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Engine Removal

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by steve_4802, May 30, 2012.

  1. steve_4802

    steve_4802 Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast
    Right, so I'm looking at removing the engine of my 75 kombi to replace the cylinder heads. I've not done this before and want to better understand the difficulties associated with removing the engine (and putting it back in) before I decide to do it myself. If it all seems too hard, I can have the job done by the mechanic, but for now and weighing up both options.

    My engine - it's an 1800 with dual webber carbs and dual exhaust. Gearbox is the 4 speed.

    So, please, I'd love anyones input or thoughts regarding:
    - If it is hard to remove this sort of engine at home, with only an idiot to do it?
    - About how long should I expect it will take me, including removing all connections, labelling them, undoing mounts and lifting out.
    - Are the mounts easily accessible?
    - What sort of tools / jacks would I need and how exactly is it lifted out? Is the car on ramps, what sort of jacks etc?
    - Once out and after the work is done, is it much harder to get back in?

    Thanks heaps guys. If it seems reasonably easy I might use this as a chance to learn a little more about my engine. That said, I don't want to get half way through and find I can't get it completely out, or back in, so very much value any feedback.

    Regards,
    Steve
     
  2. farquire

    farquire Active Member

    Messages:
    589
    Location:
    newport sydney
    if your going to work on your own car splash out and buy yourself a good worksop manual like a Bentleys Offical Service Manual ,all your questions will be answered,use google to research your webers there's a heap of information out there or buy a weber tune up book,engine removal at home isn't hard ,first time will be slow and frustrating but thats how you learn,usually takes me about 4 hours out and back in ,some say they do it a lot quicker ,you'll need the usual tools socket set etc,trolly jack i like to use two but one is fine,good/safe car stands. can be fiddley to get back in ,its all about alignment ,get everything straight and aligned and they usually go straight in,same coming out it needs to slide off the imput shaft and bolts. mike
     
  3. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,563
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    Dont forget to get a few bandaids for when you take some bark off - I seem to do this every time I drop the engine in my low-light (which is a totally different setup to a type 4 motor so I wount comment on what to look out for.

    I have heard a new engine seal (black foam thing that encircles the engine) is a very good idea if yours is showing signs of age or any damage.

    A trolley jack is mandatory in my opinion.

    Best of luck.
     
  4. steve_4802

    steve_4802 Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast
    I spoke with mechanic and main problem will be getting the car high enough to pull engine out on trolley. Will car stands be big enough for this?

    I.e. is a trolley jack with 4 car stands all I need?
     
  5. Marmaduke

    Marmaduke Member

    Messages:
    56
    Location:
    Pottsville NSW
    Hi Steve, I've had my 1600 in and out of my '75 twice this week.
    Practice makes perfect!
    I have a 1600 Dual Port with a single carbie. I use chassis stands and besser blocks to get the kombi high enough.
    1- place a jack under the engine (with a board on it) disconnect and lower the engine
    2- now lift the bus. I have very basic chassis stands and I find I can get the bus high enough by using them on top of the cement blocks. I have to do it in two stages:
    --Jack the rear of the bus from the front Transmission mount (or other safe place) and put the chassis stands in. Drop the jack and put a besser brick under it to give it more reach.
    --Jack again and put besser blocks under the chassis stands.
    Don't be scared to have a go, you'll always figure out a way to complete the task once you commit to it :)

    Play safe with the car on jacks!

    Mark
     
  6. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,340
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    2 people better as there is often something that will hang up and another set of hands needed.
    Also someone to ring ambulance when the van drops on you:(
    I ALLWAYS put a tyre or 2 under the sills in case a jack or stand fails. Even when changing a tyre and Im not under the vehicle.

    cheers
    col
     
  7. farquire

    farquire Active Member

    Messages:
    589
    Location:
    newport sydney
    Last edited: May 30, 2012
  8. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,959
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    Did you mention why you are disembowelling the beast?
     
  9. vwfreak03

    vwfreak03 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,548
    Location:
    Hobart, Tasmania
    Yes he did.....in a diff thread.....heads r @#$%
     
  10. steve_4802

    steve_4802 Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast
    At least i hope it's the heads!

    Looks like I'll go ahead and do it next long weekend at the in laws place in Gympie - my driveway and garage isn't big enough or flat enough. So trying to now arrange a good trolley jack (might hire one) and other tools and bits and pieces.

