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Need help.

Discussion in 'Performance' started by Bron&Bill, Aug 20, 2012.

  1. Bron&Bill

    Bron&Bill New Member

    Messages:
    139
    Location:
    Taree
    [​IMG]

    This is the motor on my daughters beetle 1600, 1972 model. Do I need to reconnect the hoses that are missing and "plugged up"? Also when I put my hand behind the exhaust pipes one blows out stronger than the other. Any ideas on what it is. I drove it from Toronto to Taree last week and it ran ok until right near the end of the trip it started to splutter.
     
  2. vassy69SC

    vassy69SC Active Member

    Messages:
    995
    Location:
    Brisbane
    The engine is missing some of its tinware at the rear which will make it run hotter than normal.
    It is also good to have the fresh air hoses connected to the heater boxes for cooling as well. (black hoses in the pic)
    The pic below shows the hoses and you should be able to pick out the tinware that is missing.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Bron&Bill

    Bron&Bill New Member

    Messages:
    139
    Location:
    Taree
    Thanks that's a great help.
     
  4. vassy69SC

    vassy69SC Active Member

    Messages:
    995
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I should have mentioned in the previous post that you take the plugs out of the fan housing when you put the hoses on.
    Common sense I know but if VW's are a bit strange to anyone it can be a trick :)
     
  5. Bron&Bill

    Bron&Bill New Member

    Messages:
    139
    Location:
    Taree
    Haha yeah I got that much.
     
  6. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,330
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Are those manifold tubes blocked off, the small ones
     
  7. Bron&Bill

    Bron&Bill New Member

    Messages:
    139
    Location:
    Taree
    Yes. Why would they do that?
     
  8. DaisyGirl

    DaisyGirl Guest

    Saw this thread was titled Need Help - now, personally, I Need Help on a daily basis...just sayin'.
    Thought I had found a kindred spirit :cry:
    However hope it's a joyous thing that you are doing - Liss
     
  9. vassy69SC

    vassy69SC Active Member

    Messages:
    995
    Location:
    Brisbane
    They have stopped the hot air from the exhaust pre-heating the manifold. It's not a great idea but in your case will require another manifold as they butchered that one. I am about to get the one on my son's beetle working properly again to help the carb run better.
     
  10. Bron&Bill

    Bron&Bill New Member

    Messages:
    139
    Location:
    Taree
    So from just looking at it I need to reconnect the two hoses on the sides ( I don't know all the technical names) the small hose which leads into the outlet next to the oil filler and the manifold needs reconnecting to the bottom or replaced? Is that all so far that you can see?
     
  11. matberry

    matberry Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Cooroy near Noosa
    Most important is the rear tinware and having all the spaces/holes filled that allow hot air from under the engine being drawn into the engine bay.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. matberry

    matberry Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Cooroy near Noosa
    wow pics are hard here.....if you can see it, the rear piece is the one closest to the camera. :)
     
  13. Bron&Bill

    Bron&Bill New Member

    Messages:
    139
    Location:
    Taree
    You guys are awesome. Thanks.
     
  14. Bron&Bill

    Bron&Bill New Member

    Messages:
    139
    Location:
    Taree
    So have reconnected all of the pipes and put in the tinware. When I took the lid off the air cooler(?) that sits on top of the engine it was full of oil. I'm guessing this is not a good thing. What should I do?
     
  15. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,358
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Thats ok . It catches the dust. been a while since i had 1600 so Ill leave details re levels to those who know. dont panic

    col
     
  16. Bron&Bill

    Bron&Bill New Member

    Messages:
    139
    Location:
    Taree
    Thanks. Panic over lol
     
  17. Abby.75

    Abby.75 Member

    Messages:
    291
    Location:
    Adelaide
    As a Beetle owner I don't know the levels either :wtf: :umm: All I do know is once it's in there you never have to worry about it really.... I've never even known a mechanic to change it.... although they may hav done and just not told me :lol: The previous owner of Sophie used to check the level as religiously as the enging oil.... but unless you tip the car upsid down it can't come out....

    Abby.75 I think Sophie is laughing at my ignorance....!
     
  18. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,358
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Think theres a level mark pressed into the container. usualy clean it when theres a lot of build up on the mesh or a layer of sludge in the oil. Think its just ordinary engine oil

    col
     
  19. kool_kombi 79

    kool_kombi 79 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    380
    Location:
    Brisbane

    The pressed metal line around the bottom side of the air cleaner is the level.
     
  20. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,586
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    There is a red line inside the air cleaner that you fill oil to.


    mmm, few things missing from that motor...
    -running a H30/31 carb on a "AD" code dual port 1600
    -running a 009

    It will have much more poke,no flat spots or gutlessness higher in revs, run cooler, better fuel economy with a 34 pict 3 and running a quality version of 043905205 dizzy(SVDA).

    -vac port blocked for warm air flap/thermostat control at the air cleaner snout- disconnected..
    -warm air ducting missing from #2 cylinder area to air cleaner
    -breather pipe missing
    - inlet manifold pre-heater pipes cut
    -rear breast plate missing
    -heater ducts disconnected
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2012

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