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3D printed parts

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by nils, Feb 19, 2015.

  1. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jan 3, 2016
  2. nils

    nils Well-Known Member

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    For anyone who didn't just pull their car apart.:confused:
    Here is a better picture of where it goes and what it achieves.
    [​IMG]

    That is pretty toast there Phil, I decided mine was "serviceable" at best. I need to test the material as you mentioned, I'll bring a new one for you when I pop down (hopefully next week if all things turn out) and you can help me do just that.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2017
    Maccas and Syncro27 like this.
  3. nils

    nils Well-Known Member

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    I found that too Phill, The cost is pretty much the same. But this is more about testing the material and learning rather than making money.
    The fellows in the states have this strange problem with getting parts from England/Europe and are more likely to buy from Shapeways direct, so if there is a market thats where I will push
     
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  4. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

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    Keep pushing Nils ;)

    The fellows in Australia have this strange problem with getting parts from Volkswagen.:eek:
     
  5. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

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    It looks like its worn out but is still working fine, happy to help with product testing.
     
  6. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

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    Hey nils I just come across an interesting article suggesting that some uni is using rust powder for to "print" the metal parts than converting it to metal some how with hydrogen ( I'm no chemist so have no idea how this works) maybe we could scrape up all the bits that are rusting of kombis around the place and reuse it to build new parts.

    http://hackaday.com/2016/01/14/simplifying-metal-3d-printing-by-complicating-it/
     
  7. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Thought of this thread with NLA parts, so time to put it out there again.

    My situation is that Col (cbus) gave me a Type 3 seat with pretty good loooking front seat adjuster cams (left and right are interchangeable and right is right/left is left) which are die cast aluminium. What I have found after removing them is both have grooves worn in the shafts & a fine crack where the roll pin secures them (these may not be anything in the big scheme).

    However, before replacing the "stuffed" one on the drivers seat I wondering whether Nils could let me know if he or his contacts can advise if they could be done ..... I've a thread in the Wanted section but the iPad won't allow me to copy and pics across but can do when back a real computer.
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2016
  8. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

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    See if this works - this is from the wanted thread I started.

    DSC00934.JPG

    Ok so not really and will try to post pics here tomorrow to avoid having to go the photobucket - this pic only shows the under side/inner view of the seat and not the outer where the roll pin secure it.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2017
  9. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

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    Are these the pics? (Just trying out copying and pasting pics from your "wanted" post, with this IPad Pro with a Luddite at the controls.....)

    DSC00933.JPG

    DSC00934.JPG
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 9, 2017
  10. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

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    As an adjunct to Berts scenario.
    I have had discussions some years back with a local specialist foundry owner who works in non ferrous materials.
    If parts are difficult for printing for any reason then if a pattern could be 3D printed I could get a costing for casting.

    Hopefuly the guy is still in business.

    The reason for needing a printed part is that allowance needs to be made for shrinkage of cast materials.
    Hence the pattern needs to be accurately increased in size over the finished product.
    Thoughts?
     
  11. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Thanks Grant, they're the ones - hell I tried from the ipad and it wouldn't do it me :confused:. Those ones are the passenger seat showing how they should look.

    Driver's side that are stuffed -

    DSC00927.JPG

    DSC00928.JPG

    DSC00929.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2017
  12. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Possibility Col, I had a mate who worked (father owned then older brother thook the reigns) in a foundry that cast aluminium furniture (Wellington Foundry, Granville NSW) but it's been 13 yrs since we've made contact.

    I'm being cautious with the ones I got from you and will post some pics of them.

    I also think when I pulled the drivers seat that the bar thes cams are on was bent - how NFI but would have taken a hell of a lot of force to do it AND this may be a factor in the seat adjustment issue as well.

    Enquiry here was thoughts around whether material/medium used in 3D parts priting would be strong and durable enough.

    Here's a pic of some new ones (I found on theSamba) -

    NOS TYPE 3 SEAT CAMS.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2017
  13. nils

    nils Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys, sorry to come in pretty late. Night shift is not real good for me.

    Kahuna- 3D printing something like this wound be a piece of cake. Originally being a cast alloy I can't imagine it to have any kind of high material spec really.
    I have printed in steel a bit and it is very hard, it would no doubt do what you need it to do here. Limiting factor would be the cost, without having it here to measure probably $100 ea
    We also have the ability to print in aluminum now.This is a true aluminum too, unlike the steel which is a steel matrix bond together with bronze. The alu is dearer again and I am still looking for a material spec on it.
    Other option is to CNC a new one, looking at the shape this is probably a more cost effective approach.

    As far as casting new ones goes, there are 2 options available. I can 3D print an adjuster in a casting wax from which your guy can create a mold from. Or a negitive mold can be machined up, but I would need shrinkage rates and draft requirements of the mold as that is just outside my scope
     
  14. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

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    3rd option could be making a plug from an old one built up with epoxy.
     
  15. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

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    Impressive stuff that printing.
    Ballpark, how smooth is the finished product and guess it varies?
    Does it need finishing process to obtain a fine finish other than removal of excess or ' scaffolding' ?
    I havent looked into the process in detail.

    I will go past the foundry and check current situation.
    Cost for one offs/economic numbers, preferred patterns/ moulds etc.
    I know that a lot of his work is from pattern and fine sand but he is very knowledgable n skilled in most processes/ materials.

    Will also do a general check re differences in shrinkages as applied to different parts of an item or just scaling up.
     
  16. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

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    Yeah.
    Had thought of that.
    Possibly a viable option for current product if casting was cost effective for small numbers.

    Other thought that Nils may know answer to would be scan and CNC.?
     
  17. nils

    nils Well-Known Member

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    CNC would be how I would go. Be careful scanning, using a cheap scanner will leave you with a very "dirty" representation of the part yielding poor results on the new part. Some scanned files my require more time repairing than to have just modelled from scratch.

    Sintered laser printing has no scaffolding. The finished print generally has a very light grainy texture which can be sanded smooth as you like.
     
    cbus likes this.
  18. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Thanks nils, I'll take some pics of the ones Col graciously gave me (attached to the seat) and some measurements ..... essentially left is a mirror of the right.

    When col sent me pics they looked great around the "notched" edge that is laying flat in that picture but it's the shaft section that comes from inner section of seat to outer that is grooved from steel frame it sits within.

    Also on one of the roll pin holes on both there is a fine crack all the way through the metal.

    Damage happens when owners don't hold back of seat while they adjust or sit in the seat and try to force it. Should also have some lubricant (moly grease) as the seat frame is steel so a numbering of factors the primary being user error :confused:

    cheers,

    Bert
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2016
  19. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

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    Don't think I could do it from our old iPad.

    Just trying to learn to drive this new one bought 2 weeks ago.......... But still got my "L' plates on..:oops:

    ("Old dog / new tricks", type scenarioo_O)
     
  20. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Thing is Grant, we'll never be able to do everything on an iPad that it is designed to do ..... :confused:
     

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