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Buggergary's 76 sopru camper Flipper

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by Buggergary, Feb 11, 2019.

  1. Buggergary

    Buggergary Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    90
    Location:
    Smithton Tasmania
    Well it was a bit of a dodgy day weather wise :( But I went out in it and fitted the battery, checked the oil, then turned over the motor for the first time since I had it out for the big clean up.
    I
    disconnected the coil till I was sure I had oil pressure and was happy that the light came on then went out after a bit of winding over :)
    I checked the fuel filter and that had filled and I could smell fuel near the carburetors so I was pleased that I had the fuel pump lines on the right way and the pump was still good.
    So I popped the lead back on the coil and was expecting it to try to fire a bit but nothing :(
    I started doing some checks about to see if I had missed something and there it was :confused: I had left the points unplugged in the distributor when I had it apart to clean and adjust it o_O
    So with this plugged back in I gave it another go then this happened :D

    https://i.imgur.com/9YcI0vx.mp4

    Not sure if that link will work or not but away it went.:) There was a bit of smoke for a bit because i had it on it's side a couple of times and it still had the oil in it but it settled down as it warmed up. I was pretty happy for the way it started and was running as I had had everything off it and most things were pulled apart and reassembled.
    Once it was warmed up I set the timing with a timing light and it run even better again so very happy here as I did a lap of the drive way and got to put it in the warm shed and out of the drafty and wet carport.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2020
  2. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,691
    Location:
    newcastle
    Nice work. Great job @Buggergary:D .
    Taswegia wins again!
    Now just to extend the drive lap;).
    Cheers
     
    Buggergary likes this.
  3. Buggergary

    Buggergary Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    90
    Location:
    Smithton Tasmania
    tks David yes I'm keen to go for a longer run but 'm thinking I should go through the brakes first :) They seem to work ok but they haven't been used in 10 or so years so they need a good going over I reckon.
    The drive way is a big circle so I can do a few laps but getting out of first might be a challenge o_O
    Think I have that link working now after a few edits lol
     
  4. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,691
    Location:
    newcastle
    Be bold....maybe brakes not needed;). Go flex them in the drive to find out if they work;).
    Cheers
     
    Buggergary likes this.
  5. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,569
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Often the discs rust up or calliper s seize.
    Check that they are not dragging / overheating disc.
    A flush is needed to ensure moisture is cleaned out of lines and cylinders.
     
    Elsie 76 and Buggergary like this.
  6. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,983
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    If they haven’t been used in 10 years, as you say, you should go over them properly before heading out on the road.
    As Col mentioned above, brake fluid should be changed to minimise contaminants. Calipers crud up inside from lack of use.....easy enough to crack, clean and put a seal kit through....check the pistons for sign of rust...replace if necessary, ie if ANY rust is found on the travel line.
    It’s not the speed that kills you......it’s how you stop.
    Brakes are important and not to be second guessed.
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
    Buggergary likes this.
  7. Buggergary

    Buggergary Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    90
    Location:
    Smithton Tasmania
    Yes going through the brakes is a must have been doing them on my beetles for the last 20 years :)
    Have already run new fluid through and fitted new rear hoses and have the front ones ready to go. The plan is to strip each corner one at a time and clean, paint and restore before heading out on the road.

    Did a bit of wiring today the wiring to the carbie solenoids and chokes was a mess of bad plugs,joints and hard brittle wire. It also looked too short and looked untidy so I made up a new loom that is routed round the engine neater and all connections have new plugs so hopefully this will stop any potential problems in the future.

    I also completed the CV joints now it is back on the ground and had a run around the driveway. I slipped a screwdriver under the boot on the axle and released any trapped air so the rubbers sat uniformly then crimped the ring clamps off to seal them.

    The next job was the oil temp gauge. When I had the engine out I drilled and tapped for a temp sender in the sump down near the fuel pump. I also ran a 5 core trailer wire cable from the engine bay to up under the dash for any future connections I may need down the track and will use one of these wires for the temp sender feed to the dash.

