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A few questions from a newbie!

Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by Cam+, May 6, 2020.

  1. Cam+

    Cam+ Active Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Hello! So we've had the bus ('75 camper) a few weeks now but haven't been able to enjoy it with COVID and everything. I tried to take it around the block last week but the battery was too flat to turn it. I jump started, drove around for 10 minutes and parked up. Next day the battery was flat again.

    It has a cutoff switch/key thing connected to the positive terminal and it had been turned off since it was last run, however it also has a lifestyle battery connected via a battery isolator that doesn't go through the switch. The isolator should have kept the main battery from being drained and nothing else was connected.

    Do I have an old dud battery, or is the isolator failing and draining the starter battery?

    The other question: Should I be downshifting in to first to round corners? In all the cars I've driven, first gear is really only for starting from pretty much stopped, but the bus under-reved and coughs and splutters when Im at cornering speed in 2nd. Is there something wrong with the bus or just my driving?!
     
  2. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    698
    Location:
    Canberra
    Hi Cam+...if you put a voltmeter on the batteries you will be able to check if the isolator is doing the right thing. Usually the alternator will charge the main battery and when it gets to 12.8v it will start charging the house battery. Driving for 10 min won't revive a battery...try putting it on a charger for as long as it takes (hours). CTEK is a good brand

    You shouldn't have to change down to 1st for corners...sounds like you should start with a tune-up. Coughing and spluttering sounds like fuel, but it's common practice to adjust the valves, points and timing before making carby adjustments.

    Patrick
     
    David H and Cam+ like this.
  3. Cam+

    Cam+ Active Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Melbourne
    I should have mentioned, that's exactly what I've done now - charged overnight, fully charged yesterday morning. Started up fine again this morning, voltage read 12.6 on the multimeter. I'll check voltage again later tonight and tomorrow morning and see if there's any change?

    Thanks for the advice, I'll definitely get a tune up and service done on her as soon as we get the all-clear to travel again!
     
    TeeBee likes this.
  4. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,731
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Add if you got a fuel filter under the car,add that to be replaced if not already done.
     
  5. BrianK

    BrianK Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,669
    Location:
    Mount Gambier, SA
    Only take it to a well known kombi mechanic for mechanical work, none of those other places will know what to do. There are a few in Melbourne, someone from there will tell you who to go to. There’s also a thread on here for service centres, will see if I can find it.

    http://maps.google.com.au/maps/ms?i...d=110530154084926131426.00046dda01c05790afa34
     
  6. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,721
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Check and replace fuel lines is first priority unless you can see that they are fairly new .
     
    Mordred likes this.
  7. Cam+

    Cam+ Active Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Melbourne
    I've done my research on that front too - I'm not *too* far from volkscourt Thomastown which gets a good amount of praise here!

    I've also bought How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive - I'll address that and see if I can figure out how to check the fuel lines!
     
  8. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,782
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Mordred and Luna76 like this.
  9. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,426
    Location:
    Mannum South Australia
    Once the balance tube end caps and brake booster leaking, valves and timing have been eliminated from the cases of the rough run at low revs, the carbies are the next most likely cause. My poor old '74 near has a coronary when run on petrol at low revs, but when running on LPG I can get it down to the point I can nearly count the firing of each cyl .... not an advisable practice but I was curious just how slow I could go in top gear before it got really upset.

    The problem with my carbies is worn throttle spindles, easily to detect by lifting the throttle linkage at the carbie up and down and seeing it there is noticeable movement. This causes the shaft to move in the hole rather than actually turn around as you first apply the throttle, no fuel squirt from the fuel pump but a big gush of air with no fuel gets sucked in around the worn spindle, a lean backfire is the usual result.

    T1 Terry
     
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  10. Cam+

    Cam+ Active Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Melbourne
    I just had a poke around under the dash because I'm considering putting in a new stereo (it just has an old AM radio in there right now!) - Is it normal to have a bunch of loose wires that don't go anywhere? I think I'm going to spend a bunch of time upside down with a multimeter in the coming days!
     
  11. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,731
    Location:
    Seven hills
    No you shouldn't have bunches of wires hanging around, You haven't got the original speaker above the radio by any chance:rolleyes:;). Does every electrical component work? Previous owners are famous for adding extra wires like speakers, radios and extra gauges and take them out prior to sale. leaving you with a mass of wires to sort out what they where for. It might be worth it to check your fuse box and make sure all the colour wires are in there correct location for your year and that all required electrical components work (lights horn etc) Then I would remove wires that don't match original set up. Basically you then know what should be there and anything that you add you know what colour the wire is and what it is for.
     
  12. Cam+

    Cam+ Active Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Melbourne
    I believe it does still have the original speaker! And it works! How sort-after are they?

    I've checked all the legal stuff, lights, wipers, horn, door-activated lights. But maybe there's some features I didn't know I had! Warning buzzers or some such?

    I'll spend tomorrow figuring it all out!

    The good news is the battery has now held up for two days without recharging so I don't think there's anything draining it! Might just be getting towards the end of it's life.
     
    David H likes this.
  13. Cam+

    Cam+ Active Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Whatever the previous owner did, the radio was not installed properly. The faceplate had chunks chipped out to make way for bolts that don't seem to be required for anything - one of them didn't even have a nut! I'm not sure if the AM radio is stock or just old. I should take a few photos....
     
  14. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,782
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    always helps

    are the wires near the radio?
    Could be old speaker wires that are no longer used or driving lights

    take a pick of the wires as well
    Might give a clue
     
  15. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,731
    Location:
    Seven hills
    I don't think they are sort after and most would just upgrade to new speakers,only people like me want the speaker and mounting bracket,to put back to original.
     
    Cam+ likes this.
  16. Cam+

    Cam+ Active Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Some photos!

    I've seen 3 loose cables. The black ground, the loose red one and one of the red ones in the bundle doesn't go anywhere.

    wire1.jpg wire2.jpg radio.jpg
     
  17. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,731
    Location:
    Seven hills
    In line fuse holder goes to either the radio but more likely the gauges.Take your time when going through the wires.
     
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  18. Cam+

    Cam+ Active Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Melbourne
    There's obviously a few non-standard dials there too! Maybe the extra cables have something to do with them.
     
  19. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,731
    Location:
    Seven hills
    My new tachometer required a inline fuse.
    The black earth (looking)wire in your first photo,see what self tapping screw the wire would reach as it would be limited to which ones it would go under.
     
    Cam+ likes this.
  20. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,017
    Location:
    newcastle
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