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PDSIT 32/34 jetting...

Discussion in 'Fuel System & Electrics' started by Schmoburger, Jan 21, 2008.

  1. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Am having problems locating any new jets :( The two local motorcycle places that stock Mikuni jest don;t have the sizes of main jet I'm looking for. The Air Correction jet was a non-starter as the ones they have are are different thread and head :cry:

    So, can anyone point me in the direction of a website that ay sell them? I've tried Micks Motors, but no joy.

    On a postive note, the carbs are at least air balanced now. Fuel balancing is a bit tricky at the moment as the idle is fluctuating and I can';t get a decent reading on the tacho. It's bouncing between 250 and 400 rpm on both banks :wtf: but at least it's consitent between the two :umm:
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2010
  2. Doc

    Doc Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,904
    Location:
    Gunnedah
    Hey Emby just to through a spanner in the works with a nice idle ..........I couldn't get Myf to idle smoothly but had everything "balanced" new SVDA arrived from the states and suddenly smooth as silk .......all this time I had a crook dizzy. Its a Kombi.
     
  3. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Cheers Doc. That's slowly been a rising thought in the back of my mind :( At least I knew that the carbs had never been touched so thought I'd get them right first. My thought process is at least get the carbs right first, then I can eliminate them from being the culprit, plus I'll have a decent set of working carbs.

    As for the dizzy. Did you get the one from CIP1? They don't seem to be on there anymore.

    I wonder if there's a simple elimination test I can perform to see if it's the dizzy? Can you plug the can and the carb and not use the vac advance on the 205P dizzy just to set the idle to see if it's stable?

    As an aside, the guy that built the carbs was trying to tell me that, inspite of the idea about vacuum advance and retard Bosch never really got it right with the carbs and dizzy and that a 009 was a better match :eek:
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2010
  4. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,545
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Typical 90's logic IMO for those who never understood the original SVDA function. They can be rebuilt, don't throw that original bus dizzy away as the replacement SVDA's have a BEETLE advance curve, not a Type IV bus one. The 009 has the advance curve for a GOVERNED VW INDUSTRIAL MOTOR SET TO RUN AT A GOVERNED SPEED OR IDLE.

    On another note, Australia never really got their VW repair industry right either with comments from mugs like that above ruining our vans in the short and long term....My faith in them stopped 15 years ago when I found my first stash of factory data.....then applied it....There is unfortunately a minority who are doing the right thing(this should be a majority).
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2010
  5. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    When the guy said that to me that's what set my thought pattern in motion that all was not well with the carbs. I've since torn them back down and reset throttle plates and checked all the bits.

    One thing I checked yesterday was the squirt from the accelerator pumps. It turns out one of the plastic nuts on the thread had been broken adn it was fixed with a split pin thrugh a hole. I checked the volume. 10 squirts into a jar and then poured the contents of the jar into the only thing I had which was a plastic measuring spoon that measured 7.5mm. Each of the jets seem to be depositing what I'm estimating to be about 17mm (two spoons and a bit), so 1.7mm per squirt. Seems a bit higher than the .9mm. Only bloody problem is now..I can't adjust it. Looks like I'm back looking for spare parts again :cry:
     
  6. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,545
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Those plastic bits are in fact bushings for the push rods. 1700 carbs didn't have them(were like glorified type 3 carbs). The push rods had a brass nut on the end....see below...

    [​IMG]

    yes, it's new if you were going to ask that...


    From what you are saying in regard to the accelerator pump volumes, you may have accelerator pump thermostats. They sound like they are defective too as your pumps are delivering too much fuel.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2010
  7. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    That picture is like the pump on my 1800 carbs on my other bus.....which is still in Birdsville ....aaarrgggh. I can see now that I'm gonna have get back up there and get it. I only had for spares and thought it would be good to get it running for a laugh. Now it looks like I need it back for the spares again :lol:

    The carbs in the Birdsville bus had thermostatic valves. This one doesn't. I note from your Resurrection thread that you sourced some new valves. These carbs just have a bolt in the body at the end of the main jet. Can these be swapped over on this model carb, and if so have you got any friendly parts suppliers you may know who has some? [This pigs ear ear will be a silk purse]

    Just to check. When you pump the acceleartor pump, it is a full pump isn't it? I mean, pump till throttle fully open? What's the issues I will have with these pumnping too much fuel? Will it be flooding the carb when I start her up in the morning? (no chokes yet remember) and result in bad fuel economy? Or do these pumps only deliver that extra bit of fuel at times like gear changes?
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2010
  8. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,545
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    With those carbs you have, there should be 2 bolts in each of the float bowls, the small 13mm bolt for the bowl drain/main jet access and the 17mm bolt where the thermostat would go. If you have the 17mm bolt, it is drilled to Bypass excess fuel permanently, so just adjust the pump volume to 0.9cc. The thermostats are unobtainable and hard to find in working order, so 0.9mm is a compromise between hot/cold running and also the spec for the non thermostat carbs. You could even stretch it back to 0.7cc(2Lmax hot running vol)l but I have found that little extra on is just that little bit smoother when you don't have the thermostats(or have to bypass them when they have failed)and regularly encounter cool weather. Carbs are calibrated with full pumps x10(manual says x5, but easier for my brain fade, as long as you don't run it out of fuel!!:eek: ). If you have the thermostats, you need to know what position they are in so you know which volume to adjust.

    Do your accelerator pumps not look like those above, maybe they are 1700 linkages... you cannot use the later linkages as they clip together into plastic eyelets(hence the barb on the end of the rod) which will probably be no longer there on your throttle shafts...

    This is what I use to calibrate my pumps... It holds the choke open while the tube is pushed onto the pump nozzle. This enables you to pump cleanly and achieve accurate results without several sets of hands trying to do everything at once...

    VW119 as per factory manual...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2010
  9. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Awww...don't you just hate it when someone shows you a new tool that you don't have :cry:

    I bet you've got one Doc. LOL

    This is the right hand carb accelerator fuel pump...

    [​IMG]

    And this is the left that has been "doctored"

    [​IMG]

    At the back of the float bowls I only have one bolt covering the main jet. This one here

    [​IMG]

    Sorry it's not clearer, but it's the best I can do whilst they're bolted on
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2010
  10. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,545
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    You have miles too much of a pump stroke on that left carb... Later linkages need to be found and used... Yay(sarcastic tone:rolleyes: ) you have the non thermostat carb bodies..... there should be bleed holes in the bottom of the accelerator pump recess(with pump removed) to bleed back into the float bowl(as per all of them, but the later ones bled into the thermostat cavity). Make sure they are not blocked. Right accelerator pump linkage looks better... I don't think they are adjustable from memory, I use the later linkages...
     
  11. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Oh whoopee....more things to go on the list :rolleyes: :lol:

    Now about Webers and Kadrons ............... :lol: :D
     
  12. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    EFI and a turbo then? :lol:
     
  13. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
  14. BargeArse

    BargeArse Active Member

    Messages:
    2,415
    Location:
    Ebbw Vale, QLD
    I had no luck with those links, Matt. :umm:
     
  15. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,006
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD

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