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Oil Change Type 4 with pics

Discussion in ''How To' & 'Handy Hints'' started by felixqld66, Nov 19, 2007.

  1. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    22,222
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Know the sump kit for the 1600 Type 3 I: got from Mick Motors had the brass "crush"washer :), 2 gaskets & the 6 brass washers for the dome nuts that hold the plate on - $2.00 I think.
    Crush washer I believe is universal but seems to be harder to find as a single unit.

    I also recall that some suppliers are replacing the cruch washer with a solid one as here - https://www.thebusstop.com.au/1968–...ngine-68-79/Oil-Change-Gasket-set-1700-2000cc
    [​IMG]
     
  2. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    22,222
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Reason one gasket each side is becasue the stainer base (as no doubt you have found) is very flexible/flimsy and bends easy so you have to ensure you get the edge as flat as possible and then the 2 seals ensure leaks prevented/minimised.

    [​IMG]
     
    Gordon D likes this.
  3. Gordon D

    Gordon D Active Member

    Messages:
    272
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I posted this on another thread and just realised I meant to do it here. A mate of mine, who has rebuilt other motors (not VWs), suggested that the first oil after the rebuild should be lighter (like a 10W-50) to get a good flow around the block, get everything lubricated, run a few 100k's gently for the run in/lubrication/cleaning and then drop that oil (as you would anyway) for the post run-in oil change. After that, load it with the Penrite 20w-60 for proper running. Has anyone done that ... or think it would be worth doing?
     
  4. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,144
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Getting recommendations on oil is a can of worms Gordon. Everyone has an opinion and they all differ.

    Personally, I used Penrite 10Tenths running in mineral oil 15W40 for the first 1,000 km. Alternatively, you could probably just use a relatively cheap oil and change it after 500 km, 1000 km, whatever you feel is best. If your engine was just rebuilt by someone else, then I suggest you stick with their recommendation otherwise if there’s problems with the engine they can point to your choice of oil as the problem.

    https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/10 TENTHS RUNNING-IN OIL 15W-40 (Mineral).pdf

    I don’t see 10W50 as a “lighter” oil. At operating temperature it has the same viscosity as a 50 weight oil, which is at the top end of the range for an air cooled VW engine. Yes, it’s lighter than 20W60. However, some would say 50 weight is correct, particularly on a worn engine. But there’s also a school of thought that a 30 weight oil (e.g. 10W30 etc) is correct, and 50 weight oil is not a lighter oil in that context. Also, some swear that mineral oils are a must, others swear that synthetics are the best. All you can do is do your research and make your own decision. But I suggest you stick with your engine builder’s recommendation in the first instance.
     
    Gordon D likes this.
  5. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,253
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Second Mr Beckstars post on all points.
    The 10tenths has high zinc and no friction modifiers.
    Have you searched start up procedures?
    My choice is the one where plugs out and crank over to build pressure, replace plugs, start up and check everything not loose or leaking, timing correct, warm up a bit then 20-30 minutes at 2500-3000 rpm to work cam and followers.
    Maybe change oil. ?
    Then within first 100km do a few hot loaded acceleration runs to bed rings.
    Change oil at 500km.

    Seems to be the consensus by a number of respected motor builders.
     
    Gordon D likes this.

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