I don't know if it is mellow yellow but on another chart for 74 it is the only colour similar listed .The only other which is a 75 colour is riverina orange which you never know when the colours came out.
Went shopping today 8 liters of thinners 4 litres of prepsol 4 liters high build undercoat 2 liters of super etch primer But before I get to do any more work on the Kombi the wagon needs a new turbo. So hopefully that won’t take long ( a new turbo core arrived this week) then I can get to work sanding
Alright getting a bit behind schedule so roped in some child labor today I just hope he doesn’t thing the SAABs need a bit of a sand as well
Hopefully he won’t tell his little brother so I’ll get a few more years out of them yet Their big sister moved to Sydney before she got a chance to warn them
A Tip for anybody doing this or other things like this is if you clamp a piece of copper, brass, ally behind in the track you won't have to grind the backside just a little file up, as the weld won't stick to Non-Ferrous Metal and will give a flat surface on the backside. A little late for SAABMAN, but may help somebody in the future.
well in th eprocess of sanding and stuff I decided I wasnt real happy with the way th egutter worked out on the corner of the roof I replaced - there was a pin hole in it and the finish was rather rough - which doesnt generally bother me (I aint no perfectionist) but I figguered there was a good chance water would sit in the gutter and cause major problems down the track. In some cleaning up recently I found a stick of plumbers solder and Id heard about this lead wiping business so since soldering is my bread and butter Id exchange a fine tip soldering iron and microscope for a stick of solder and a blow torch This is what I had to start with as you can see its some what uneven... the tools I had to work with and what I ended up with I tidied it up a littel after the pic was taken but on the whole it worked out pretty well - it filled in a couple of pin holes and the depressions so now water wont sit there and eat the gutter away.
Alright it took me a couple of goes to get it work and yep the molten solder just ran straight down the drain
Well I wasn’t going to go too far with the interior the hood lining wasn’t too bad just needed a good clean and if live with the odd tear and I don’t want to pull the dash out but..... kombis set their own level of reconstruction But I think I have one side just about ready to prime
Are there any repairs in enamel still present. ? ie, beware lacquer over air dry enamel. Although I expect you are well aware by now. With the amount of small woofs indicated I wouldn't rely on acrylic high build primer. A prime with 2 pack epoxy would be good then a skim coat of fine finishing bog ( dolphin glaze runny version or evercoat gold is cheaper in 4kg) will seal everything and give a uniform surface for blocking. If using lacquer system ( assuming hollows are less than a mm ) I would etch then prime and allow to shrink fully then use spray putty. Much easier to get a build and much easier to sand flat. Personally don't like the high build primer in lacquer for building as its hard to sand, takes ages to dry sufficiently, has tendency to crack even when dried what seems a reasonable period. A pretend 2 pack high fill. Still ok to use mixed as a primer. Protec 'car master' range is good for primer and putty. Perform 90% as good as ppg or DuPont. Half the price at around $55 per 4l can. Lesser brands can make hard work. Usualy need about 5-10% thinners in the putty to get it through a 2mm nozzle. Allow at least 15 min flash off between coats. Need a2.5mm setup or low pressure putty gun to spray unthinned, which is correct method. Bigger drum of GP thinners works out cheaper and you will need it. Varies from $80 to $120 per 20 litre drum so worth chasing prices. Avoid supercheap type GP . dries too fast. Ask paint shop for one that has some bite and useable as a lacquer thinner.
Thanks for that Col. I’ve got wagon paints etch primer and Spartan 1k primer filler. I’ve been visiting an automotive paint supplier in Canberra and followed their advice and suggestions to date. I’ve been sanding all the enamel paint of the repair sections - thankfully it’s a slightly darker shade than the original paint so I can see when it disappears. I had been looking at the lumpy ness and thinking I might need some more intimate time with the sanding block
Something worse that comes to mind is how to best deal with the paint inside the air vents. In my other Kombi it was all in good shape and was easy to clean up and paint over but this one it’s flaking off so needs some serious attention. The only solution I e come to so far us to hit it with the sandblaster
To do the painful air vents on the SC, I brushed on the gel type paint stripper. Unlike me, avoid ANY contact with skin........
Is the engine still in situ? The flaking paint will be from respray without prep so should come off "relatively" easily. All relative tho One option.. If engine still in place remove the foam engine seal and wrap engine securely to protect it. Aluminium and magnesium probably affected by most paint strippers. Try the oven cleaner trick first. Mainly due to it being in an aerosol can and convenient. Shouldn't affect factory paint. Firm bristle engine cleaning brush may help but cleaner and striper is likely to soften bristles fairly rapidly. Flush well then use metho to dry seams then wax n grease remover and blow well with compressed air. Sandblaster should also remove crap paint and clean area effectively
Yep engine is out so I took to it with the sandblaster today It’s the first time I’ve used it. Took a little bit to get it set right but it took maybe 15mins to clean the area out to an acceptable level and leave a nice clean finish
But if a significant point in the project today Dug our the spray gun fired up the compressor put my spray “booth” back together and
