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Restoration Plan - 76 Bay - comments welcome!

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by DanSA, May 20, 2014.

  1. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,411
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Das resto parts or even mick motors for panels . I don't know any place in SA that sell vw panels that would help you out.
     
  2. kalamunda

    kalamunda Member

    Messages:
    59
    Location:
    Bridgeman Downs, Qld
    Love the look of your kombi Dan, I am in process of doing some work on same model myself.

    A kangaroo-bull bar may cover it until you panel beat it out or replace the panel ? With a spare tyre carried on it of course :)

    I hope you do not mind if I use the photo of your over cabin roof rack to make one myself ?

    My recent purchase. I find one step at a time my best option.
    Keeps the car on the road.
    werribeeday1cropped.jpg IMG_6041.JPG
     
  3. DanSA

    DanSA Active Member

    Messages:
    486
    Location:
    Adelaide Hills
    ^^Thanks kala, but took the bull bar off when we bought it due to weight and steering feel, wouldn't go back now.^^

    I went and took Percy to see Rob at AHP today. We spent some time going over the 2 main areas, and discussing a plan. Decided to take peoples advice and make it a rolling resto, dealing with one are at a time so he's on the road as much as possible and useful. (plus less risk of becoming an unfinishable job)

    Rob recons the sliding door and rear arch he'll be able to panel beat out, cavity wax and paint. The nose he was 50/50, but we decided to buy a new panel to save on labour costs and so that we know its all fresh metal. Will also buy the lower corner repair panels just in case, plus new windscreen and seal, plus sliding door seal.

    Hes happy with me doing most of the removal and refit, with them sticking to what they do best (paint and panel)

    Was refreshing as usual to see some great cars in the shop - Series 1 E Type Jag, 2CV and another local Kombi having very similar work to me on the front using the same panel supplier so i know it fits well.

    Exciting!

    Will also take dash out while we are doing it and blast it and repaint, plus local paint repair to front floor panels. Stay tooned...

    Can't wait to finally be able to fit the VW badge to the nose that I have had for 3 years and can't put on due to deformed panel.
     
    68BUS, Miss Rosie, David H and 2 others like this.
  4. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,362
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    All sounds good.
     
  5. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,562
    Location:
    newcastle
    Hi Dan,
    Young family, old camper. Keep it on the road. Like the guys above say. If you want the Citroen I reckon the kids won't remember their time in it. You're creating memories for them & have a unique opportunity to do that for them. (mine...paint house or take kids to beach....which will they remember?)
    Don't take it off the road. Eat the elephant 'one bite at a time'. Most of what I see is small 'cosmetic' as the Club responses say.
    Do what's do-able. Tidy up when you can & where you can.
    Enjoy your time with your family/kombi/kids whilst you can. It's a 'one off opportunity' & when you get old & have some spare bits make it 'concourse' & waste the kids inheritance as you'll never get back the money you spend but it will look great & remind you of your time raising your kids & Kombi camping. And one of those kids with those Kombi Camping memories will want the concourse old car (that's what's happening here)!
    Yours is a v.good kombi that just needs a little 'love money'. Don't chase too far.
    Bus Stop & JK both good for panels.
    I'm with 68bus. The front seems to be a roo bar push in & your beater can push out. The roof just needs some rust convert & protection (paint) & the panels (door/wheel arch) look fixable. Maybe $5K & kombi on!
    Cheers,
    David H
     
  6. 77/kombi/surfer

    77/kombi/surfer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,979
    Location:
    Budgewoi N.S.W. AUSTRALIA
    Those side panels look lime they have been dented and filled with bog and painted before as its swelling up and cracking due to moisture an movement.
    If so most panel beaters should be able to run a strip disc over it to remove the boged areas back to bare metal.
    Then youll see if new metal is needed if its hiding rust.
    If so , see if anyone is can cut out the same areas out of kombi wreck and get your panel beater to weld them in.
    Nothing beats the original metal with curves and pressing to refit back again.
    As for the front panel, it looks like only dented.
    My local panel beater would press that back out and shrink and stretch the metal back to its original shape.
    The black front clip repo panels are crap qaulity an will cost you around $3/4k to swap it over.
    As for the roof id strip the paint back to bare metal and have it painted again in two pac paint at around $800 to do it.
    Its a pretty straight forward fix for anyone with the skills in panel beating and painting.
     
    Syncro27 likes this.
  7. DanSA

    DanSA Active Member

    Messages:
    486
    Location:
    Adelaide Hills
    Starting to pull the dash out for repainting while the nose is done. This surely has to be one of the worst stereo 'installations' ever done?? Maybe he was a butcher??

