Discussion in 'Fuel System & Electrics' started by Alpal, Aug 31, 2009.
Think I've seen them on eBay as well.
Auto parts places may? Stock them but I found a lot don't.
Blue LPG.com.au have the solenoids and tachometric relays (Peel CP30) for an acceptable price.
Thanks for the tips guys.
I’ve got a mechanical fuel pump, so there’s no chance my fuel pump will continue running if the engine stops, or if the fuel hose detaches from the carbs in an accident. I’m thinking a tachometric relay is not applicable in my case but happy to be set straight if there’s another angle
has anyone used one of these accident shutoffs for there electric pump
Yes, here’s the right valve. I wish I had just ordered through them to begin with as I had all sorts of bum steers and ended up unable to install a valve yesterday
Hmmm never heard of it but I guess others may have.
Fitted one of these inertia switches years ago, also modified it by fitting a LED to indicate it had activated..................hopefully by not running into something.
They are good in a higher velocity accident but useless if you pop a fuel line.
It would probably work because if i pop a fuel line and catch fire i'm just jumping out.
Valid point, but I think I would rather limit the damage.
Vehicle also fitted with 3m Blazecut.
Just a few thoughts on Blazecut.
It is a very good idea, and I am happy with mine, but remember if there is enough heat/ignition source, fuel and oxygen after the vapour from it has cleared you are potentially back in trouble and no way to stop it. It is a one shot that will hopefully alert you to the issue as you see the vapour spreading out behind. I wouldn't be opening the engine bay lid until you are sure the fire is out and whatever ignited it is removed whether it be heat or sparks. A secondary system (even a handheld extinguisher or 2), and the regular maintenance are the best defence to avoid a fire but sometimes even that may not be enough.
There is no perfect system to totally remove all risk. A not uncommon scenario is a fuel line split in the engine bay. The engine will keep running until it runs out of fuel in the carbs, but if it is still getting enough even with the leak it will continue run and spray fuel (this can happen with both an electric pump with a tachometric relay and with a mechanical pump). One spark from a loose connection or a damaged HT lead and away it goes. Blazecut will put it out but if there is enough heat or damage to the wiring, once the Blazecut vapour has dispersed it doesn't take much to reignite the fuel that is over the engine bay, at which point you need the handheld.
That said go for the 3 or 4m which has a greater amount of material and will extend the time of exposure to the fire and hopefully stop it long enough to reduce a reignition.
Just about to fit the Peel tachometric relay and fuel solenoid cut-off valve from BlueLPG as above. (electric fuel pump was already fitted to the car when I bought it). I know the Peel relay comes with instructions but anyone have a simple wiring diagram when using all three? (mainly interested whether you could run a single power source to fuel pump and solenoid, etc). Thanks, Jim.
Relay out becomes power in to the cut off and fuel pump
Great. Makes sense. Thanks.
I would fit a 30 Amp relay switched by the pump output from the peel unit as the contacts are only rated to 12 amps. Much cheaper to replace a relay than that unit. A lot of pumps draw a high amperage on startup and could damage the peel unit.
We tested a facet pump and it was approx 1amp.
Ok, at the price of the tachometric relay ($45-50) I would rather have it on a separate circuit with its own fuse in the relay($10 and with good headroom of capacity) controlled by the output pf the CP30 . Rotary vane pumps draw quite bit on start, and so do energising solenoids on the cut off, but once operating the current will drop back. I have had little to do with facet pumps, except seeing a number of them the same that had widely varying pressures(one as high as 10 PSI although supposed to be rated at 5 PSI), but they might have a spike current that a multimeter wont show (osilloscope will). That is what can cause the issues. Solid state relays dont have the contacts to burn out but are more expensive so they leave them out of a lot of cheaper electronic parts to save money. I am fairly certain the Peel CP30 has a normal relay as you hear it click when you start.
Just a thought.
Thanks for the input Adrian. Unfortunately I'm a visual person - does the attached diagram look right or have I stuffed something up? I must admit I had a couple of goes
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