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How to change oil with External Oil Coolers?

Discussion in 'Splitty Tech Clinic' started by 68BUS, Aug 15, 2019.

  1. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Something I have been pondering since having the external oil cooler fitted was how do I go about changing the oil?
    Some questions I came up with,
    - Now the oil drain plug is not the lowest point of the system. I figure I will drain the engine first and check the mesh screen for debree.
    - Then should I pull a barb off near the cooler to drain the lower part of the system?
    - Do I need to change the new external oil filter every change?

    Then with filling it back up.
    - I am going to fit an in line thermo switch into the system. So if I fill the oil from the engine, it will only trickle slowly into the cooler. Which means the engine will read full but until the oil gets to temp it will not fill the cooler system, but when it does it will effectively drain the engine of oil.
    - I found a good page from Bergman about new systems and priming pumps to clear the cooler of debree.
    http://www.bergmannvw.net/Website-New/pages/Engines/engines_accessories-oil_cooler_kits.html
    Is this the same method I should use to fill the cooler system? Ie. use a priming pump to fill the oil system which contains the cooler first (Which may have to be done both sides of the thermo switch) then fill the engine case above?
    - And if that is the best method, how thick is our oil do you think? I have found this priming pump on ebay which is for fuel and states that is copes with 'Low Viscosity oil.
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-Ele...838236?hash=item2853b192dc:g:owQAAOSw3W5aoN-I

    Hopefully that is not a stupid question. Just trying to make sure I don't burn the starter out pumping the extra oil, or somehow only partially fill the oil and then have issues during the first longer drive.

    Thank you!!!
     
  2. paul77

    paul77 Well-Known Member

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    Not a stupid question IMHO. Or you may be over thinking it like me;)

    Good idea getting a thermostat in there. I believe it is possible to keep the oil too cool.

    I have one of those sandwich adaptors between oil filter and case (type 4) that has 80c thermostat. When I first installed cooler I hooked up oil lines to cooler only and then filled the lines/cooler using funnel before connecting to adaptor. This with cooler resting on floor/hoses elevated and before attaching under bus. I take bus for a drive to warm up the oil past 80c before draining the oil in the hope that oil may still be flowing past the thermostat and draining some of the oil in the lines/cooler when I open the sump plug. My concern that the oil level will drop too far is alleviated somewhat by already having fitted a deep sump. That said, when I do change the oil, fill back up to the dipstick mark and then after take the bus for a run past 80c the level doesn't drop significantly.

    I haven't worked out how to ensure ALL oil gets changed each oil change. Access to the couplings at adaptor is very limited as well as I am too lazy to drop the oil cooler.
     
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  3. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I agree, dropping the cooler to the floor each time would be a pain.
    I might install the thermo switch and do some drives before the oil change to get a feel for how long it will take to get the bus upto temp. I know without the thermo switch it would require a freeway trip to get there.
     
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  4. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
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    Agree with Paul - Not a stupid question ;) ..... while never having one fitted I have wondered how it is done & expect VW mechanics know a shortcut :rolleyes:
     
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  5. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

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    1,021
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    Probably needs a plug fitted at the lowest point.
     
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  6. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

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    Like an inline tap maybe. But with a locking device.
     
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  7. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Thing is to 1st know how the oil cooler is designed :rolleyes: you can see the inlet and outlet and the vanes :) but is there any tubing that "weaves" within the vanes ...... if tubing then I expect it would need some pressure to extract it o_O
     
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  8. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

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    Yes there is. It is a empi 96 plate one.
    So the pump might be a good option.
    Pump it out into waste drum. Then pump new oil through it.
    Could be a messy process if I stuff up.

    I assume that clamping the heavier wall oil hose would not do damage if it is only short term. Might have to use a few while pulling off barbs.
     
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  9. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

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    Is trying to get the remaining oil, in cooler, removed necessary.
    Basically the oil has been circulating happily at that mileage and will be diluted with the larger volume of new oil.
    I agree that it's a nice feeling to have all new oil but question if it makes much difference and suggest that practically it doesn't.

    A 5 K km change routine on a vehicle that gets changed under 6 months won't have much issue with particulate or acids so a complete change is probably unnecessary unless you run really rich and do a high percentage of short runs.
     
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  10. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

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    You could also use a flushing oil which could perhaps allow you to ignore draining the low point. I.e. drain oil, fill with flushing oil, run engine, drain flushing oil, fill with new oil.
     
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  11. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

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    Realistically, probably not. I guess I am now also running about 5 litres. So if I change the engine and external oil filter and drain I would be changing 60%+ of the oil. So maybe I just make the intervals sooner. Probably every 3,000km as I don't drive it that much.

    I might be worrying too much.
    Your a good voice of reason Col.
     
  12. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

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    A good hot hot run occasionally is good for getting rid of fuel or moisture that may be present in the oil.
    Half hr run on hwy is good.
     
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  13. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

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    If you've got an external oil filter then most of the grunge from the "dirty" oil will be in it &/or around the filter in the the sump plate/drain plug ...... so if you replace the external oil filter every change and clean the internal filter in the sump plate every 2nd or once a year then the oil will stay reasonably healthy/clean and avoid the need to flush the system completely.
    As Col said a regular run will also keep the contaminants at bay.
     
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  14. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Kahuna.
    I will give the strainer a good clean.given the cost of the replacement seals I figure I will just buy the big seal each time.
    Plus have a magnetic sump plug installed.
     
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  15. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

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    I've got a mesa 96 plate oil cooler with an external oil filter with a thermostat. Every 5000 km religiously or 12 months ,oil and filter gets changed. I've never been concerned about any remaining oil that would be left in the cooler and you wouldn't get it out without some form of assistance. Every oil change what oil I put in (6 pints) is about what comes out. A certain amount of oil will drain from the cooler once the drain plate and oil filter are removed ,it siphons out a bit.
    You want to make the process as easy as possible and don't make it a messier job then what it would be by kicking a pot of oil over your concrete :eek::oops:
     
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  16. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Wayne.
    I agree with the logic.
     
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  17. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Last time I went to get a replacement sump plug copper compression washer @ Mick Motors, Mick said he only gets them in a kit :rolleyes: ..... ok so you get the copper compression washer + 2 gaskets for the plate/oil strainer + 6 copper washers for the dome nuts on the sump plate ...... https://www.mickmotors.com.au/product-sump-gasket-kit-ty1-1200-1600cc-7685.aspx = cheaper than trying to buy a compression washer separate ;)

    Other interesting replacement parts and parts also https://www.mickmotors.com.au/category-lubrication-28.aspx :cool:
     
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  18. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

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    Thanks mate. I will drop by there on one of my driving days. (Pushbike to work these days in an attempt to lose the dadbod gut :rolleyes:)
     
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  19. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

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    dadbot gut = 1st to come ..... last to go when thee kilo's go on and you try to get them off :eek::confused:o_O
     
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