    Before:
    [​IMG]

    And underneath:

    [​IMG]

    Will be patching this with new metal before respraying.

    Any recomendations for black paint finish for the dash? Seem to be a crackle matt effect?
     
  8. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,362
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Probably as cheap to buy a good second hand dash if you can find one.
    Prices shouldnt be stupid on them
    'yet'? $ 50?

    Worth pulling the whole dash n stripping to clean metal then get the panel shop to spray it with a similar texture paint or the other version is a smooth satin black.
    There are also two different textures . probably year dependent.
    Get a price anyway.

    If you want to do it yourself then there may be suitable effects in engine coatings with aerosol cans but not cheap .

    Good clean dash lifts the interior so worth getting right
     
  9. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,565
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    Wow that is a massive butcher job.

    Ian (Tin Bits) was selling a couple of these recently that were in good condition but he is in QLD - not sure if he will post though.
     
  10. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,562
    Location:
    newcastle
    Hi Dan,
    Small steps. Dash looks like it could do with a bigger stereo/cover plate to hide the butchers work or some infill metal! Was a spare on Gumtree this arvo. Top f'c'd but face good . In NSW
    My Dash, http://forums.kombiclub.com/threads/76-sopru-resto.54261/
    Reckon p/beater can fix cheaper than replacement! Drop whole dash out & plate.
    Cheers,
    David H
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2016
  11. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    22,222
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Even before reading your comments I thought what a butchered job on the head install. Texas Chainsaw type butcher :eek:
    Ask around some member may have a better looking ashtray without holes drilled in it - will look tidier ;)
     
  12. DanSA

    DanSA Active Member

    Messages:
    486
    Location:
    Adelaide Hills
    Thanks guys.

    I'm planning on pulling it out and getting them to patch it up with new metal before getting it resprayed. Does anyone have a picture of the std VW cutout? Assume it may have had some ribs/pressing to give some rigidity? Otherwise Ill just get them to match the std DIN dimensions to suit. EDIT: Have seen David's but if anyone has an OEM picture, that would be great.

    Will also get the ashtray holes filled too - that's where the rudimentary Kombi fan was mounted by the previous owner...

    David - great thread, thanks :) Love the dash :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2016
  13. Ben49

    Ben49 Active Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Canberra
    Hi Dan, Gee - I thought my dash was bad. I don't have an OEM picture but my dash has been 'modified' and there was a strengthening fold on the top and left side of the radio aperture and I assume on the right and bottom too but they had been cut away.

    I'm fixing the rust problem in the windscreen surround and found that, as part of a previous repair, my dash had been welded and bogged to the body of the vehicle. Had to cut it out with the cut-off tool. I patched various holes and did some gentle panel beating here and there but for the radio aperture I glued in a new panel using Tarzan's Grip Mega Bond (yep). I glued a 6mm washer to each corner of the patch first (inside) to act as a lip for extra support. The new panel is a fairly close fit and I ran the glue into the gap all round and let it set overnight (masking tape over the back).

    Why glue? That dash metal is really thin and I've only got a cheap gasless mig welder: they run hotter than the gas types and I'm an amateur - I'd blow lots of holes in that dash. Here's the thing: I drilled the spindle holes and cut out the aperture for the radio using an air-operated cut-off tool with the patch glued in place. I gave the metal plenty of cooling-off time but it held fine.

    I wiped everything down with wax and grease remover and gave it a couple of coats of Rust-oleum 2X Flat Black.

    The paint highlights any faults - I should have spent more time prepping some spots but overall, while not ideal, it's a great improvement.


    Fitting the patch.
    DSCI0204.JPG


    The radio's fascia covers the seam - just. I had about 2mm all-round to play with.
    DashPaint2.JPG

    Looks good - the few battle-scars in the foreground give it character, I think. :rolleyes:
    DashPaint3.JPG
     
    DanSA likes this.
  14. DanSA

    DanSA Active Member

    Messages:
    486
    Location:
    Adelaide Hills
    Thanks mate - looks great - good job :)

    Did some probing to see what was under the surface rust, not too bad i think??

    Cab Floor inside:

    [​IMG]

    Sliding Door and arch:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. DanSA

    DanSA Active Member

    Messages:
    486
    Location:
    Adelaide Hills
    Think I can say I have officially kicked this off!
    Booked in next week at the panel shop to make a start on the front and Sliding Door.

    Also ordered new OEM Sliding Window for the Door from Roy at The Bus Stop to replace the louvred permanently open set up - kids will be happy! New wiper handles, door pull, Windscreen seal also on way.
    Next on list is door cards and dynamat for reinstallation...

