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Engine upgrade ???

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by Guzzler Chief, Feb 28, 2009.

  1. kommodius

    kommodius Active Member


    Sorry Brennden.:eek:

    Mixing a glass of soapy water now........................................

    Ray & da Boyz
     
  2. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    22,221
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Kimm Garland @ Indian Automotive has a supercharged V6 in his Dual Cab.

    Hey Rayz, Brennden just loves the grunt from any air cooled VW engine :)
     
  3. Baldwithabeard

    Baldwithabeard Active Member

    Messages:
    1,212
    Location:
    Forest Lake, Brisbane
    your 1600 should be giving you more than 50mph...
    keep it simple and save your VW cash for a VW rainy day...(there will be one !)
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2009
  4. VolksBartz

    VolksBartz Member

    Messages:
    145
    Location:
    Newcastle/Sydney
    It was Kimm from Indian Auto that told me to never go watercooled in an aircooled car. Says his is da shit but has cost him a nice house over the years!
     
  5. Nigel

    Nigel Member

    Messages:
    628
    Location:
    Canvey Island, Essex, UK
    Engine Upgrades ???

    When you speak of a 2ยท2 big bore, are you referring to a VW Type 4 style engine, with substituted 78 mm stroke crankshaft and 96 mm bore cylinder barrels & pistons.

    I believe that suitable, second-hand Weber carburettors, can be obtained quite cheaply (i.e. much less than Aus$1,000) on E-Bay in Italy, which need only a few changes re jets and venturis.

    Why did your Kombi blow, at a mere 100 km/h?
     
  6. VanRex

    VanRex Member

    Messages:
    258
    Location:
    Central Coast NSW
    My 2c worth as well?
    If you are going to build a VW engine the one thing you should focus on is torque. Rod ratio comes into play here. Short rods & long stroke irrespective of the barrel size with a mild ground cam will give you a down low torquey engine.

    So 5.4 inch rods with a 82mm crank will give you good torque and the case will only need to be clearance a small amount (even running VW journals).

    Last performance engine I built was a 2110cc (82X90.5). All chromolly internals ($6k in parts) and gave 100hp at the rear wheels and would pull tree stumps out (kroozn63 can vouch for this). I also have a 71 lowlight with a Subaru WRX engine 200 RWHP (I did the transplant $2k to buy the engine).
    I have seen both sides of the argument.
    Do it yourself VW engine $6k parts, 100hp, @150k klms longevity.
    Do it yourself Subie engine $6k again, 200hp, @250k klms longevity. (Oh and tonight I just snapped my second clutch cable in a year with the 2100lb Kennedy clutch)

    If I had a split window van a Subaru engine would not get near it. But I have a semi daily driver that I do trips in so I am after reliable longevity with highway horsepower and future AC (currently fabricating).

    It all depends on what you will use it for and whether you are a purist and how handy you are. (all of mine can be converted back to stock without too much trouble)

    I hope I have not opened up a can of worms but just personal experience.

    BTW Nigel sensational engine writeup.

    Brendan
     
  7. understanding_mercury

    understanding_mercury Member

    Messages:
    299
    Location:
    Somerset, Tasmania
    But you see so much more doing a slower speed :) !!! I know next to nothing about engines - just wanted to say go the 1600!!
     
  8. VolksBartz

    VolksBartz Member

    Messages:
    145
    Location:
    Newcastle/Sydney
    Just got my kombi back from Boris in Campsie. Stock rebuild of 2L, was going to go webers but as expected other things ate up my budget (what budget!!!) so old carbies in with some reconditioning. Thing goes extremely well. Enough to get ahead of mad sydney traffic. Am running in so havent been on the freeway yet.
     
  9. Nigel

    Nigel Member

    Messages:
    628
    Location:
    Canvey Island, Essex, UK
    Engine upgrades

    Thank you Brendan. It's always nice to be appreciated.


    I'm not suggesting that one would wish to drive particularly fast, but it would be nice not having to drive a 1968~79 VW "1600" Type 2, at 25~30 mph in 3rd gear, in the motorway's uphill crawler lane, with the slowest of the heavily-laden lorries!
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2009
  10. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,622
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Digging Up An Old Thread, Seemed Appropriate.

    I have been chatting with a fella about a upright engine, 1641cc with a Garett T28 Turbo and 45 Webber(single). Built with all new parts on a reconditioned 1600 Beetle motor Block. Had him fire it up today and it sounds ballsy as all hell and runns very sweet.

    I know they are a favorite engine for a lot of Dune Buggys / Manx Buggies. Would that push a heavier bus along ok???