    Today I ran a wire down through the tinware and fitted some heat sheath to the wire,a ring crimp and bolted it on to the sender.
    Next job was to remove the instrument cluster and take out the blank and with a hole saw cut a hole for the gauge, I then cleaned off the rust and painted the blank black.
    I then started the wiring connections under the dash hooking up the dash light,earth and power from the ignition then finally the sender wire. Thats as far as I got today :)
    95696922_623601974893862_3892139654723403776_n (Small).jpg 95491246_893698964482898_2995599303658962944_n (Small).jpg
    95825958_705262913612631_8238906880538181632_n (Small).jpg
     
  8. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,569
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Thorough :cool:.
     
    Buggergary likes this.
  9. Luna76

    Luna76 Active Member

    Messages:
    83
    Location:
    Gisborne, Victoria
    Will have to do the same for mine-looks good, great work!
     
  10. Buggergary

    Buggergary Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    90
    Location:
    Smithton Tasmania
    Had a bit more of a play with electrics today.

    The new gauge had a led light in the display and it was way too bright compared to the other dash lights. After a dig about in my plastics junk pile I found a small white silicone cap off something that fitted over the led snugly and diffused the harsh light of the led enough to make it not so annoying. I had some new spare globes that fitted the dash lights so i replaced them all which made them a little bit brighter. I still think they are a bit dull so might have to invest in some led's at a later date.

    While finishing wiring in the gauge I had to sort some dodgy wiring as there wasn't anywhere to pick up a positive feed that switched on with the ignition so I went all the way back to the fuse box and ran a new fused line over behind the dash for the temp gauge and to hook in the new electric pump on the windscreen washer.
    I probably over do it with the fuses but I fit one to every new line I run even if it's coming from a fused connection you can never be too careful with 12v electricity Its only low currant but it can melt wires and burn stuff very easily and all it takes is a wire to chafe somewhere and then the smoke gets out and then it can be all over real quick :eek:
    When hooking up the positive feed I found some dodgy connections and some bad wires that I need to address asap before I start using it so I have unplugged them for now just in case.

    Last year when I first got it and was trying to sort the wipers I prewired a micro switch in place of the dodgy air switch that always leaks in the steering column. I had brought an electric pump and modified the water lines on the standard tank so I could hook it all up at a later date.Well today I finally got that job finished and happy to say it all worked nicely :)
    49183589_501280030397916_7115129091266707456_n (Small).jpg WP_20190123_16_15_27_Pro (Small).jpg

    I'll have to get some installed pics next week as I've run out of days off again and it's back to work tomorrow there just aren't enough days off in a week :(
     
  11. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,650
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    Totally agree on the LED's. They are bright but great for those with tired old eyes.

    I am also looking into the issue but I need to get a globe out to go and try and find an LED replacement.
     
  12. Buggergary

    Buggergary Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    90
    Location:
    Smithton Tasmania
    Been a couple of weeks since an update. I could blame running out of parts but I've just been a bit slack now Tassie winter has kicked in lol.
    I decided the next step was the brakes and since i was working on the rear I thought I would start there.

    So I grabbed my 36mm 3/4 socket and breaker bar and headed for the hub nut and that was my first lesson for the day beetles may be 36mm but kombi's are 46mm :mad:.

    I like to have the right tools for my vehicles where possible so onto ebay and a 46mm impact socket was purchased then it took nearly 3 weeks to get here from victoria :mad:

    I now realize that i could have removed just the drum and worked on the brakes but I'm glad i removed everything as the seal looked a bit crappy and the grease looked a bit old and dry around the bearings so I decided to remove them and repack at the same time.
    DSC03454 (Custom).jpeg DSC03455 (Custom).jpeg
    DSC03456 (Custom).jpeg
    under the drums everything was covered in dirt ,rust and grease so I removed everything to clean it all up
    DSC03457 (Custom).jpeg DSC03458 (Custom).jpeg
    after a light blast in the sand blast cabinet they come up nice and clean I then hit them with the rust converter/primer then painted them with some high heat paint.
    DSC03461 (Custom).jpeg
    I then stripped the wheel cylinders and found that I couldn't re use them as they were too pitted to restore. So back onto the net and a set was ordered for each side as well as 4 new seals for the wheel bearings.
    DSC03460 (Custom).jpeg DSC03446 (Custom).jpeg
    While waiting for them to turn up I tackled the wheel bearings. What a B of a job it was to remove the large circlip that holds the inner bearing in. After a couple of hours trying to get an assortment of tools to work I finally managed to to get them out :confused:

