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A question regarding glue for sound deadening.

Discussion in ''How To' & 'Handy Hints'' started by 68BUS, Jan 19, 2015.

  1. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,438
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Hey folks.
    As many of you know the best sound attenuation gear around is Dynamat.
    But it is also very expensive.
    After doing quite a bit of research of products including liquid membranes and the like I settled on using Wavebar 4kg/m2.
    http://www.pyroteknc.com/wavebar-original-light-flexible-mass-loaded-noise-barrier.html
    I got a 10m (by 1500mm) roll for $300 which I think is good and allows 2 layers on the floors and over the engine bay.

    But it does not come with a sticky side and I wanted to ask opinions of what glue to use to stick it to the door panels and roof skin. (worst case I can do floors and walls in it and buy some dynamat for the roof).

    I want something that will instantly hold so I can get it to stick but will also stand the test of time.
    I sikaflex the way to go? Or contact? Or something else.
    It will be subject to very hot temperatures of course from the sun too which is a factor.

    The other thing is if I am ruining my paint my glueing onto it. Should I also rust bullet the panels to get stuff stuck on at the same time so moisture is never an issue?

    Thanks folks.
     
  2. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

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  3. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,438
    Location:
    Brisbane
    There is a work contact that I may be able to contact to borrow one - He does fabric acoustic panels for me.
    But my idea of keeping costs down would be shot buying something like that.
    I was more thinking a smaller quantity or tube form that I can use as I need it to allow me time to do bits here and there over weekends.
     
  4. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

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    Brisbane
  5. Tin Bits

    Tin Bits Member

    Messages:
    416
    Location:
    Morayfield Queensland
    Hey Brad,
    I also did a lot of research into products and as I have a hot rod background I asked a lot of people re products and when it came down to the crunch I went with Lizard Skin spray on for my bus.

    Bit Late for you to use now as your painted.

    What convinced me was this product is water based and can be sprayed onto any clean surface and also can be painted over.

    I used the sound deadner first giving the walls,roof and front cab floor 2 good coats = 2 gallons
    I then also used there ceramic insulation product which is also spray on, also giving 2 coats as per above.

    My reason being when sprayed on it seals all the nooks and crannies and gives a full coat with no gaps, all the other products that stick on leave room for water to get traped underneath then rust, and you can't tell it's happening.

    The floor is the biggest trap with all the ridge shapes, being very hard to be sure it's all stuck every where.

    This is only my thoughts I matbe wrong it's happened once before HA HA.

    Cheers Ian

    Love your bus big time looking forward to seeing it.
     
  6. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    15,675
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Will be watching this with interest, as Pyrotek over Dynamat was going to be my choice as well.

    As I understand it, dynamat stops the "drumming" sound of large panels, and only needs a small amount in the centre of the panel to achieve that.

    Full cover of closed cell sound proof sheet, then cuts down on sound transmission.
     
  7. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,311
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Maybe just use it for the floor then use Acoustisorb 50mm for walls and ceiling

    I have acoustisorb in my splits ceiling
     
  8. 3Amigos

    3Amigos Active Member

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    THE HOUSE ON THE HILL
  9. Aspro

    Aspro Well-Known Member

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    2,275
    Location:
    Stuck in the UK
    My only advice Brad whatever glue you decide to use is stick it down well. Don't leave any gaps or creases. I've seen pictures of water getting under dynamat on floors and getting trapped in and slowly rusting the body away.
     
    Dapom likes this.
  10. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,438
    Location:
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    Cool thanks folks.
    Some great advice there.
    As far as rust - I was thinking that I will get some anchor wax for the cab and cargo floors under the rubber.
    And I think I will use rust bullet behind the insulation for the door panels and either penatrol or rust bullet (or both for the roof gutters as they will not be seen anyway and even if I decide to exspose them again they will have glue residue all over them.

    I don't think I will glue the flooring down unless I get slippage.

    And that spray glue looks good Mike. I think I will get 2 of those and see how far it goes.

    Ian - the Lizard skin looks really good. I found several other types that were more for building on slabs etc.. I ended up going away from them as i was worried about how they would hold up to movement and heat in the car skins. But that one is obviously made for it which is great.

    And Mike - My mate in the acoustic Business is not really a mate. There is a company that has installed Autex panels for us and he was really nice and when we were chatting he said he could lend me his gear. He also saved his decent off cuts for me before found the rubber sheet. For the life of me I cannot remember the company name now. I have not installed that gear for about a year.
     
  11. tinymcmassive

    tinymcmassive Member

    Messages:
    197
    Location:
    Jervis Bay, south coast NSW
    68bus, where did you buy the wavebar roll from?
     
  12. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,438
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I did a fair bit of shopping around before settleing on Jim Ramsey. He works at Pyrotech in Brisbane and came up with a few options for whay I could use. They also have a self adhesive foil backed rubber that is thinner but similar to dynamat.
    This email is from 2013 so don't use prices as gospel but gives yo an idea of what was discussed.

    Brad

    Here are a few options for you including pricing. I have attached the data sheets for you.

    You may wish to line the engine enclosure with our Sorberbarrier ALR20 $100/1.0M x 1.3M sheet or use Soundmat with PE foam $80 inside the vehicle over the cowling and down

    the firewall (a customer used this after shoehorning an audi motor into an eighties model), A cheaper alternative is Wavebar 4Kg $30/Mtr. Another option to stop drumming is CLD

    $60/sheet 1.0M x 1.3M sheet.
    (See attached file: Sorberbarrier ALR 415IP_12_12_12.pdf)(See attached file: Soundmat PE_413IP_16.3.12.pdf)(See attached file: Wavebar Original 311IPM_5.3.12.pdf)(See attached file: Vibradamp CLD 172IP_09_12.pdf)

    Pricing is indicative and excludes GST.


    Trust this is of assistance.


    Kind Regards,


    Jim Ramsay | Sales Engineer - Pyrotek Noise Control | Pyrotek Pty Ltd. |16 Lapis Street, Underwood QLD 4127, Australia |

    E: jimram@pyrotek-inc.com |P: +61(0)7 3387 8207 | F:+61 (0)7 3387 8222 | M:+61 488 769 110 | W:http://www.pyrotek.info |



    And for closure offices to you try this site
    http://www.pyrotek.info/locations.php?country=13
     
  13. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,796
    Location:
    Goulburn
    Those that have used other stuff to deaden their vans how effective have you found it. My mother wants me to try and quieten down her caddy.
     
  14. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,438
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Will tell you in a couple of weeks I hope.
    In saying that I have researched the numbers and the data is very similar. But you do not get the glue already applied.
     

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