    It is cost effective, Thats why I ask. Otherwise I will have to spend a bit more again to build a 1916, And after hearing this engine I think it may put out a bit more than the 1916.
     
  11. Joels73 Panel

    Joels73 Panel Active Member

    Messages:
    1,215
    Location:
    Somerset, Tasmania
    I can honestly say that a turbo 1641 will push your bus along fine.

    In my opinion dont go 1916, you will most likely have problems. Go to 1776 and be safer. But you will still get a lot of power from a 1776 with nice carbs and a mild cam(Engle 100 for example.)
     
  12. Carter

    Carter Member

    Messages:
    750
    Location:
    Mount Gravatt East, Brisbane
    Turbo isn't real great for busses. Supercharging is better. Constant level of boost throughout the rev rang instead of waiting until you halfway through your usable revs and then the turbo kicks on for three seconds before you're over the rev limiter??
     
  13. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,622
    Location:
    Brisbane
    The compression it is running is 7.8:1

    Are you talking about the turbo getting to hot (I believe it is oil cooled only) or the engine. I am happy to put a couple of big oil coolers underneath. And was planning to put in a boost gauge, I would only be running minimum boost for the most part.

    Just want to know if it will work and how to get around these things. As I said, going this motor is going to save me a couple of grand, and that is if I built a new motor myself, If I get someone to do it it will be more again.
     
  14. malibu

    malibu Member

    Messages:
    387
    Location:
    albion park rail
    Mine has the p76 v8 and i couldn't be happier.All i have to do now is buy a service station!!Power to burn but very thirsty.Sit on 120kph @ 2500rpm.Holley 4 barrell carb is past its use by date but have a new one on order.Hopefully improve fuel consumption.
     
  15. Split 1

    Split 1 New Member

    Messages:
    7,037
    Location:
    Adelaide
    I looked into turbo for my split, but everyone I spoke to, and they were well respected engine builders said forget it, there isnt the available cooling in a kombi engine bay.

    In my opinion if you have a type 1 now, get some 1776 barrels, pistons ect a little bit of machine work,nice cam and some decent carbs, possibly some ported heads, dont go too big on the valves, a good exhaust and you will be impressed.

    It will be a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a stock 2.0l and then trying to fit it in your engine bay, and you would also need a gearbox.

    Have a read

    http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=393940&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2010
  16. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,622
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Dave,

    I have seen a couple of busses with it now and a heap of beetles.

    I had a little birdy send a message to me through someone in cairns. I don't know him but apparently he is a very knowledgeable turbo man and vw fan.

    He say the motor I was talking and the price I am paying and said I would be mad not to take it.

    So I am goin to take a risk, and I really hope I don't end up swimming in S..T creek.

    So if anyone has any advice for me as to how to cool the turbo in this thing please let me know.
    I have wondered about putting a hidden vent under the car that feeds more air into the engine bay. Would this work?
    I would assume this would also need a exhaust hole somewhere.
    And the option to cover it up incase I am ever in a situation where I have no option but to do a washed out bridge crossing.

    Any other ideas would be great. I think it is a blow through type so I can put an air cooler on it as well.

    Cheers,
    Brad
     
  17. Carter

    Carter Member

    Messages:
    750
    Location:
    Mount Gravatt East, Brisbane
    plumb in a specific oil cooler inline right before the turbo?
     
  18. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,622
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Are these the same as the under carrage oil cooler?

    These cooling items appear to be about $200. I can afford that, happy to have 5 of them if I need to. Just need to know if I need to!
     
  19. Carter

    Carter Member

    Messages:
    750
    Location:
    Mount Gravatt East, Brisbane
    i imagine so, however you can get really little ones too. I dunno the whole story but i'm assuming the turbo is oil cooled, (is there any other way?) so 1) where does the oil come from? The engine oil? which is already hot or 2) can you give it its own little system? But this will still need cooling.

    My train of thought would be, you're gonna have higher engine temps anyways, so you'll probs need an external oil cooler. so why not get a big one for the engine and turbo. But i'm sure you'll definately need one
     
  20. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,622
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I think it is oil only cooled. There is water and oil as well I think. I was half thinking about putting an external oil cooler onto my stock engine. Just for those really hot days sitting in christmas traffic.

    I plan on fitting oil temp gauges, boost and tachos as well so I can try to drive with minimum/no boost unless I need it.
    Problem with this is all the boost and tacho gauges are so fugly. I want to find a nice small one that I can hide somewhere without cutting into my dash.
     

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