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Lowering engine to remove firewall

Discussion in 'Fuel System & Electrics' started by Xhai, Sep 12, 2021.

  1. Xhai

    Xhai Active Member

    Messages:
    68
    Location:
    Perth
    Hi all,

    I'm trying to remove the firewall on my kombi, it's a '73 with a type 1 motor. I need to get access to the fuel tank to have a look and replace the rubber filler and breather connections. It stinks of fuel, especially when I fill it up half way or more.

    I've removed all the screws on the firewall (including the ones underneath) and get a lot of movement, side to side and up and down, but I can't remove it fully. Feels like there's a lip at the bottom or something. Maybe it's tucked into the tinware or stuck behind the fan shroud.

    Can I lower the engine a few inches to help get some clearance and get the firewall out?

    I haven't lowered or removed an engine before, but from what I've been reading it can be lowered with a trolley jack by removing the 4 engine mount bolts and the transmission bolts, then remove throttle cable from carby? Any help and advice would be appreciated!

    Some pics here. Managed to get a photo of the tank - definitely looks like some fuel weeping is happening.

    Fuel Tank.jpg
    Firewall1.jpg
    Firewall2.jpg
     
  2. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,911
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Have you changed the elbow up near the filler opening. That is the main culprit. If smelling when half full or more it would be doing that first
     
    Xhai, Mordred and oldman like this.
  3. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,606
    Location:
    Seven hills
    yes you can lower the engine to get the firewall out, make sure it's balanced on a trolley jack.
     
    Xhai likes this.
  4. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    3,005
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    Looking at that pic, start with the fuel filler rubber as Barry suggests. Looks to be fuel staining coming from the right. Later bays without the fuel door have a rubber elbow which perishes and they dump raw fuel down in behind the paint can lid. Second, the join up behind the wheel well. Getting the firewall out with the engine in is not for the faint hearted and getting it back is even harder. But as suggested, lowering the engine is the way to do it, probably best with a ATV jack from Supercheap as they are much more stable. Type IV are a bit easier as you don't have the big fan housing in the way. Just make sure you support the gearbox and engine as a unit, and don't let them pull on the mounting rubbers.

    https://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelHoses.html

    Note: This is the slightly later diagram with the later fuel filler rubber but the rest is pretty accurate.


    [​IMG]

    Adrian
     
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  5. 77/kombi/surfer

    77/kombi/surfer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,064
    Location:
    Budgewoi N.S.W. AUSTRALIA
    might be worth looking at replacing your fuel sender whilst the engine is out to take the tanks out and replace the hoses and clamps if needed
     
    Xhai and Wiz like this.
  6. Xhai

    Xhai Active Member

    Messages:
    68
    Location:
    Perth

    Thanks for the input guys. Seems like my 73 has a metal tube all the way to the filler, no rubber elbow there (part no. 1 on the above diagram). But I've bought this new rubber part from metal tube to tank:
    Fuel Filler.jpg
    The fuel sender seems to work fine, but I reckon I'll get a new gasket for it and fit that while I've got access.
     
    Wayne murray likes this.
  7. Xhai

    Xhai Active Member

    Messages:
    68
    Location:
    Perth
    I've borrowed an ATV jack to drop the engine slightly. After I remove the engine mount bolts and tranny bolts, is there much I need to be cautious of? I've read about the shift rod potentially getting bent, but if it's only dropping a few inches should be ok?

    Thanks :)
     
  8. 77/kombi/surfer

    77/kombi/surfer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,064
    Location:
    Budgewoi N.S.W. AUSTRALIA
    At the front of the gear box you will find a joining coupler were the front and gear selector rear rods joins. Its only held on with 2 grub screws and a securing wire so if you und do one of them itll slide out to stop it bending. Also clutch cable and excelerator cable need loosening off so not to stretch or snap them.
    Check the fuel line for slack so when you drop the motor its not ripped off and leaking fuel every were.
     
    Wayne murray likes this.
  9. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,634
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    ......or disconnect the shift rod, leave the tranny bolted up and drop the lot.......saves a 5hitload of angst.
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
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