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Engine removal

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Marksy, Jan 12, 2019.

  1. Marksy

    Marksy New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Perth
    Hi Guys,
    Thinking about taking engine out of Kate, would like to tidy everything up and paint the engine bay, looking at few posts on how to do it (first timer) , looking to leave gear box in so my question is how much oil comes out when separating engine from box ? Sorry if that sounds stupid but like I said “first timer”
    Cheers
     
  2. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,235
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Nothing should come out when you separate the motor from the gearbox , May be traces of oil if the flywheel seal has been leaking,nothing to worry about.
     
    David H likes this.
  3. Marksy

    Marksy New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Perth
    Awesome cheers heaps Wayne. Have a great weekend mate.
     
  4. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,070
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Although its easier with engine out, if pulling engine is only to paint inside of engine bay its possible with engine in.
     
  5. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,369
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    Advocate removal of engine and gearbox. Works for me.
     
    rstucke, oldman and David H like this.
  6. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,135
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    x2 for taking both at the same time.......
    I’ve done it both ways and found that it is easier and less hassle to drop the engine & gearbox connected, particularly if it’s a late bay. All you have to do, relatively speaking, is lift/drop them vertically and bolt everything up
    If you drop the engine only, wiggle room required for mating the engine to the gearbox on reinstall is very limited and can be really frustrating if everything is not perfectly aligned.
    (An ATV lift gives better support too......it’s more stable than a trolley jack....)
    Good luck, first time is always a nervous one.....but it’ll be fine....keep the swear jar handy !
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
    Alpal and rstucke like this.
  7. Marksy

    Marksy New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Perth
    Thanks cbus I thought about leaving in but would like to get in to all the nooks n crannies, little bit of surface rust that needs to be dealt with.
    Oldman if you’ve been there and done that I’m going to take your advice and drop both motor and box, thanks for the feed back, I’ll probably have a swear bucket by the end of it
     
    oldman likes this.
  8. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,070
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Out is easier .
    I would agree with dropping both as a unit as well.
    Few more bolts etc but less fighting if clearances tight.
     
  9. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    723
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
  10. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    723
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    I splurged and bought a rattle gun at Supercheap Auto as well as a cheap undersized compressor. The plan was to use it for wheel nuts and drive shaft CV joint bolts. The CV joint bolts are a 12 point (double hex) cap head and I strongly suggest you borrow or buy the correct tool for this. Some people have trouble getting them out and I’ve got to say it can be a tedious job getting them out by hand with limited space, long screws and dirt falling down on you the whole time. The rattle gun (combined with correct tool, appropriate extension bar and universal joint) whipped them out in an instant (and back in later!). Make sure you thoroughly clean out the cap head with a scribe or the like and, if necessary to get it to bottom out, tap the 12 point inhex socket into the cap head with a hammer (yes, the plant mechanic in me coming out again).

    Get yourself a Bentley manual and read it good. Be aware Bentley is mostly suited to USA versions and a twin carb 2L is a strange animal for them as they went to fuel injection much earlier.
     
  11. Marksy

    Marksy New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Perth
    Cheers for that dude appreciate all the input I can get before I jump in, do you take the carbs off because of the clearance needed to drop it all out?
     
  12. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    723
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Yes, I took them off because I wanted to be sure I wasn’t stuffing around trying to slide the engine out from underneath and finding the carbs hitting the body. I also knew the carbs had to come off anyway. I raised Harry quite a long way up and I don’t think it would have come out with carbs on. My car stands were on their top pinhole too.
     
  13. tintop

    tintop Active Member

    Messages:
    202
    Location:
    Canberra
    If you aren't set up for catching the weight then drop as little as possible...from memory the type 4 engine is about 140kg complete or 90kg with bits taken off. It's important to find the centrepoint so it doesn't topple off your jack.

    and yeah, doing the engine and gearbox together means you don't have to line up the input shaft and clutch...but you will have to deal with the axles/cv joints

    I also don't like to disturb too much, so if you are only doing it to paint the engine bay - you can take the engine out in one piece. You may even get away with dropping it, putting a tarp over it and working around it.

    Note: even jacking a bit at a time on each side - the van might tend to lean one way or another - keep adjusting your axle stands as you go - I also push my ramps in sideways under the wheels if I lift really high (I had a type 3 move sideways on the jacks at me many years ago)
    IMG_20160330_150924.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2019 at 8:20 AM
  14. tintop

    tintop Active Member

    Messages:
    202
    Location:
    Canberra
    Photo0915.jpg Photo0916.jpg

    here's some pics of one with the engine stripped down...don't need to lift as high - jacks, axle stands and slip a bit of railway sleeper under that wheel gap and you are done
     

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