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75 Kombi 2.0 Engine revving high as it heats up.

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by Xombi75, May 12, 2022.

  1. Xombi75

    Xombi75 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Tweed Heads

    nah mate. he defs didn't do any of that ... by his own admission he said it needs the VW mechanic, but his little tune would get me out there safe and sound. before he touch it, once there was some heat in the engine, it would start revving and spluttering at what i'd guess to be around 3500-4000 rpm on idle at lights.


    one thing he did notice though was ... the carbies aren't webers he doesn't think. some kind of weber imitations.
     
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  2. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    11,397
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Indeed !
    An experienced, alert kombi driver can pick up any subtle nuance and change in the normal running sounds of their bus.
    Beauty of these beasts is that they really are quite simple and once you learn the problem solving sequences, it all becomes a lot easier and less stressful ;)
    Get Jenny set up properly and you’ll know what a well tuned bus runs and sounds like…….from there it’s up to you to stay on top of anything that doesn’t sound quite right.
    Kombi ownership, if you work on ‘em , is great for keeping you sharp !

    one thing he did notice though was ... the carbies aren't webers he doesn't think. some kind of weber imitations.
    BOOM !
    IF your carbs are not the real deal, ditch ‘em and get a pair of matched, rebuilt Solex for reliable
    Motoring…..Andrew / Volksdoktor/1500king is THE man for this.
    Remember, VW had a complete balanced setup when they left the factory…..people that bolt on mismatched bits n pieces will always have issues…….
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2022
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  3. Wiz

    Wiz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    701
    Location:
    Near Ballarat
    Common repair, VW even had a kit with bushes and seals. Aftermarket kits available now.
    Make sure it is installed correctly.
    I'll dig out Bentley tomorrow.
    PR
     
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  4. Xombi75

    Xombi75 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Tweed Heads
    Thanks heaps PR
     
  5. Xombi75

    Xombi75 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Tweed Heads
    It's interesting hey ... i haven't driven a kombi in almost 2 decades, but still remembered the engine, the revs and the rattles. which ones are normal and which aren't.


    If the webers are imitations... i'm never in a hurry when i drive. would a single carb set up be more reliable? slower, but more reliable?

    or is that crazy talk, and I should just get a dual weber setup?
     
  6. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    11,397
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Crazy talk…..a type 4 engine was designed to run dual Solex in the first instance.
    Many replace Solex with true Webers or Dellortos to gain a little performance, however good, originals are getting hard to find and expensive…..
    I’m running a stock CJ 2 ltr with dual, stock Solex carbs. Everything was refreshed about 10 years ago.
    I follow the KISS principle…..Keep It Simple Stupid ! and have not had any issues with this setup…..ever ;)

    ultimately your call…..you do what you like……just be aware of the knock on effects of your decisions .
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
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  7. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,565
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    The motor you have will be a Type 1 1916
    The dual Solex won’t suit a Type 1

    Generally, Rods motors are higher HP, but would be good if you knew if it was a “base” or “signature” motor.
    If it is a “base” it isn’t “that” much different to stock and you could go to a rejetted stock single carb set up.
    I have run a similar setup and was good.

    If it is a higher HP motor a single carb will really choke the motor.

    My advice is stay away from single IDF or Progressive carbs.
    They “can” work but you will really need to know what you are doing and spend a heap more.

    Get it tuned up first.
    See what the issues are.
    It may just need more tweaks.
     
  8. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,565
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    @oldman

    Mark,
    It will be a type 1 motor
     
  9. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    11,397
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Why ?
    Title and first post states 2 ltr.
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  10. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,565
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
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  11. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    11,397
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Fair call……
    @Xombi75
    It would be good to see a pic of the actual engine, so we can help with correct info.
    Otherwise it’s all just guesswork……
     
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  12. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,565
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    yep
     
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  13. Xombi75

    Xombi75 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Tweed Heads
    ye
    yep okay ... when the weather clears i'll duck out and grab a pic.
     
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  14. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    11,397
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Or, do you know the engine prefix ?
    ie CJ is the prefix for a 2 ltr type 4 engine…..
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  15. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,987
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Being a newish motor ( block) it might not have a standard Vw prefix, unless it was transferred over.
     
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  16. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    11,397
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    There’s a can of worms !
    All sorts of potential issues with engine numbers that do not match rego. papers….:rolleyes:
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  17. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,987
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Extra large can ,alot of different scenarios .
     
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  18. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,565
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    On the upside I’m going jump in and say it just needs some love.
    I’m going to assume previous owner grabbed one of Rod’s long blocks and IDF copy carbs and never set it up properly.
    Timing on the 009 will be out.
    Steel manifold gaskets
    Loose Clamps on heater boxes
    Aluminium hex bar on carbs

    A good VW mechanic will get it going.
    Will need to work through it but should see light at the end soon enough
     
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  19. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    11,397
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Agree....won't be anything a competent person with a good set of eyes can't fix.
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
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  20. Wiz

    Wiz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    701
    Location:
    Near Ballarat
    Bentley states:
    1. Remove the grease nipple. Then using a slide hammer and appropriate extraction tools, drive the old bushings out downward (Fig 9-10).

    2. Using the tools shown in Fig 9-10 (slide hammer), drive in the new lower bushing from above until it is flush with the bottom of the mounting.

    3. Drive the upper bushing in only until its upper edge projects 1.10mm (.034 in.) above the mounting.
    Measure this by placing a feeler gauge between the driving tool and the top of the mount, or by measuring the projecting part of the bushing with a vernier caliper or depth micrometer.


    Note that the top bushing is not driven all the way in.

    I once read a thread describing how to remove the bushings using coach bolts with flats on each side but can't find the link.
    PR
     
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