And your engine would be very worn/noisy before requiring anything heavier than 20:60. There are tests that show the balance ( amount) required and also some argument over amounts but my understanding is something between .12 and .16 is suitable for our motors. I have previously run .10 with no problems but given numerous stories of cam failures err on the side of caution. I also note Andrews opinion on the issue. I run HPR 30 with no apparent issues but do notice the slower cranking in winter in Qld. Hence I would prefer the thinner oil for Tassie winters. Especially for cold morning starts. But going by specs the 20:60 would be rated down to https://www.google.com/search?clien...biw=412&bih=604&dpr=1.75#imgrc=MYJskrG8uxhWtM: https://wiki.anton-paar.com/en/engine-oil/ Keep in mind that all this is only my viewpoint. I will look for a 15 wt oil with .12 plus zinc.
As Andrew noted . Mobil v twin 20;50 has a lower viscosity at 40c than other similar rated oils. 172 vs 175 for penrite 15;50. HPR15 223 for HPR30. Mobil 15;50 even thinner and has .12 zinc. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjANegQIBxAC&usg=AOvVaw2avttLKX9RKbAC3jHwQpxj https://www.mobil.com/english-au/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/glxxmobil-1-v-twin-20w50 Just for info.
Penrite is pretty easy to get from most outlets in Tas. If they don't have the right one on the shelf they should be able to order it in. I use the ACE 30 made by QP Lubes from Bacchus Marsh, and bring it home by the 20 litre drum stored under the IKEA and Aldi purchases on trips back from the mainland when I run low. Adrian
I'm no expert but from what I've read there's no issue . Same for changing back and forth. Happy to be proven wrong it it's the case . But certainly I wouldn't mix oils. And have a preference to sticking to whatever I'm running if it suits conditions. The danger in old days was putting a high detergent oil in something that had been run on non detergent for its life then going back to a non detergent. Dislocated crap could block narrow oilways. All hearsay but seemed reasonable. Wouldn't put synthetic in a leaky engine. Ask your engine builder , he has to cover warranty. For my preference, I would go the thinner oil if regular sub zero starts .
Had a hard finding the Mobil oil, Penrite seems to be the most accessible. Zinc/Boron levels upto 2200ppm in racing oil or 1800 ppm in the extra zinc. Although i couldnt find info on exactly how much zinc to boron is present. Are these too high ? Vantage range is 1600 ppm all come in 15-60w and 10-50. Should i be picky between mineral, semi and fully syth? Rarely gets 0c down here now climate change is here. Most of my driving would be 10c+. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/product-selector?application=car-4wd&category=engine-oils#/
.16 is a suitable range for our engines. If temps as indicated use the HPR30 or Ace 30. Or the classic vw is fractionally lighter. No need or benifit to be too worried about other details re syn etc or maxing zinc.
I use semi synthetic .+ anti friction additive by NULON.and change every 3000 ks or there abouts. The engine runs smooth and easy without any temp variations. As a well known member (Wattie ) once told me oil is the cheapest component in the engine but also one of the most important so dont be afraid to spend a few $ to protect your inveatment whether u have done 5 thous ks or not. .
