Discussion in ''How To' & 'Handy Hints'' started by ttmck, Jul 15, 2011.
its one hell of a read and very detailed info .
It should be stickied on here somewhere.Great info.thanks ttmck
The linked article is genius. I used this process on the weekend after not getting good results from Bentley and Ratwell tuning.
I did need to do a little editing to make it more streamlined and readable though.
I have edited it as Trav suggested and can email a copy to any who would like it. I have used it before the run to Swan Hill and can vouch for the brilliance. If there was a way to make it more sticky I would.
Too late for me as I've just gotten rid of my lacklustre 2L but should be very handy info for many people!
Would you mind emailing me a copy please? That would be great
Is it possible to post the edited version to this thread?
I should be able to. It is huge so I might have to break it up. Then you have the problem of printing it as you really need it with you.
I might be able to attach it a a PDF as well.
I'm guessing most of the changes relate to our lack of vac retard dissies and procedures resulting from that difference.?
Is it practical to just post that bit or does that get messy in the overall scheme of things?
Pdf would be great if it doesn't infringe on authors due rights.
I found where I had put it out before. It may not be the super edited version which is mainly spelling errors and a few notes about Aussie version buses. I have made it a Sticky, in Fuel Systems and Electrics, Bay Tech Clinic.
Trying to give credit to the original author where I can. This is by no way my original work.
Just in case..
I wasn't having a go about copyright.
Just considering the possible confusion between versions or if posting a modded version had implications.
I'm sure references to original author covers considerations.
This is easier for the AU versions.
I want to add a slight update that was something that caught me out over the last few day. Under Initial Adjustments you want to make sure that when you are fiddling with the throttle stops that the chokes aren't engaged (warm the engine before adjusting). Some pairs of carbs have long adjustment screws and you can set the referred to adjustment with the chokes closed, which also means the fast idle links are engaged. When the engine warms up you end up with an idle that wont go below 1800 to 2000 rpm.
Seems so obvious on reflection but I spent ages trying to work out what was going on with this totally unknown engine and carbs. It has had lots of odd problems including a rattle that seemed to be an internal bearing but turned out that it was the flywheel bolts only finger tight (clutch was torqued correctly!). All part of the fun of a new purchase but all in all nothing too terminal so far and the engine seems in good condition overall.
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