1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Maisie_the_kombi

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by BrianT, Apr 13, 2021.

  1. BrianT

    BrianT Member

    Messages:
    37
    Location:
    Perth
    The gutter profile was slightly different between jk and heritage but I've shaped them to suit the line above gutter matches pretty good I'll take some close up pics

    the higher ridge is approximately 15mm off between rear jk roof panel and the heritage side panels , I'm guessing if I was to order all JK panels it might have been better but it's all hidden under Fiberglass roof so not too concerned

    I'm planning of dropping pop top roof back on and to see what clearance I have then make a 2nd frame at cut out which will be tied in to lower box frame then I'll put sheet metal from just above the window cutout where I have cut out rust up to inner frame so roof lining can be glued to it, the original was just pieces of wood stuck in from inner panel to Fiberglass (if that makes sense)
     
  2. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,478
    Location:
    newcastle
    Yeah that was what I was seeing;). Bottom edge good but lost it a bit as it moved to centre ridge. As you say ...it will hide under pop top base.
    What metal shape are you going to make the 2nd frame out of & how are you going to tie it into lower box frame?
    Really interested:).
    Cheers
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2021
  3. BrianT

    BrianT Member

    Messages:
    37
    Location:
    Perth
    Not 100% sure yet but think it will be 30mm x 30mm angle section and tied in with a curved box section at each end and 2 or 3 box braces down each side
     
  4. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,478
    Location:
    newcastle
    Thanks Brian.
    Curved box section also 30x30. OK. Braces same size?
    Talk with @rstucke as the compound curves on the front & rear box section bows are a special piece of detail;).
    Good fortune with the project:).
    Cheers
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2021
  5. BrianT

    BrianT Member

    Messages:
    37
    Location:
    Perth
    I've been studying the work @rstucke done to the roof and taking some ideas from that thread also :);)

    Cheers for the feedback hopefully I can keep the steady progress and get bodywork and roof sorted & into paint in the next 6-8months
     
    David H likes this.
  6. BrianT

    BrianT Member

    Messages:
    37
    Location:
    Perth
    Can't sit back admiring the roof repairs for too long time to get on with the rest of the rust repairs 9DA3F55D-DB99-49BA-A395-B1DF283725AB.jpeg DF1D5BD6-F738-484D-A621-D4C893BB4F18.jpeg 9221374E-2E6F-4C88-9C15-28EFF07451F4.jpeg 236C8D86-F13E-4AFD-981B-D15685B3F3D1.jpeg 2AEC25B4-46C5-44AD-ACB4-608C9E801629.jpeg 74E29A14-830D-49AC-BD1D-BE8B350C4A2C.jpeg
     
    Elsie 76, tintop, Barry and 3 others like this.
  7. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,532
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    Nice work.

    So a bit more rust than just the roof and it looks like it has been resprayed before - not so well judging by the large drips but I'm sure you will sort all that out.

    Just a quick question - have you tested the doors on yet to the front cab especially?

    Often after lots of roof rust repairs the openings warp and it is very difficult to get the doors to fit/ open/ close properly with even gaps. A member on here Bernie did this sort of repair to his mid 70's bay sopru and the doors would not fit at all anymore. He ended up scrapping the van. However he didnt have the amount of bracing that you used.
     
  8. BrianT

    BrianT Member

    Messages:
    37
    Location:
    Perth
    Yea took loads of measurements before I cut any of old sections out actually had to jack the right side forward to get gap's right before bracing & have test fitted doors before primer
    Yea has had several bits of repairs & paint work in its life so will be redoing all of it
     
    Syncro27 and David H like this.
  9. BrianT

    BrianT Member

    Messages:
    37
    Location:
    Perth
    Just waiting on the step to arrive for the cab and then the right side is rust free, Sat back on the roof base to get measurements for inner panel work 89D1B5BA-09B6-4393-9C2C-1EB5C02F2706.jpeg
     
  10. BrianT

    BrianT Member

    Messages:
    37
    Location:
    Perth
    Out of curiosity has anyone done anything different with the front panel mainly the body join at bottom of panel it just seems to be an area they will be a pain to repair properly was considering taking the join out and welding a repair panel down on to bumper bar
    Basically cutting out all the section in red and having front panel run smooth to bottom F96E7343-4E11-4741-BE39-C89C413E2371.jpeg
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2021 at 2:12 PM
  11. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,448
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    You mean getting rid of the fold line?

    Seen a split that had that done once.
    Weirdly, it sticks out like dogs proverbials.

    I would say it would detract from resale value if you give a toss about that.

    It did on the split.
    But that was back when a rotisseried split was $16k

    Apparently you couldn’t get the front panel or something in those days that
     
  12. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,478
    Location:
    newcastle
    For me it's very important to have ALL panel repairs like original so the 'lap' of this one ....whilst difficult ......is still worthwhile:):D.
    Cheers
     

Share This Page