Brake problem

Hi Good Kombi Peoples
Have a problem with brake pedal not returning to normal position after depressing. Valerie has been sitting in shed for 20 years. New Disc pads were installed all that time ago but vehicle has not been moved. When she is on stands the front wheels are not free wheeling so something must be jamming somewhere. Any suggestions?
Cheerz
John.

 

First thing I would do is bleed the entire brake system. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water. After 20 years without use you might find that a lot of the seals are perished

 

My guess is they have just seized up.
Somehow you need to break the grasp on the wheels.

Bloody big and strong breaker bar bolted to the wheels and lots of jumping up and down.

Failing that you might have to remove the whole set up and take to workshop

 

Thanks Kai
After removing rear Brake Drums I found rear seals have leaked fluid so ordered new Brake Cylinder units from Just Kampers. I understand time affects all seals of any description, but the problem seems to affect the front discs grabbing & pedal not returning to normal position. Thanks for your reply.
Cheerz
John.

 

Thanks Bazza
Can turn wheels by hand just but can hear pads scraping on rotors. Have new rotors to fit so will have a look at Calipers & Pads when disassembled. My main concern was the sticking pedal may be a Servo problem. Cheerz. John.

 

There's a bearing through the chassis that the brake pedal works through, could be seized there, return spring around the bearing could be broken.
How hard is it to turn the wheels? A little bit or a lot?
Master cylinder piston might be seized as well

 

splitty, bay or t3?

 

Sorry Guys
Bay 74 Camper. This is first time for me. Should have started 20 years ago before I became a Senior. Maybe a reco on brake calipers would be a good place to start. They have to come off anyway, blown the budget & looking at possibilities. Thanks. Cheerz
John.

 

Thanks RS
Wheels do turn by hand but not freely. Just trying to Sussex the problem out before I disassemble front end.
Cheerz
John.

 

collapse of a flexible brake line could cause a side to be dragging or stuck on.

 

Had same on sons from sitting too long
Rust on discs reduces clearance plus callipers seized.
A thorough reco sorted them .
Easy job once you get pistons out.
Follow some utube links and use the compressed air. Be careful.
Best to machine discs lightly or if they are close or less than 11.5 mm replace.
New callipers a good price at vwheritage.

 

If it is pulling one way when braking it is normally a piston seized in a caliper that is causing it as cbus mentions.
You can get you calipers rebuild there is a kit to do it simple enough.

 

Thanks all, have decided to put new disc's on & reco Calipers. Got a 2nd hand Servo (Thanks Bern) & new Master Cylinder, no short cuts here. Bern has a good saying! You need good brakes before seat belts. Quote of the week.
Cheerz
John.

 

Smart decision...after 20 years the entire system would be gummed up at best and more likely completely seized. I just replaced the discs, drums, Wheel cyls, lines and vac hoses and rebuilt the Master cyl and calipers, I didn’t count the exact cost but it was around $500 and well worth it.
Is the Master Cyl you got new or reconditioned? I couldn’t find a new one.

 

VW Performance Croyden in Melb has new Master Cylinder $199 plus postage. Cheap. Cheerz John

 

So sorry fellas, made a error there & hit the wrong button. Kelly & Ingrid @ VW Performance will be after my blood! Their Master Cylinder was around $100 bucks plus postage. Old eyes syndrome. Cheerz John.