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1975 1800 motor, missing when decelerating or coasting

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by francispj, Dec 21, 2012.

  1. francispj

    francispj Member

    Messages:
    175
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Hope someone can help, recently my kombi went from great to annoying. It wont run smoothly whilst coasting or idling. I have fitted new leads, new plugs, checked the distributor cap which seemed ok but the brass contacts were a little carboned up- I scrapped them clean, checked the button -ok and there were no cracks inside the dizzy.
    A week ago the tee junction on the fuel line was leaking so I replaced the lines and it was ok - probably not relevant. Was informed it could be a valve in the head -heaven forbid- could it also be a fuel problem - I find that hard to believe since it accelerates well and doesn,t lack power when my foot is down but the minute I take my foot off.........miss,sputter etc:umm:
     
  2. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,338
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Check all your vacume hoses, check the rubber elbows on the inlet manifold under each carby for cracks or not connected properly
     
  3. paul77

    paul77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,024
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I take the Kombi out this morning to drop the dog off at the kennels and all was good until I started the Kombi after dropping the dog off. Might of flooded it a bit, weird woosh noise from engine bay. Kombi won't idle, ok with foot down but rough other wise. In a panic I phone Pete at customveedub and he suggested that rubber elbow may have failed or blown off. As it happened the rhs elbow was blown off, I reconnected and all good. A big thanks to Pete for being forthcoming in ideas so I could resolve myself, and also for being prepared to look at the Kombi today if this wasn't the issue as I need the Kombi to get us to Byron tomorrow!
     
  4. francispj

    francispj Member

    Messages:
    175
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Thanks for That . will do. I disconnEcted the spark plugs one by one - big diffence on the 3 , 4 cylinder side but not much on the 1,2. Got my compression gauge out and as much pressure I could push on the spark plug opening on cgot 60 psi and my heart sunk- havent even tried cylinder 1
     
  5. nikferatu

    nikferatu Active Member

    Messages:
    1,447
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Brisbane
    I had something like that a few years ago after new fuel lines, it was one of the screw-in solenoids where a little shaving off the inside of a fuel line had fetched up and blocked it - coincidentally it was Pete at CVD who figured that one out too!
     
  6. francispj

    francispj Member

    Messages:
    175
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Do you think a reading of 60 psi would cause missing?. The book says I should have 85_135 psi.
     
  7. francispj

    francispj Member

    Messages:
    175
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Also, I have a oil temp gauge and it never got up above 80 so it didn't overheat maybe its just a worn engine please not!
     
  8. leithbro

    leithbro Member

    Messages:
    575
    Location:
    Cairns
    That's low - just on one cylinder or all around?
     
  9. VanAime

    VanAime Active Member

    Messages:
    2,343
    Location:
    Primate Gully Vic.
    I take it you're using one of those compression testers with the rubber push-in fitting? I've found them rather unreliable if they're getting on in years. The rubber bit hardens and leaks where it fits to the stem of the gauge. The screw-in type is far better and if it's a decent brand, also gives more accurate readings. Those el-cheapo types aren't worth a pinch of the proverbial.

    Lets just hope that's the problem with the low reading.
     
  10. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,338
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Check your tappet clearance on number 3 if there is none there could be a valve seat bedding in, this will cause the motor to miss/run rough
     
  11. francispj

    francispj Member

    Messages:
    175
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Once again, great posts thanks. If the heads are in trouble, can you take them off without removing the engine I am not looking forward to this
     
  12. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,338
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Easier to pull engine
     
  13. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,462
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    As Mike posted....check the vacuum lines....all of them.Most overlooked one is the brake booster line - lots of places it can be dried out 'n brittle - particularly at the servo end.
    Some folks have had breeched diaphragms within the booster itself....hope it's an easy fix.
    Cheers, Mark
     
  14. Paul Lawler

    Paul Lawler New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Hobart
    hi Mike, Can you tell me where I can buy the rubber elbows for each carby and the 2 on the top LHS of the air cleaner for my 1975 kombi camper. The Bus Stop don't supply

    Regards

    Paul
     
  15. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,338
    Location:
    Brisbane
  16. Paul Lawler

    Paul Lawler New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Hobart
    Thanks Mike I have just ordered much appreciated.....
    Now back to my list :)
    Regards

    Paul
     
  17. Paul Lawler

    Paul Lawler New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Hobart
    Hi mike can you tell me if you can buy the headlight inserts separately from the front skin on my T2 1975 camper.?
    Regards Paul
     
  18. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,338
    Location:
    Brisbane
  19. Paul Lawler

    Paul Lawler New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Hobart
    Front body panel skin - Headlights that are housed into them

    Hi Mike no its the front body panel where the light housing goes into See JK Front Panel for VW T2 Bay 1972–1979
    JK Part Number: J10047 OEM Part Number: 211-805-035/J I dont need the whole panel just the two concave light housings
     
  20. Paul Lawler

    Paul Lawler New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Hobart
    Hi Mike they are actually called headlight sockets and I've just found out that you cant buy separately. So I'll need to do some repairs to the originals.
    Cheers and happy bussing
     

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