    Plan now is to do the front end, front cab up to the seats. Down the track, I'll do the Cab doors, with new glass seals and paint. Then rear tailgate.
    Lit bits..

    No turning back now :)
     
  16. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,562
    Location:
    newcastle
    Hi Dan,
    Great you've started on the resto before it becomes a bigger job! Sliding door & arch looks 'easier' than front floor but at least there are no holes yet. I had a few that my salt laden (been to the beach) sheepdog helped along.

    Excellent plan & so do-able.

    Gee...didn't notice you still had original louvres. The kids will be happy. You're in SA not QLD!
    Have you got a price for the front repair? Just a bit interested as this is where my resto started.

    I'm pleased you've made a commitment to the resto & have a plan but your wallet may not be as pleased!:)

    Cheers & may it go well,
    David H
     
  17. DanSA

    DanSA Active Member

    Messages:
    486
    Location:
    Adelaide Hills
    @Ben49 Re your stereo.
    It looks like the patch plate you have put in is for the original stereo size, not the common DIN that most stereos are now. Are you going to be installing a retro radio?

    I ask as Im thinking the same. It would give the guys more metal to play with to fix up the mess, plus I think it would top off the dash. We only need FM radio and maybe a rear input for iDevice. I like the way they are a bit smaller, and it also should mean a simpler instal as most of the new ones are too long and hit the air vent pipe at the back.
    Interested to hear your thoughts.

    Looking at something similar to this;
    http://www.retrosoundusa.com.au/index.php?l=product_list&c=209
     
  18. Ben49

    Ben49 Active Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Canberra
    Yes Dan, that's exactly the one I'm installing - the Model Two. It does everything but serve the drinks. (It may be overkill but if I read the instructions ...). The fascia and knobs are purchased separately to suit the look of the vehicle - the knobs are pleasantly weighty.

    These radios are light and small - the body's about half a hand-span both ways - too small to support more than one electrical socket on the back: thus all the cables ... which will make a real rat's-nest unless I take my time and install everything neatly.

    I bought a dash-mountd USB and 3.5mm extension cable through eBay. The radio provides for two USB inputs but I can't see myself using more than one.

    I bought four 6.5" Polk DB652 speakers to replace the el-cheapos in the doors and under the R&R bed and thought about adding a couple of crossovers: bass in the back, treble in the front but decided that was just being silly, all things considered.

    Radio2.JPG

    Not a great pic but you get the idea. The 'pushbuttons' are microswitches.
    Radio1.JPG

    A single USB and Aux input is probably enough.
    Radio3.JPG


    Unlikely to be installing it today ...
    Radio4.JPG
     
    DanSA likes this.
  19. DanSA

    DanSA Active Member

    Messages:
    486
    Location:
    Adelaide Hills
    Thanks Ben - great minds think alike I see :) ? Im thinking of using a powered antenna too, to save drilling holes in the newly painted nose and to stop it getting damaged from trees etc.

    Be interested to hear how you find it. I read on another thread about possible issues with AM reception as its from the US, but I'll only be using FM & Aux in. What sort of output does it put out? I'm not after anything huge, but we have the speakers under the bed like yours and in the doors.
    EDIT: Stop being lazy Dan, looked up specs to clarify inputs and outputs:
    From their site:
    General
    Dimensions (radio face & push-buttons only)3.5”W x 1.5” H x 1.05” D
    Dimensions (radio body)3.96”W x 1.98”H x 4.30”D
    Power Requirements10.5-14.4 volts
    Current Consumption (during operation)Max. 15A
    Current Consumption (car off)<3.5 ma="" td="">
    Output Power (@ 14.4 volts @ 4 ohm @ 1% THD)25x4 watts RMS 45x4 Max Power
    Output Impedance4-8ohm
    Low Level Output (4 channels)2.85 volts
    AUX 1 Input (AUX cable length, 8”)>300 mV / 6 kΩ
    AUX 2 Input (AUX cable length, 8”)>300 mV / 6 kΩ
    USB 1 Input(USB cable length, 40”) 5V (USB female input)
    USB 2 Input (USB cable length, 40”)5V (USB female input)


    Lastly, did you buy direct or locally?

    Great help mate - thanks heaps.

    PS: Your underdash looks like mine, only a lot shinier.. :)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2016
  20. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,094
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Australian AM broadcasts in increments of 9kHz, whereas the US is in increments of 10kHz, so AM radios from the US don't work here.

    Some have a setting ability to change from 10 to 9. ;)
     

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