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Engine removal jack

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by Ian and Shelley, Jun 15, 2019.

  1. Ian and Shelley

    Ian and Shelley Active Member

    Messages:
    190
    Location:
    Umina Beach
    Hello...

    I am looking at a new clutch and reading about engine removal..

    Everyone states the need for a high lift jack or ATV stand for engine removal...

    How high a jack is required ??
    Repco have a ATV lift with a height range of
    • Lifting Range: 115-375mm
    • Lift and lower a motorcycle, ATV, dirt bike, and more with the ease of hydraulic power
    Would this lift range of 115- 375 be enough to easily balance and remove a kombi engine?

    Thanks. Ian
     
  2. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,528
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Get under your bus and measure the distance between road and engine.... that's the minimum height you need.... Lots of good info. on engine removal here.... Cheers, Mark
     
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  3. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    501
    Location:
    Canberra
    Hi Ian, if you strip the engine down a bit, then you don't have to lift as high...however, here's a pic of the height you need to take an engine out complete. Standard kombi jack and jack stands - jack one side a bit, then the other until you are high enough. they do like to sway sideways a bit once the wheels are up but a bit of wood or similar under the wheels stops that.

    I use a standard trolley jack under the engine and a platform I made (it has a circular cutout at the bottom so that the jack can't slip out and a bit of angle at the back that I bolt the rear engine support to so that it all moves together.

    Patrick

    engine out.jpg
     
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  4. Mellow Yellow 74

    Mellow Yellow 74 Active Member

    Messages:
    845
    Location:
    Sydney
    I don't think the height of the ATV lift is that critical, because it depends on how high you jack up the rear of the Kombi. Just jack up the Kombi to the height so the ATV lift supports the engine, then when you lower the engine you can jack up the body a bit more if necessary to clear the body when you pull the engine out.

    Also the standard Kombi jack is ok to change a wheel, but I wouldn't use it to jack both sides up onto stands. They are only designed to lift one side because they lift on an angle so if you put one side onto a stand then jack up the other side it can push the body off the stand.
     
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  5. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    501
    Location:
    Canberra
    found a pic of removing another engine (partially stripped) that shows the platform trolley I use with a trolley jack

    ...this pic was prior to screwing on some angle at the back to connect to the rear engine hanger - so you don't push or pull the engine off the trolley. another thing that's handy to have is a variety of different thickness of wood to put under the wheels of the trolley so it can't topple sideways.

    don't forget to centre the clutch plate - even then, the engines still don't like to slide in as easy as you would like...make sure you have equal distances between the gearbox and engine all the way around. if you are absolutely sure it's all lined up then you can put a long bolt through one or two of the engine mounts you can wind a nut on and pull the engine into place

    these tools also make it easier
    https://www.justkampers.com.au/00-533-5-k-clutch-aligning-tool-t2-1974-to-1979-t25-1979-to-1992.html
    https://www.justkampers.com.au/00-500-3-0-flywheel-locking-tool-for-all-6v-and-12v-engines-1946-1992.html


    Photo0915.jpg Photo0917.jpg
     
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  6. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    501
    Location:
    Canberra
    another way to stop the sideways sway is to push your ramps in sideways under the wheels as you are jacking the van up IMG_20160330_150924.jpg
     
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  7. Squidy

    Squidy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,663
    Location:
    Eumundi
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  8. Ian and Shelley

    Ian and Shelley Active Member

    Messages:
    190
    Location:
    Umina Beach
    Thank you for all the info....

    all advice most welcome..
     
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  9. Ian and Shelley

    Ian and Shelley Active Member

    Messages:
    190
    Location:
    Umina Beach
    Once the engine is out...what replacements or maintenance should be carried out while we have better access..

    I have ok compression on all cylinders so won't be doing heads or similar but what should also be checked and replaced..

    Thanks
     
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  10. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,797
    Location:
    Goulburn
    i used to use a trolley jack and couple of blocks of wood.
    once I got the engine down to ground level I'd slide a couple of bits of heavy duty 25mm conduit under it and roll it out.

    Now I have an ATV jack from super cheap - need to jack the back up a long way to get it out with the ATV jack though.

