Discussion in ''How To' & 'Handy Hints'' started by ttmck, Mar 18, 2007.
Remove your rear right hand wheel, there is a test wire there.
How is the access different for a bay SC?
My fuel guage works however it never shows totally full, no matter how much fuel I try to squeeze in. It is accurate down the "E" end though and when it says its empty - it is (please don`t ask how I know!!!)_
Anyway, I understand I can get to the sender unit through an access hatch in the treasure chest - BUT is there enough clearance between the top of the tank and the cargo floor to get the sender unit out?
Followed these instructions at the weekend. Now have a great inspection hatch and a new fuel sender and a fuel guage that works. it really is a 15min job.
The measurements werent quite right for me tho. I drilled 2 holes and shone a torch through to see if I was close. It was further back towards the seat and further right than the measurements shown. Once located, just moved the template for the hole back and right a bit and used the 1st hole drilled (supposedly the centre) as the right hand side edge. Thre was a good 10cm gap between the floor and teh tank so no issues with the jigsaw, and the inspection hatch from BCF worked a treat. Used foam to seal but with hindsight, the pinchweld option would have been better. I can always replace that later down the track. It took about 4 times as long to change the speedo, change all the lights for T5 wedge LEDs and clean up all the contacts before finally swearing and cussing getting the xxxx thing back in with those stupid clips.
Love a pic of what you did. I changed fuel sender on our first kombi back in 06. I used a grinder, just tightened me bum cheeks and went for it.
I think I'm going to give this a go. Had the fuel gauge replaced as it was jumping around everywhere and know I have nothing, can't even see the needle. Mechanic doesn't want me to cut a hole, but seeing as he didn't do it while we replaced the engine, I don't really want to pay to have it removed again, plus pay all the extra money.
Virginia - are you sure it's the fault of the sender unit? What about your fuel gauge itself? Alpal has been my saviour when checking that.
We thought it was the gauge and had that replaced and it still doesn't work. That leads me to think it's the sender. Not that I know much lol
somewhere theres a full test procedure. ill look but someone may have ready access to it.
I would recommend running it first .
check that the earth from sender to body is sound. I found the screw was loose . you need access try the firewall tho. Illcheck if its possible without removal.
also. I have just dropped sons tank without dropping motor completely. [easier with motor out tho but dearer is paying someone]
There are ways to check gauge and sender once you have access to behind instrument panel and a sensitive ohmmeter (10-70 ohms)
For gauge/voltage stabiliser: With the sender wire disconnected from the rear of instrument cluster, short the sender pin on the gauge to ground. The gauge needle should move to full or empty as simulating 0 ohms (forget which)
For sender: Connect the ohmeter between the sender wire disconnected earlier and ground. If you have a rough idea how much fuel is in the tank you should get an indicative reading ie. half full = somewhere between 10 and 70 ohmns
However, to really check that the sender is functioning you could do what I did and siphon some fuel out and observe the ohmeter reading change as you do so.
Or the wiring?? Or the voltage regulator on the back of the cluster??
I thinks me has to give a bit more thought to this and a bit more investigation.
A couple of the posts on here say that you need to be careful not to bend the rod on the new sender when installing it otherwise you will affect the calibration. There are posts on thesamba that say you must bend the rod when installing a new sender to calibrate it yourself because the new senders are different or not calibrated.
I installed a new VDO sender when I did my resto but the fuel gauge has never read properly since then. The guage and sender worked fine before the resto but I thought I should replace the sender while the tank and engine were out. I did not do any calibration when I installed the new sender and am fairly confident I did not accidentally bend it.
I am wondering whether the new sender is compatible with the old voltage regulator (vibrator unit) or whether I need to either pull the tank or cut a hatch to play around with the sender. Has anyone had the same issue and what did you do about it?
I had an issue when I replaced mine but that was because the tank had a large depression in the top and bottom. It had sucked itself in at some stage.
Once I popped the tank back into shape it worked much better.
Sender, Gauge and Voltage Regulator (vibrator} all impact on accuracy. Sender has 2 adjustments. Ears can be bent to give 10 to 73 ohm range. Arm can be bent to reflect full and empty fuel levels. VR is adjustable to give an average uniform output voltage (4.2V if my memory still works). Fuel gauge has adjustment for range and zero. Fiddle with these at your peril. Very delicate. All suffer from age and wear and the wiring that connects it all together.
Does the Samba posting tell you how to calibrate sender??
there is a link on fuel gauges search for speedy jims link i posted years ago it also explains the whole circuit
Speedy Jim quick link
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