    Please keep any advise or 'watch it's' coming as it's all valuable. I've got the Bentley Manual and Muirs book so hopefully that helps and gets us there. It'll be the blind leading the blind but with three days we should be able to get it out in that time. Then I'll bring the engine back to Bris to have the mechanic look at it and do a compression bench test and if it's the heads we'll order new heads and I'll fit them during the week and put it all back in the car the second weekend. At least that's the plan :umm:

    One area I'm a bit concerned about is anything related to fuel. I've got dual webbers (if that matters) how does one disconnect fuel lines without it pissing out everywhere? Do you clamp or plug the lines? If not, does it just drain for a little then stop, or does it keep going indefinitely in which case what do I do?

    Similarly, if I get tonnes of air in the lines and everything drains, as I expect it will, will I have trouble restarting? Or is it just a case of, once everything is connected, and provided fuel is in the tank it will just start? I'm thinking about priming issues? Or should this not be a problem?
     
  11. DakDak67

    DakDak67 Guest

    you can drop the engine down on the gearbox far enough to remove the heads, i did it on the side of the road years ago to replace a valve.
    Just buy a cheap trolly jack from repco, i've had mine for 20 years and it's done ALOT of work.
     
  12. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,340
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Im south of gumpie and can lend you a motorcycle lift which is easier for dropping an engine. Have a reasonably heavy duty jack if you need it as well.
    LIke Dak says, a jack is a realy handy bit of kit

    col
     
  13. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,959
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    I use ramps then jack and add blocks under the wheels. A bit of a time on each side. For a type 4 engine if you take off the carbs etc it reduces the height of the engine. Good luck.
     
  14. farquire

    farquire Active Member

    Messages:
    589
    Location:
    newport sydney
    clamp the fuel line at the fuel tank then remove it from the fuel pump usually good to plug it with something suitable,i usually use a phillipshead screwdriver or a bolt and clamp,it will drop a little fuel,air in the line won't be a problem latter on,worth putting a fuel tap in while your doing this then you won't have this problem againhttp://forums.kombiclub.com/showthread.php?30324-Cheap-easy-in-line-fuel-tap-Part-1
     
  15. steve_4802

    steve_4802 Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast
    Cbus, I may take you up on that. Can you please tell me what make and model the lift and jack is so I can see what it is and get an idea of min and max lift height, type etc.
     
  16. beep

    beep Member

    Messages:
    40
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Hey Steve. Good luck with your engine in/ out job. I've done this about a dozen times on my 74 and have just found a new tool that I think is the best way to go. In the past I used a big trolley jack and a couple of scissor jacks. You move the engine rearward and use the trolley to bring it down, and then the two scissor jacks to get it off the trolley jack onto the ground. Then push the bus forward and your engine is on the ground.

    Last weekend I did it with a motorcycle/ATV lift from cheap-as-shi!t auto (on sale recently for about $100 I think). Easiest thing ever. It goes high enough to pull the engine and low enough to roll the engine out from under the bus with no jacking or anything. Mine's injected though, so there isn't anything tall on top of the engine. You might have to take off your carbs and intakes, which you'll do anyway if you're changing the heads. I really couldn't believe how easy it was. No jacking the body; exhausts and rear engine mount and everything still attached. It was just disconnect fuel and electrical lines, four bolts on the bellhousing and another four holding the rear engine mount to the body. Out it came. This is on a steep and uneven concrete driveway too.

    Your main problem is getting the engine to move rearward enough to clear the tranny input shaft and studs at the bottom of the case. You have to take off the rearmost tinware and generally as much stuff as possible at the back to get clearance. That oil filler tube is a real pain. Its hard to remove with the exhaust and stuff on so I leave it there, but it always gets in the way. I think when I put it back in I'll leave the big cast fan shroud off for some extra room.

    Anyway enjoy it you'll have fun. And like Marmaduke said, practice makes perfect. Its heaps easier the seventh time..

    Chris.
     
  17. DakDak67

    DakDak67 Guest

    I'll say it agin just in case you missed it, you CAN drop the engine while STILL bolted to the gearbox and slide the heads off under the car.
     
  18. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,959
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    Good thinking 99. Save a lot of pain!
     
  19. beep

    beep Member

    Messages:
    40
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Hey DakDak are you thinking of the type 4 engine? Half of those head nuts are properly buried behind tinware and I can't imagine getting a head off without removing the engine or engine and gearbox. Actually taking out both may be easier if you have the kit.

    What's your roadside head change procedure?
     
  20. DakDak67

    DakDak67 Guest

    Take tin ware off before dropping.The repair kit includes , cold beer, a pack of winnies and a box of barbecue shapes..
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 3, 2012

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