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1600 T2 Exhausts...

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by SuppsByJase, Jun 12, 2017.

  1. SuppsByJase

    SuppsByJase Member

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Hey guys,

    I need to replace my exhaust as there's a huge hole in the muffler aswell as some dodgy sealant repairs...

    The current rear muffler is attached with the 3 bolt flange but alot of the exhausts seem to have a different set up? Will i need to find something with the same set up to fit my headers or do I need to replace the headers too?

    My heater pipes going to the motor have been blocked off and the pipes going back to the exhaust seem loose so there might be an issue there too!

    Thanks
     
  2. twincabay

    twincabay Active Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    port maquarie
    If you have a bog standard 1600 the best option is the matching OG exhaust especially if you want a heater but even if you dont j pipes are good. Mitch
     
    oldman likes this.
  3. SuppsByJase

    SuppsByJase Member

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    The heater pipes have been blocked from the engine already...

    What do the J pipes replace?
     
  4. twincabay

    twincabay Active Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    port maquarie
    J pipes replace the heater boxes/ exchangers that capture the heat for circulation not necessary if the heater boxes are sound . Is yours a standard donk?
    M
     
  5. SuppsByJase

    SuppsByJase Member

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Yeah standard but had a couple issues today with it running a bit rough under load and missing so I started looking at issues and found a hole in the muffler!

    So might be replacing the carby and changing to electronic ignition!
     
  6. twincabay

    twincabay Active Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    port maquarie
    Best solution , smoothest driving, OG exhaust , OG Carbie and matched distributor, if you have a 1600 TP you want a 34 pict carb and a dual advance dissy to suit probably an 034. My best advice talk to 1500king on here send him your stock carb and dissy get him to sort them out and get that OG exhaust> I promise you will be more than happy with the results.It is amazing how serviceable in the rioght hands 40 year old quality parts are they will come back like new. M
     
  7. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,227
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Agree with Mitch. Get it back to stock and best possible condition. Fix those exhaust issues.....they will affect how it runs.
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  8. SuppsByJase

    SuppsByJase Member

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    How much are stock exhausts?
     
  9. SuppsByJase

    SuppsByJase Member

    Messages:
    85
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    And are the 34pict the standard carby for the 1600s?
     
  10. twincabay

    twincabay Active Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    port maquarie
    34 pict for 1600 TP what you got? . pretty easy to find what you need on samba , try a little help from GooGoole. Mitch
     
  11. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,227
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    ..or get yourself a Haynes/Muir's/Bentley manual & learn about what you have.....it's well worth the time spent reading.
    Otherwise you will only ever get 2nd hand info. and a lot of that will be bs......
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  12. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    22,222
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Ok so I got a 1600 TP Type3 engine with standard carbs - with the exhaust whether you go bog standard or a Vintage Speed system to suit ..... as you're running J pipes (headers/extractors) do your engine a great favor and get flange plates welded to them then replicate on the muffler - this may need a little stuffing about about but your engine will be eternally grateful and you'll have no exhaust smells lingering. o_O

    I did it and a few other members have also - screw the has to be original connection(s) :confused: ..... see the result in my Members Ride thread 1972 Type 3 Fastback ;)

    The header/exhaust connection solution is one thing with the exhaust clamp scenario VW didn't get right until the 1700/1800/2000 engine when the flange plates became standard.

    Bert
     
    twincabay likes this.
  13. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    22,222
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Should have mentioned I'm still running the heater so we welded the flange plates onto them - this is the Vintage Speed exhaust setup.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,707
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    If you have heater boxes you must have air flowing over them
    If you dont want heater boxes put J pipes in
    Whatever you do, IMO, get them flanged
    If you are running a single carb set up you need pre-heat
    The only way that is done effectively is either a stock, Vintage Speed or custom exhaust

    I would replace the whole system so it is right

    These were my flanged heater boxes

    [​IMG]
     
    KahunaKombi likes this.
  15. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,586
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Standard mufflers and clamps work just fine as long as your pipes aren't rotten.
     
  16. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,707
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    I will disagree but that is the point of a forum

    For the relatively small additional cost when doing the job properly you are guaranteed of being leak free.

    The quality of clamp kits is rubbish along with getting heater boxes with good end tubes
     
  17. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,707
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    In addition..... if they were adequate, why did Porsche put flanges on 911 heater boxes and not keep the clamps from the 356 design?
     
  18. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    22,222
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Going out a limb to post if people want clamp kits then Vintage Speed have them in stainless steel which I feel would be a much better kit than the standard from most air cooled parts shops :eek:

    Barry thanks for your post(s) re the clamp v flange fitment as it's what led me to go that way :D;)
     
  19. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,586
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    I only use HJS Leistritz/Ernst clamp kits. The rest are junk.

    Heater boxes with good end tubes will always seal. If your tubes are rotten, there is nothing to weld flanges to either, will end up costing you much more in repairs to patch them than new heater boxes anyway in which case you can use the stock clamps.

    I've never had problems with them.

    This is in contrast to the Type 3 heater boxes which are a different animal above in which the only ones available are NOS, if you can find them( have a few stashed away)...prudent if there is still enough material and you are not staying with an original Leistritz/Lange/Ernst muffler to weld flanges on.
     

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