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Maisie_the_kombi

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by BrianT, Apr 13, 2021.

  1. BrianT

    BrianT Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Perth
    The gutter profile was slightly different between jk and heritage but I've shaped them to suit the line above gutter matches pretty good I'll take some close up pics

    the higher ridge is approximately 15mm off between rear jk roof panel and the heritage side panels , I'm guessing if I was to order all JK panels it might have been better but it's all hidden under Fiberglass roof so not too concerned

    I'm planning of dropping pop top roof back on and to see what clearance I have then make a 2nd frame at cut out which will be tied in to lower box frame then I'll put sheet metal from just above the window cutout where I have cut out rust up to inner frame so roof lining can be glued to it, the original was just pieces of wood stuck in from inner panel to Fiberglass (if that makes sense)
     
  2. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,529
    Location:
    newcastle
    Yeah that was what I was seeing;). Bottom edge good but lost it a bit as it moved to centre ridge. As you say ...it will hide under pop top base.
    What metal shape are you going to make the 2nd frame out of & how are you going to tie it into lower box frame?
    Really interested:).
    Cheers
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2021
  3. BrianT

    BrianT Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Perth
    Not 100% sure yet but think it will be 30mm x 30mm angle section and tied in with a curved box section at each end and 2 or 3 box braces down each side
     
  4. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,529
    Location:
    newcastle
    Thanks Brian.
    Curved box section also 30x30. OK. Braces same size?
    Talk with @rstucke as the compound curves on the front & rear box section bows are a special piece of detail;).
    Good fortune with the project:).
    Cheers
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2021
  5. BrianT

    BrianT Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Perth
    I've been studying the work @rstucke done to the roof and taking some ideas from that thread also :);)

    Cheers for the feedback hopefully I can keep the steady progress and get bodywork and roof sorted & into paint in the next 6-8months
     
    David H likes this.
  6. BrianT

    BrianT Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Perth
    Can't sit back admiring the roof repairs for too long time to get on with the rest of the rust repairs 9DA3F55D-DB99-49BA-A395-B1DF283725AB.jpeg DF1D5BD6-F738-484D-A621-D4C893BB4F18.jpeg 9221374E-2E6F-4C88-9C15-28EFF07451F4.jpeg 236C8D86-F13E-4AFD-981B-D15685B3F3D1.jpeg 2AEC25B4-46C5-44AD-ACB4-608C9E801629.jpeg 74E29A14-830D-49AC-BD1D-BE8B350C4A2C.jpeg
     
    Elsie 76, tintop, Barry and 3 others like this.
  7. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,547
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    Nice work.

    So a bit more rust than just the roof and it looks like it has been resprayed before - not so well judging by the large drips but I'm sure you will sort all that out.

    Just a quick question - have you tested the doors on yet to the front cab especially?

    Often after lots of roof rust repairs the openings warp and it is very difficult to get the doors to fit/ open/ close properly with even gaps. A member on here Bernie did this sort of repair to his mid 70's bay sopru and the doors would not fit at all anymore. He ended up scrapping the van. However he didnt have the amount of bracing that you used.
     
  8. BrianT

    BrianT Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Perth
    Yea took loads of measurements before I cut any of old sections out actually had to jack the right side forward to get gap's right before bracing & have test fitted doors before primer
    Yea has had several bits of repairs & paint work in its life so will be redoing all of it
     
    Syncro27 and David H like this.
  9. BrianT

    BrianT Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Perth
    Just waiting on the step to arrive for the cab and then the right side is rust free, Sat back on the roof base to get measurements for inner panel work 89D1B5BA-09B6-4393-9C2C-1EB5C02F2706.jpeg
     
    onetrackwonder likes this.
  10. BrianT

    BrianT Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Perth
    Out of curiosity has anyone done anything different with the front panel mainly the body join at bottom of panel it just seems to be an area they will be a pain to repair properly was considering taking the join out and welding a repair panel down on to bumper bar
    Basically cutting out all the section in red and having front panel run smooth to bottom F96E7343-4E11-4741-BE39-C89C413E2371.jpeg
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2021
    Syncro27 likes this.
  11. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,574
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    You mean getting rid of the fold line?

    Seen a split that had that done once.
    Weirdly, it sticks out like dogs proverbials.

    I would say it would detract from resale value if you give a toss about that.

    It did on the split.
    But that was back when a rotisseried split was $16k

    Apparently you couldn’t get the front panel or something in those days that
     
  12. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,529
    Location:
    newcastle
    For me it's very important to have ALL panel repairs like original so the 'lap' of this one ....whilst difficult ......is still worthwhile:):D.
    Cheers
     
  13. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,547
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    The early bays dont have the exposed joint there.

    Early bays like to rust though in the lower apron but I dont think that has anything to do with this joint - more age and windscreen rot letting rusty water down there.

    I think it would look better.
     
  14. BrianT

    BrianT Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Perth
    Some more rust repairs completed will eventually get rid of all the rust o_O:D
    050E845C-7E70-45A8-996C-B6CA4BB61D7C.jpeg 93FF1CB4-5EA2-4F5C-BA61-08C195538D29.jpeg 85BDA639-B17A-4B74-9F4D-08EF191DB718.jpeg 40E1652F-8DE9-484C-A570-5B5D93197D07.jpeg 6D2361CF-79B9-4AC8-8812-E248D1DF6D96.jpeg 2BA1BAFD-1FE3-434A-9B4B-9EBB27191D6D.jpeg 53989A8B-F3E8-4F37-8A1A-6C73B42A1109.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2021
  15. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,529
    Location:
    newcastle
  16. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,319
    Location:
    Seven hills
    @BrianT What did you decide on the front panel, in removing ridge or leaving? Looks like you are leaving.
     
  17. BrianT

    BrianT Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Perth
    Yea leaving the ridge was a bit more work but I think it's worth the effort
     
    Grantus likes this.
  18. BrianT

    BrianT Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Perth
    Some more work in progress pics
    EF9E3C19-FC23-4EFB-A465-AA6F2ED77CC2.jpeg 4741DF94-D736-4D50-9A24-A8B288C7B18D.jpeg A4EDA080-6486-4D54-A6F0-013B18DBA434.jpeg D79B4FDE-BDA2-4141-971E-7949A07E48F5.jpeg 8EEDF6FD-507E-4ECC-8125-5B546EB7BC1C.jpeg BFE107EE-0345-484D-A982-1718ACBEA635.jpeg BAC94E29-62A0-4678-92F0-6AC9DE6A118B.jpeg 988651FC-BC80-4A9C-9951-6AB7D8D61573.jpeg
    B9A0F8E7-1B58-4E82-ADDC-FE6CDEE63934.jpeg
     
  19. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,529
    Location:
    newcastle
    Hi Brian T,
    So it may be helpful after your repairs to these sections that you can get access to the inner part of the repair for your favourite rustproofing (fishoil!!)
    There are 3 plugs on the inside of your rear wheel arches that can be removed & that rustproofing sprayed into.
    Hand to under inner arch be the feel;). Feel for the plugs:p.
    That will protect the inside of what you've replaced & a lot of the bits you haven't;) & won't need to after protection:).
    http://forums.kombiclub.com/threads/76-sopru-old-boy.56558/page-11
    Cheers
     
    BrianT likes this.
  20. BrianT

    BrianT Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Perth
    I spotted them 3 plugs alright when doing that repair was considering some type of cavity wax alright like Waxoyl or similar when it's all done will take a look at fish oil as well, how does the fish oil stand up to heat I've seen some cars where the wax/oil starts to leak out trough drain holes in doors and underneath etc in hot weather
     

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