    Once out I removed the inner bearing and spacer and cleaned out the old grease. The outer roller bearing can't be removed without wrecking it so I left it in place and washed and repacked with new grease in the hub.
    I then cleaned up the inner bearing and repacked that one as well then re assembled the spacer and bearing back into the hub and re fitted the circlip. ( much easier to install than remove the dam thing )

    Once the seals and cylinders turned up i fitted the seals and the center hub.

    I then disassembled the new cylinders as I have herd they aren't very good quality these days. I didn't like the finish inside so I cleaned them up and honed them with a drill and some wet and dry. I then coated everything with silicone o ring grease and reassembled them.
    DSC03450 (Custom).jpeg DSC03451 (Custom).jpeg
     
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  13. Buggergary

    Buggergary Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    90
    Location:
    Smithton Tasmania
    I then reassembled the backing plate, shoes and cylinders then re fitted the drums.
    DSC03462 (Custom).jpeg DSC03463 (Custom).jpeg
    The brake lines were hooked up and the shoes were adjusted with the star wheels that now moved freely as they were completely seized up when pulled apart.
    The brake fluid was topped up and I bled them with the vacuum bleeder to get all the air out of the new cylinders.
    To remove the axle stub I had to unbolt the CV's that I had restored and fitted earlier in the post so I had to refit them and re torque them again:confused: sometimes you get ahead of yourself and have to undo stuff you have already completed .
    I re fitted the wheels and then tightened the center nut with a 1.5M pipe on the socket bar to get it tight enough and re fitted the split pins :) Job done now to move to the front wheels and hopefully those won't be as much work as the rear.
     
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  14. Buggergary

    Buggergary Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    90
    Location:
    Smithton Tasmania
    Moved on to the front brakes these days off. First I dismantled and checked things out in case I needed any new parts.
    It all came apart without any dramas and on inspection a good clean up and paint should be all it needs.
    First up was the soft hose replacement everything undone ok so it was a quick strip and reassemble.
    I also painted on some rust converter/primer on the hard hose and some never seize on all the threads for future removal.
    DSC03466 (Custom).jpeg
    Next i pulled the calipers apart and removed the rubber boots and blocked off any holes and gave it a quick run in the blast cabinet to clean it up on the outside.Once clean and all the sand blown off it I started removing the pistons one at a time to clean off any rust or build up.
    DSC03467 (Custom).jpeg DSC03468 (Custom).jpeg DSC03469 (Custom).jpeg
    To remove the pistons i have an air fitting that I can screw into the brake line connection then I use an adjustable G clamp to hold one piston then cover the caliper with a rag and blow some compressed air slowly into the air fitting till the piston POPS! out. Make sure you keep your fingers out of the caliper during this part or you could lose a digit very easily :eek:
    I then fish out the piston seal and soak all the seals in some methylated spirits till I am ready to reinstall them.
    With some very fine wet and dry I cleaned and polished the piston , piston cylinder and seal groove till they looked like new then coated them with some silicone o ring grease ready for reassembly.
    I then cleaned up the seal and rubber dust cover and fitted the seal back into the cylinder.Putting the piston the right way up I pushed it back into the cylinder and fitted the dust seal.
    It was the same for the other piston after holding the one I just cleaned with the G clamp and POPPING out the other piston it was cleaned and reassembled.
    I give the rest of the caliper components a quick clean in the blaster and coated them in rust converter/primer then painted the caliper before putting it all back together again.
    DSC03471 (Custom).jpeg
     
