Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by 68BUS, Nov 19, 2013.
They're total dicks Brad. That has happened to almost every set they made. Re glue and screw. Self tappers or get the frames tapped if you can.
Drill & Tap thread into frame. Research thickness of base material (frame) & thread pitch required & expected loads.
Obviously going to be a short 'grub screw' & a fine thread ( more bites per turn) given thin material! If you've got 2mm of metal it's a thread. Less than that it's a rivet!
They're for show not for go pop em out when parked leave em closed when going
Sort of the like the early Vintage Spped exhausts where the internals were just put in place then worked loose and rattled ..... now they spot/tack weld them in place
Nah, they don't work when stationary, too many fumes. They are a practical item all the way.
Oh, ok now I see what the problem is. some glues a pretty damn good but a some point they all seem to break down. But now, having said that ,J.B.Weld is a product that just might work in such a situation ,only problem is it takes 3 or 4 days to set and you would probably have to do a bit of emery work first ......that could lead to a corrosion situation, not good.
Or Sikasil-CAP perhaps?
Were the originals glued or just the replica??
Originals were mild steel to mild steel welded with captive nuts in the body. So much better then the repo's.
I have now fixed the safari windows. Slight hiccup with the internal rubbers but I will get to that.
I opted for a 4mm 304 Stainless button head screw. I chose this over my original thought of countersunk as it allowed me to get full thread purchase in the aluminium and a tiny bit in the stainless hinge instead of only getting ¾ in the aluminium.
I locked these with Loctite 222 – Low strength thread locker (So they can be undone without burring if required).
I chose not to remove the hinge as ½ the glue was still active and I did not want to bend the hinge.
The process was,
1- Pull apart windows.
2- (Optional Step) I repolished the frames with the bench polisher. Came up better then new.
3- Mark and centre punch.
4- Drill full way and then tap with intermediate tap.
5- Test fit all screws, then remove and Loctite.
6- Thin blade grinder of tails hanging inside glass cavity.
7- Fit windows up again.
Total cost was $30 for the screw, drill bit, tap, Loctite.
Screw Driver / Drill / Polisher / Grinder / Drill Bits / Tap.
I did run into one issue on refit, the old frame to glass rubbers had stretched and when I went to use them they both snapped.
I could not source new ones in Brisbane as I had to have windows ready for this Saturday so I used Selleys Quickfix Ultra Repair Superglue (From Woolworths – flexible and waterproof) to join them again. When I did this I also cut 10-15mm out of the length which was perfect as they fit the glass tight again.
Then a healthy spray of Rubber Magic and they went together perfectly again.
The not too obvious button heads.
The nice shiny frames all cleaned.
And the amazing Rubber Magic. Everything you touch after tastes terrible if you don’t wear gloves or barrier cream but worked great. Available from Rare Spares.
Good work on the repair Brad. Should hold it for good now. Looks neat too.
Still used a screw driver to put them in rather than a socket set. In fact I used my new U Buet tool set that Secret Santa got me at the Cunungra Kombi Camping.
But in reality I noticed they were socket drive after I posted the photos.
Still driving screws in with a hammer?
Something that looks neat and tidy .It will do the job, you have to be happy with that fix.
The heads are only there to unscrew and remove them, aren't they?
Hammer.....locally referred to as a Kiwi screwdriver.
I usualy use a grinder.
Or just chain saw both sides of the screw.
Screwdriver is for splitting car panels
And here's me thinking they were American Screwdrivers
Thats the one that can be adjusted to be right or left handed.
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