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CV Joint Knock

Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by Kryten, Dec 20, 2016.

  1. Kryten

    Kryten New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Location:
    Tumut
    Question.
    i have a knocking noise in the back of the bus, passenger side. Knocks when i hit a bump.

    Replaced shocks few weeks back, huge difference and no noise. Gradually getting a knock.

    I do believe it is the CV. When i grab it and move it in and out the passenger side " bottoms" out and delivers a knock. The driver side moves no bottom out or knock. Rotation backlash not so bad. Boots all good surprisingly.

    I take it the CV is past its use by date?

    Any help appreciated.

    Thanks Mick
     
  2. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,141
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    CV should only make noise on turns
     
  3. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,562
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Normaly would consider a cv to show more than a little rotational slack if buggered.
    Initialy will show clicking on turns or in line if really stuffed.
    Noise usualy load related

    That the knock went away with new shock and returning now I would check shock bolts .
    Especialy the top one.

    Important to also check torque on all cv bolts.
    You need a torque wrench to do properly but a socket drive will do initialy in case some are realy loose if no t wrench avail.

    Regrease cv' if they havent been checked in recent memory.
     
  4. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,354
    Location:
    Brisbane
    How far apart is the nocks
     
  5. Kryten

    Kryten New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Location:
    Tumut
    Thanks for the tips gents.

    Feel bit like a goose as the top shock passenger side was loose. Did climb under and shook everything, not the same as putting a spanner on though.

    All good.

    Again many thanks.
     
  6. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,562
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Be careful about overtightening if it feels like its about to 'give'.
    The top nut is spot welded on the inner end of rube and its common for them to fail which is a mongrel as access is usualy impossible.
     
  7. Kryten

    Kryten New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Location:
    Tumut
    Yep, was careful not to do that.

    Thanks formyour help.
     
    cbus likes this.
  8. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,807
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Another happy KC customer! :D
     
  9. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    3,012
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    Might be what i need to look at. Was getting close to looking in that area. Been chasing a problem for months, but the "dead weights" in the back don't seem to understand the sound I am trying to locate (too much listening to their Ipods and not listening to the Commander and First Officer up front)

    Thanks

    Adrian
     
  10. PUCH 1HM

    PUCH 1HM Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    Mildura, Victoria
    Strange thread My Syncro has the CV knock or bottoming out at the wheel end. Has new Bilstiens and new CV's and boots the only way I can stop the noise was to stretch the inner boot to make it pull the CV away from the wheel axle. So keeping the thread going what have I done wrong. You can reach in and grab the shaft and pull it back and forth causing it to knock on the axle shaft but not on the G/Box end. It knocks even when driving on a very smooth road, not as bad now I've stretched the boot.
    Thanks Bob
     
  11. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,737
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Is the circlip on ,the end of the shaft at that end causing the CV to move. It might of come off and wasn't on properly when installed. Do what was mentioned in the above posts and check the bolts on your shocks as well.
     
  12. PUCH 1HM

    PUCH 1HM Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    Mildura, Victoria
    Thanks Wayne yes all the above checked next thing is to remove the shafts to check circlip and measure the length even thinking of placing a thin spacer between the CV and axle al ah Porsche or just put up with noise it not that loud but I know it's there. One thing I noticed there was a washer put on between the CV and circlip which wasn't there on the original setup !!
     
  13. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,737
    Location:
    Seven hills
    On the early bay set up the washer/spacer went on first then the CV then the circlip. It was done away with in the later model bays. Not to sure how T3's are done ! The washer /spacer is dish shape and the dish side faces the CV.meaning (If you had a bowl the contents of the bowl would face the CV joint):confused: If that makes any noodles and soup out of things:rolleyes:
     
  14. PUCH 1HM

    PUCH 1HM Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    Mildura, Victoria
    Thanks, When the shafts come back I saw the spacer/washer and quizzed the fellow about it he said the CV's come with them so he fitted them, didn't matter the original configuration didn't have them. will just have to learn to do things myself couldn't stuff things up any worse LOL looking at workshop manual I just got doesn't show any washer/spacer. :(
     
  15. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,737
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Like I mentioned they did away with them after 74 sometime.72 kombi had them my 76 didn't . It does mention in one of the manuals that you can leave them out but I've always but them back on. Some kits have the spacers some don't! Comes down to quality and costs ? Doing CVs are messy at the best of times doing them twice doesn't make it any better.:(
     

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