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  15. Buggergary

    Buggergary Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    90
    Location:
    Smithton Tasmania
    While the caliper was off I decided to re pack the bearings while i was working in that area. I removed the speedo E clip and the bearing cap then the locking nut and washer. The hub pulled off ok so then i removed the three bolts holding the backing plate and removed it.
    I then cleaned up the spindle and wire brushed the steering knuckle assembly before painting on some rust converter/primer.
    DSC03470 (Custom).jpeg DSC03472 (Custom).jpeg
    With the disk hub off I realized that these can be separated so i removed the allen head bolts and separated the hub from the disk. I then put the disk and backing plate in the blaster for a light clean up keeping the blasting away from the disk surface. I didn't blast the hub as I didn't want to get the sand inside the bearing part of the hub so I just wire brushed that down before washing it up in petrol. I then painted the backing plate,hub and cap in heat proof paint keeping the paint off all the mating surfaces and disk face.
    DSC03474 (Custom).jpeg
    I then washed the bearings and checked them out and the rollers and cups were all in good condition so I just repacked them and filled the hub with some fresh grease. The wheel seal looked good as well so that was cleaned up and reused .
    DSC03473 (Custom).jpeg
    Now all the components were ready to be reinstalled so I moved back to the kombi and started fitting things to the spindle.
    DSC03475 (Custom).jpeg
    First the backing plate and hub. Then the disk and caliper.
    DSC03476 (Custom).jpeg
    Once it was all together and brake lines hooked back up I bled the air out of the caliper using the vacuum bleeder.
    Job done and wheel refitted and back on the ground. :)
    That's the passenger side done next days off hopefully I'll get the drivers side done then all the brakes and wheel bearings will have been completed :D
     
  16. Buggergary

    Buggergary Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    90
    Location:
    Smithton Tasmania
    Hi all have been pretty slack over the last few months and the poor old kombi has been missing out. I have been working on one bit that has turned into a long term project and that is the cracks in the steering wheel.
    I had a bit of a look about the net on how to restore cracked steering wheels and it didn't look that hard so I thought i would give it a try.
    95825958_705262913612631_8238906880538181632_n (Small).jpg
    First I removed the wheel and set about opening up the cracks so they could be filled with an epoxy glue.
    121135810_3238978282822898_5501677753760908357_n (Custom).jpg 121449791_830369684439634_5543501205882929151_n (Small).jpg
    Once clean and roughed up a bit I used masking tape to make a temporary mold then mixed up some epoxy two part glue and filled the cracks.
    DSC03449 (Custom).jpeg
    This is where my plan went a bit pear shaped as the epoxy didn't work like I thought it would and I had hard time getting it to fill the crack and set properly. I'm not sure if it was the cold tassie weather or what it was but that stuff refused to harden completely even after sitting for several weeks. Eventually it got solid enough to stay put but it didn't go as hard as I thought it would and is still a hard flexible state under the next step the auto filler. I am thinking a little bit of flex might allow things to move a bit without cracking again but only time will tell.
    DSC03464 (Custom).jpeg
    The ring on the bottom had split away from the hub as well so I used a plastic superglue to re attach that and let the whole lot set for about a month before I started to sand it back to shape.
    DSC03465 (Custom).jpeg
    After a heap of sanding and a couple of re patches I cleaned the whole wheel with wax and grease remover and etch primed the whole wheel. I then used an auto gloss black touch up spray pack to give it a few coats then finished off with a few coats of a clear touch up spray pack.
    DSC03513 (Custom).jpeg DSC03514 (Custom).jpeg
    It's hard to get a good picture of it as it's pretty glossy and smooth but it looks 100% better than before I started :) I don't know how it will stand up to the stresses it will be put under but we will see how it goes.
     
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  17. Jethro

    Jethro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    669
    Location:
    North West Sydney
    An excellent attempt, I'm keen to see how it goes, I have the mandatory crack in mine too!
     
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  18. TeeBee

    TeeBee Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    554
    Location:
    Outer East Melbourne
    Well done! Looks great.
     
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  19. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,691
    Location:
    newcastle
    @melissa used a powder fill in product on one of hers. Perhaps she could remind us all of what was used.
    Nice outcome Buggergary:).
    Cheers
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2020
    Buggergary likes this.
  20. melissa

    melissa Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,667
    Location:
    Newcastle NSW
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