    If you now idea of the condition real history maybe pull the tin ware from around the oil cooler and make sure its nice and clean, check the flaps in the cooling system work (highly unlikely) or at least are stuck in the max cooling position :)

    rear main seal OK?

    thrust bearing and clutch

    if you fuel sender is dodgey now is the time to replace it :) along with the little rubber joiners in the fuel vent lines (on top of the fuel tank)

    Filler elbow

    Rusted battery tray replacement time
     
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  11. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    501
    Location:
    Canberra
    as per above and engine mounts
     
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  12. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,021
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Also check all Welsh plugs for any sign of leakage.

    I removed engine and auto transmission as one unit, but that’s not necessary it’s just what I did.
    4183EBC6-74B1-44AA-8591-268DB8C86289.jpeg
     
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  13. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,761
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Even though this method necessitates undoing cv's and clutch cable/ gear selector, I found it easier for the install.
     
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  14. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,821
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    I had never seen an ATV jack like this but it will be a definite improvement over the standard super cheap one that is really not high enough without blocks. It is rated to 350kg

    Adrian.

    F4C2B9B2-F7C4-4BC6-9D32-55AF42A06F4D.jpeg
     
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  15. SunnyJim

    SunnyJim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,589
    Location:
    carindale Brisbane
    With 2 T2 kombis and now Borat the T3 over a 9 year period I have now done several engine removals and reinstalls.
    But alas i still class myself level 1. I still think i am pretty crappy. I never said to myself "Geez that was easy "
    I put the kombi up on ramps then use an atv lift sometimes using an engine crane and of course blocks of wood .
    I always get it done but find it is real hard.

    After all this I think the incline is too much. The next time I plan to raise the front to be in line with the back and see how that goes.
    Like to hear from someone who thinks their method is piss easy.
     
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  16. Ian and Shelley

    Ian and Shelley Active Member

    Messages:
    190
    Location:
    Umina Beach
    Thanks everyone..

    I am now contradicting my earlier comment of " I won't be doing heads or similar but what should also be checked and replaced.."

    I am now thinking should I shouldn't I?

    Compression tests I think are "OK"...
    Most recent and accurate compression tests - all cylinders range from 85 - 100 psi, which isnt great but isnt terrible
    The engine doesn't smoke and doesn't burn any oil, oil temp is steady around 80 - 90 C on highway driving.


    BUT if the engine is out, shouldn't I Really take a quick peek at the heads, get them reconditioned now before they wear and cause major engine problems.
    The motor all looks original, so it needs some TLC after 40 plus years use

    Anyone know a good head re conditioner on the Central Coast / Sydney area / Newcastle

    What sort of cost would we expect for a refresh of heads


    Thanks
     
  17. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    501
    Location:
    Canberra
    Hi Ian, it's a different prospect pulling a complete engine out to put in a clutch, to pulling things apart.

    I'm probably not alone in thinking that air cooled heads are the weakest link in a Kombi engine...but if there isn't something telling me to pull it apart, I prefer to not disturb stuff (unless I'm tinkering for the fun of it)

    If you do intend to pull the heads off, you could start thinking about all the bits that need to come off to do it - and decide if it's easier to remove them before you drop the engine eg. exhaust and bottom tinware and plates up under the cylinders and heads can be hard to get to depending on your setup. You can even remove the fan, fan housing and flaps giving you a lighter and more compact lump to wiggle and drop (see pic in post 5)

    I think people are more inclined to drop in new heads than recondition air cooled heads. New ones are about $800 each - you'd spend close to that for labour, seats, guides, valves and springs.


    Patrick
     
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  18. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,528
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    x 2 for above.......buy once, cry once. ;)
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
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  19. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,761
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Your compression test numbers show significant wear and imbalance.
    I would buy a leak down tester, about $35, and run test on hot engine.
    Do a wet and dry test on rings.

    No problem pulling heads and doing a clean up depending what you find.
    If rings worn then you need to check bottom end is in good Nick before re ringing.
    Usual to go thru one cycle of recutting valves but not touching rings or bottom end.
    If crank seals leaking change them with quality replacements.
    Change spiggot bearing in crank if you have one.
    Probably oil cooler seals and dipstick bellows.
    Ensure good quality viton bellows.
     
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  20. Ian and Shelley

    Ian and Shelley Active Member

    Messages:
    190
    Location:
    Umina Beach

    Thanks Patrick..

    I was under the wrong impression that I needed to remove Exhaust, lots of tinware etc etc to drop the motor for the clutch replacement,
    However, watching this
    I am only required to remove rear tinware, a couple of fuel lines , some electrical connectors, undo a few bolts from engine to gear box and out it comes to access the clutch

    Might leave the heads well alone !
     
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