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A week of fuely excitment.

Discussion in 'Fuel System & Electrics' started by Matt Pettigrew, Jul 27, 2019.

  1. Matt Pettigrew

    Matt Pettigrew Member

    Messages:
    68
    Location:
    Hawthorne, Brisbane
    Hi all,

    My wife's T2 is the bane of my life ;-) Well not really, but it keeps me busy! This week the 'Sturmpanzerwagen', our name for it developed three fuel leaks.

    No.1 - She called me the other day to say after filling the tank, past where she normally fills it fuel was pouring down from under the left hand side of the engine compartment. Over the phone I could only assume it was a cracked breather line. After it stopped leaking, and she had soaked up any fuel inside and outside the engine compartment, and flushed it with water she was on her way. ( I am very lucky she is very hands on). On inspection later I found the hose connector between two steel lines had cracked. This is located up between the spare wheel well and outer wall, Apart from finding someone with 10" fingers and thin arms are they any tips to replace the hose connector?

    No.2 - While exploring the rear end of the Sturmpanzerwagen I noticed fuel leaking from the fuel pump upper cover, so thought a pump kit is in order - it is the original 1973 pump after all. Would you advise a kit or a new pump, (if they are available?).

    No.3 - When I crimped off the fuel line from the tank to remove the pump it cracked under the pressure of the crimp tool. This would not have surprised me if the line was old, but I replaced it about three years ago! My wife does not use fuel with ethanol so it must just be the modern fuels, or poor quality fuel line. Anyway, another question: Apart from the obvious way of replacing it - quickly remove and replace from the tank outlet so one doesn't get a petrol shower, does anyone have any tips or tricks they have used ?

    Cheers
    Matt
     
    Mr Beckstar likes this.
  2. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,661
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Are you talking a Type 4 motor or type 1?

    As far as i know you cant get type 4 rebuild kits and until recently you couldnt get replacement pumps

    But you can now

    https://www.justkampers.com.au/021-...t2-bay-1972-1979-vw-t25-2000cc-1979-1984.html
     
  3. Matt Pettigrew

    Matt Pettigrew Member

    Messages:
    68
    Location:
    Hawthorne, Brisbane
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2019
  4. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,661
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Then that pump above will work

    The other option is an electric pump but that gets a bit expensive and complicated
     
  5. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,528
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    KahunaKombi likes this.
  6. Matt Pettigrew

    Matt Pettigrew Member

    Messages:
    68
    Location:
    Hawthorne, Brisbane
    Hi Mark,
    Yeah, I read your sticky great idea. I'll have a look into that, unfortunately it won't help me when I'm actually installing it and a completely new line from the tank ;-) But from then on it will be a plus.
     
  7. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,528
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Drain your tank right down......it reduces the head of pressure, minimising the “squirt” effect !
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
    Mr Beckstar likes this.
  8. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,822
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has installed one of these new pumps. The chinese copies that appeared a couple of years ago have a bad rep, but this looks very different. More than happy to change to one of them as a decent rotary vane electric pump is about the same price, then you have to add the tachometric relay and solenoid cutoff which adds over a hundred to it. The push rod length for a standard one is critical down to .5 of a mm (137.5 or 139.5 is close but check it in the manual). I wonder if the new components are compatible with the old.

    Adrian
     
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  9. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,661
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    I have installed one but car not going yet.

    @Marzy has one as well.
    He has been driving his
    Hopefully he will reply
     
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  10. Marzy

    Marzy Active Member

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Clare Valley, South Australia
    Hi all, yes I installed a new Fuel pump made by PTV in Europe. After some teething issues - I didn’t align the pushrod correctly! It worked and hasn’t missed a beat since. Not that I’ve done many kms though. Maybe 200-300 so far

    Note - the pump didn’t come with Gaskets to fit to the motor. Which you need 2

    Link to my discussion http://forums.kombiclub.com/threads/adding-a-microbus-to-the-family.58218/page-2

    75F481B0-3739-48EF-B005-0BCF5E5487D4.jpeg 42FC0906-C0D2-43CE-9360-1FDF35D6EA81.jpeg
     
  11. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,027
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    139.5 is correct. I just replaced mine before bus stop.
     
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  12. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,027
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Does this pump have an anti-siphon valve inside?
     
    Marzy likes this.
  13. Marzy

    Marzy Active Member

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Clare Valley, South Australia
    Hi Mr Beckstar, I can only assume it does. I’ve had no issue... yet.

    I found the PTZ customer service online very fast to reply when at first the pump didn’t work (my error in the end). You could ask them, I’m sure they would clear it up

    Cheers
    Marzy
     
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  14. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,027
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    If there’s no anti-siphon valve, you’re at risk of fuel leaking from your tank, through your carbies, into your cylinders, into your sump, out your exhaust and onto the road where it could then possibly be ignited by a passer by. I know that because it happened to me recently (not the “ignited” part fortunately).

    I’d suggest it might be in your interests to check.o_O:)
     
  15. Marzy

    Marzy Active Member

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Clare Valley, South Australia
    Emailed PTZ about it. They replied to say they have never come across this issue with this model and the pump value will prevent fuel flow with the engine off.

    Saying that I will keep a close eye on it I think....

    Also knowing how fiddly it was to fit, if it fails I'll be switching to electric fuel pump as this is what my camper has and it works a treat.
     
    David H likes this.
  16. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,822
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    I reckon it doesn't have an anti siphon valve per-se but by function of the design will not let fuel through with out the pump operating. Easy to check with it out of the car.

    Adrian
     
    Marzy likes this.
  17. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,661
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Does a standard pump have that function?
     
    Marzy likes this.
  18. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,764
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Have always considered it to be the case as has Adrian stated.
    Maybe time to test the myth ? :)
     
    Marzy likes this.
  19. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,027
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Yes, the standard pump has an anti-siphon valve in the top. See the “cut-off diaphragm” in the picture below.

    7F53E5F1-37A1-4185-9568-E01C13220927.jpeg
     
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